Archives

True Friendship 7·27·13

Get ready to be inspired!

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At ease 6·5·12

I will take refuge in the shadow of your wings

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Giddyup 6·4·12

you are understood…

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of focus off focus 5·22·12

Be playful always smile think 4yourself love others give thanks

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Wind swell 5·15·12

Making the most of a little wind chop…

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Ostrich 5·13·12

My head’s been in the sand, time to get it back into the living water…

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Nip and Tuck 2·11·12

A doctor’s visit to the green room for a little nip and tuck!

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Go find what you seek 2·8·12

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Salty Afternoon 2·7·12

 Go Go Go…Fun Fun Fun

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Almost Cut My Hair 1·31·12

YEwwwwwwwww…..frothing! Brought to you by Ryan Lovelace

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Swell’ing 1·18·12

Alone in blue grey flight, lost and found in dwindling light, cutting back and off again, alone into the blue grey night

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Towards Clarity 1·17·12

Draw a line across the canvas and make it yours

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YEWWWWWWW 1·16·12

Home sweet home!

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Smiles for miles… 11·19·12

You know its a good day by all the smiles in the lineup! Super clean and fun and big at 6am, but as my buddy said, you’re either a surfer or a photographer, but you can’t do both… and he’s right, by the time the camera was out post sesh, the magic was gone! …but […]

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Godspeed DT 10·23·12

You shaped boards, culture, style, and many a surfer.  We are indebted to you uncle Takayama! Continue to RIP & Godspeed! Photo: borrowed from Glenn Sakamoto/Liquid Salt

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Stoke’ologist 10·22·12

I love seeing people smile when they are surfing…it’s funny how so many of us forget that we are supposed to be having fun. Surf, smile, laugh! See you out there.

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Do what you love 10·18·12

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Clarity 10·17·12

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Bird’s eye view 10·15·12

Do you prefer the larger photo format?  Or do you like the smaller ones (see below). Have a great day!

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Sunset Set 10·13·12

“Don’t ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive and then go do that. Because what the world needs is people who have come alive.” Howard Thurman

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Between two views 9·11·12

“Always Do Right. This Will Gratify Some People And Astonish The Rest.” Mark Twain, 1901 Surf Check = small, empty, keep looking

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Solo 9·10·12

    Early morning ankle peelers are good for the soul

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Red White & Blue 9·6·12

In God we Trust!

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Under the lip 9·5·12

A fleeting moment

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Double reflection session 9·3·12

Took this way pixelated and too dark iphone shot on the way back from a fun roadtrip south to catch the dying south swell, which it turns out was not really dying, and we found some super crowded but fun walls.  It’s a single exposure but has a double reflection in it…sometimes the lesson is […]

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Gordo 8·24·12

No surf was had today…but here is a recent painting I did for some dear friends. Am rebuilding my art website…check it out here www.geoffreyravenhill.com

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South Swell Surprise 8·23·12

  Time to get back to my roots and daily shoots, triple sessions and self reflections, a truck, a camera, quivers and wetsuits…bring on the NW swells… Seas the day!

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El’Cap 2·14·12

Make the most of every opportunity…

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Reflecting on 2011 12•30•11

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Surfysign 11•27•11

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Sailor’s delight 11•10•11

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Venus 11•9•11

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Let’s play 11•8•11

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Grom 11•7•11

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Cold Winds 11•5•11

…taken with a plastic camera.

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Storm’s a comin’ 11·4·11

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Hollywoodland 11•3•11

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Building momentum 11·2·11

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Close out, everything must go! 11·1·11

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Kustom 10•26•11

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Chicas y olas 10•20•11

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Epic rincon 10•18•11

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Beach day! 10·17·11

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Dad’s day…In Remembrance of Thee 2011 10·13·11

Today is the 14 yr anniversary of my dad passing away…am stoked to spend the day with my bro and sister, in remembrance of him. Hopefully today will also include a few waves in his honor at the Con. How crazy is it that we spend so much time honoring and morning the lost, but […]

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Full moon session anybody? 10·12·11

A glorious sunset last night…

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Live simply 10·11·11

A man is rich in proportion to the number of things which he can afford to let alone

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Winter Storms 10·6·11

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The Cali Maine Man 10·4·11

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Octo 10·3·11

The season is here for roadtrips and bonfires, guitars and fellowship, campin and surfin, memories and new friends…stoked!

