The Moon 8·20·09

First off I want to say that I’ve been hiding on an island off the coast of Maine all summer with very limited internet connectivity and as such have not been updating this site daily…but have been trying to retroactively get shots up whenever possible. I’ll be back in SB next week and all will be back to order, yeah! The moon is doing her thing and the tides are crazy high. The swell is building, you can feel it rumbling over the horizon, and though the ocean is crazy flat and there is not a speck of wind it is definitely the calm before the all-too-real-storm…Hurricane Bill is scheduled to push some surf up this way right in time for a proper send off. They’re calling for 4-6ft swell @ 16seconds for saturday morning…which around these parts means a solid headhigh…building to 6-8ft by evening…we’ll probably surf the secret spots around here and then hit the road early sunday heading north towards Canada as the swell builds to 14-18ft…which would blow out the local spots and will make a few northern outer reefs come to life…and so I end this post with a quote by Margo in one of my favorite surf flicks…”I’m just frothing mate, I’m that excited, I’ve got butterflies and all those funny twitches in my stomach”!

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