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Duck duck goose 9·26·11

Some fun ones to be had this weekend…

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Sunrise Special 9·23·11

Go get it!

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Not much out there 9·22·11

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New surf buddies 9·21·11

Rescued this little guy on venice beach…now he is the perma-surf-bud!

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Perspective needed 9·20·11

Take a 90degree turn from where you stand and look at where you were from where you now are and find the solution…

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Fuzzy dice in the mirror 9·19·11

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Maliblur 9·16·11

A little fuzzy but still like it…

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Prepare for landing 9·15·11

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Wade in the water… 9·14·11

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Peak-a-Bu 9·13·11

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Looking out… 9·12·11

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On the other side of the world 8·28·11

How many of you are going to be watching the Billabong Pro on your computer all day while you pretend to work… http://billabongpro.com

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Looking for a new ride… 8·28·11

Wondering if I get a truck, van or…maybe something like this?

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Home is where the art is… 8·27·11

Had a great day that day…

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Blessing of the boats 8·26·11

may the tide that is entering even now the lip of our understanding carry you out beyond the face of fear may you kiss the wind then turn from it certain that it will love your back may you open your eyes to water water waving forever and may you in your innocence sail through […]

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Robertsport, Liberia, West Africa 8·25·11

Got to surf Robertsport while in Liberia…If you like sweet tasty lefts you now know where to find them. Apparently when it’s going off this bay fills up with lines to the horizon.

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Oops, Got Home, She in Costa… 8·24·11

Timing is everything….so good to be home, stoked for the fall swells to start rolling in.

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Surf Liberia 7·24·11

Surfistas, I finally found internet and figured I should drop some 411 your way…(the photo is low fidelity on account of the slooooowwww internet upload)…sorry for not posting up for the days, I’ve been in Liberia, West Africa, working with a public health organization and all the refugees from the Ivory Coast (which is where […]

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Dream a little dream with me… 6·23·11

life is love…

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towards the heavens 6·22·11

“Let the morning bring me word of your unfailing love, for I have put my trust in you. Show me the way I should go, for to you I entrust my life.” Psalm 143:8

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Summerland Sunsets 6·21·11

A sleepy little town on the morning fog covered coast wakes up to the waves slapping at its shores…the sun breaks through and lights the way as the day takes note of our adventures…as if to celebrate another great day, the sky erupts in glory and the sun and clouds paint a beautiful canvas of […]

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6·13·11

Moving out, moving up, and moving on…but where do we go? Liberia, West Africa or Liberia, Costa Rica or Nica or or or….

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Where Now? 6·7·11

Where shall I go from here…

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From whence I came 6·2·11

The question I ask myself is does the apple fall far from the tree?

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180degrees South 5·31·11

Summer is here and the souths are coming north…it would be fun to go see what we can find out on the islands…

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A Grannis prayer 5·26·11

I’ve always loved Grannis’ photo of this surfer…he is so peaceful, almost in prayer, as the world and waves explode around him …Yeah Leroy!

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Office Space 5·25·11

A nice infusion of new research material to be perused at work…note the Lightner original print, thanks Kyle!

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Into the Abyss 5·23·11

Morning session at a not-so-secret lil’ spot before the wind showed up was definitely the call today…hoping to get out there again tomorrow. Here is a piece I recently completed…

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Angry birds 5·20·11

Have an awesome weekend…surf’s here.

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Inside 5·19·11

Getting deep for two seconds of glory…before the closeout!

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Am back… 5·18·11

Am back at it…I took a self-prescribed break from myself for the last two months and got lost in dreams and life and happiness and in the process found myself again. Have surfed here and there but have nothing epic to report…but isn’t that the point, that life is only as epic as you make […]

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Doldrums 3·10·11

Painting while I wait for the swell to come…

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Funtimes 3·9·11

Fun morning session surprise…

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Abstract Dreams 3·8·11

Rincon!…for sale.

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Victory at see 3·7·11

Stormy waves and stormy days…no surf sessions had, hikes into the mountains in their stead. Found the burning bush.

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Fuel Creativity 3·4·11

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Parko 3·3·11

Finished this diptych of my favorite Joel Parkinson aerial last night and really like it…this photo does not do the paintings justice but I wanted to share anyways. I’ll have better shots of it on my art website soon. Hope you get a shot at this swell today…am going to head north and see what […]

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What do you wait for? 3·1·11

‘And now what are you waiting for? Get up, be baptized and wash your sins away, calling on his name.’ Acts 22:16

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Romero Canyon 2·28·11

Thank God!

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Expressed 2·23·11

A blurry iphone snap mid-painting session…

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I thought sharing was caring! 2·23·11

HA…

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Who wants to go to Nica? 2·22·11

Been thinking about going down to Nica…would love to hear from any of you who have gone down and want to share some stories…hit me up at TheSurfbird@gmail.com.

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Double Trouble 2·18·11

Been getting it good the last few days…but today was victory at sea…Here is a shot of a not so secret spot I surfed yesterday with about 50 other dudes-including Kelly Slater and a bunch of other pros and Channel Island guys doing product testing on some new boards…it’s always entertaining to watch those guys […]

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Pelican days 2·13·11

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Norte 2·11·11

Going north for the weekend to find surf and adventure. We look at the sea and breath in…lost in its expanse. Seeing God in it’s beauty, we smile, becoming who we are. See you up north.

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Mainland 2·10·11

Been out on Catalina for the week and will post some shots later…Here is my birthday sunset last weekend from Summerland, CA! Life is love…remember it!

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Find yourself 2·7·11

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Beautiful Green Walls Worthy of Greenough 2·3·11

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No Snowpocalypse Here!!! 2·2·11

You can’t live a perfect day without doing something for someone who will never be able to repay you…think about it.

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Sponsor this girl! 2·1·11

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Lunes Vidrioso 1·31·11

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A bun in the oven… 1·28·11

Been making no-knead-bread lately and it’s delish! Hope you got some of those waves yesterday….they were also delish! God bless!

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Go now! 1·27·11

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Consider the lilies of the field . . .1·26·11

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Searching the sunrise for swell 1·25·11

Anhelo Su Boca, Su Voz, Su Pelo by Pablo Neruda Anhelo su boca, su voz, su pelo. Silencioso y muerto de hambre, rondo a travs de las calles. El pan no me alimenta, amanecer me interrumpe, yo busca todo el dia para la medida lquida de sus pasos. Tengo hambre de su risa lisa, sus […]

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Evenin’sesh anyone? 1·24·11

…see you out there.

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There is still some size to be had 1·24·11

My morning session = fun…can’t wait til my evening session.

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Sonday 1·23·11

Had such a fun weekend full of surf…there aren’t many other places where I feel at such peace as I feel when in the water…and I know you probably feel the same way…yet there is still one place better and it’s the place where I come to rest in faith, the place where my being […]

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TGIF 1·22·11

Have an awesome friend-filled weekend!

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Full moon rising 1·21·11

Went back to this spot last night with some friends and surfed it as the moon rose over the distant mountains and perfectly lit up each face as we raced into the darkness…water was warm, the phosphorescence was killer and the rides were surprisingly long and fun. There is still a lot of size in […]

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3 Mile Surprise 1·20·11

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Love is life 1·20·11

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Nook and crannies 1·19·11

With this much size and hype it is time to go to the mattresses and check out your favorite not-so-secret spots…here is a fun local nook.

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Big Wednesday Shaka 1·19·11

First of all, I hope you all had a shot at your favorite spot yesterday cause it was all time…I had the longest sweetest cleanest most tasty cover up of my life yesterday…it has been stuck on repeat in my head ever since. Along with some of the biggest waves I’ve seen at Rincon in […]

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Perspectives 1·18·11

Here is a panoramic shot that my iphone stitched together after yesterday’s evening session…an interesting new look to that old faithful point break. The swell is here…go get some!

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Reflecting 1·17·11

So so good to get back in this weekend…

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fARTing around 1·14·11

Almost done with this painting…it’s taking me a long time to finish it but I think the last of the paint will go on today…a little sneak peek for all of you.

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One more day on land… 1·13·11

Doc says I can get back in the water tomorrow…so that is what I shall do. Here is a photo for an old friend.

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Glassy 1·11·11

Been fighting the gnarliest cold, but as I got up this morning for a most beautiful sunrise the light through my kitchen widow was reflecting perfectly off this awesome piece of seaglass that resides on my kitchen table…it is a perfect barreling left…and no crowd factor. Mindsurfed it as the tea steeped and figured i’d […]

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Salty Dog 1·6·11

Been sick as a dog the last two days…which means the surf has shown up and some of you are getting it good…while I lay in bed sneezing and coughing! YAY!

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Eagle eyes 1·4·11

It’s funny the stuff you’ll take photos of when you have surf on the mind…stop reading this and go get wet. See you out there.

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bros 1·3·11

An evening spent with the stanleys…in other news: it’s time for a surf hunt…need to bag a few sets. Happy hunting to all!

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Rainstorming 1·2·11

IPhone induced panoramic!

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THE ONE 1·1·11

A new year is here and with it a lifetime of possibilities. It is a great day to focus on your focus and make sure that this year is marked by action. The sunrise filtering through my window this morning on this first day of the year made me think of Psalm 27:1 “The LORD […]

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In with the new…12·31·10

Out with the old and…

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4ever! 12·30·10

Time is too slow for those who wait, too swift for those who fear, too long for those who grieve, too short for those who rejoice, but for those who love, time is eternity.

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Back at it… 12·29·10

Am back in town and ready for this rain to kick out and for the swells to drop in…stopped by Mollusk while in SF…stop on in if you are ever in that hood…and if you are in this hood, you better go have a looksea at Point Concept! Be well everyone.  I’ll be posting some […]

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Into the light 12·28·10

“Do not withhold your mercy from me, LORD; may your love and faithfulness always protect me. For troubles without number surround me; my sins have overtaken me, and I cannot see. They are more than the hairs of my head, and my heart fails within me. Be pleased to save me, LORD; come quickly, LORD, […]

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Sing your heart out! 12·27·10

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The new scool…12·26·10

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Happy Birthday! 12·25·10

His star is rising. Merry Christmas everyone.

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Mind surfing 12·24·10

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Build 12·23·10

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Genius 12·22·10

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Getting inspired at the MoMA 12·21·10

Do art!

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Rain Rain Go Away 12·20·10

Figured with all that brown ocean soup out there I should add a little soap. Hope you are all staying wet out there…and dry inside.

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Purple rain on the horizon 12·16·10

words words words and words…i need to work more on action!

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Sailor’s delight 12·14·10

“Let the morning bring me word of your unfailing love, for I have put my trust in you. Show me the way I should go, for to you I entrust my life.” Psalm 143:8

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Upwards 12·13·10

Looking up to the heavens last night finding peace…

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For Kyle L. 12·12·10

Keep pushing the limits…

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Your Faith Has Healed You 12·10·10

Man, what a week…hope you’ve found your spot in the lineup…hope you’re gotten your fill…this swell is dying quick…go!

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Here it comes… 12·8·10

…lines to the horizon…

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This little piggy went wee wee wee wee allllllll the way home frozen 12·7·10

It is way bigger than you think…and way colder too. My tootsies froze out there…

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Agua fria! 12·7·10

…no time for words…gotta get in!

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Westy 12·6·10

Hope you all found a little time to enjoy today’s surprise westies…I did!

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Confirmed 12·5·10

Could a mariner sit idle if he heard the drowning cry? Could a doctor sit in comfort and just let his patient die? Could a fireman keep on sleeping, let men burn and give no hand? We’ve got to fight injustice, make a difference, take a stand! How do we keep on smiling in light […]

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Mexicali 12·3·10

Headed south of the border for the weekend…hope to sea some of you there!

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Be Radiant 12·2·10

“In the same way, let your light shine before others, that they may see your good deeds and glorify your Father in heaven.” Matthew 5:16

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You know it’s bad when… 12·1·10

You know it’s been a dry spell when you go check the surf and realize that your shred sched. has been completely empty and that you are in such need of an epic swell that you would even gladly take all these crowds…oh, withdrawal sucks…bring back my muse.

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peelers… 11·30·10

A little bit to be had today…

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THANK YOU 11·29·10

So many thanks to give, so gifted just to live, so many friends to love, so many ways to help so many…..

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sea fleas 11·24·10

Focus…

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The White Buffalo Rocks 11·22·10

Spent the day in Ventucky and capped the night off with some new friends checking out The White Buffalo, and he rocked it! I can’t recommend The White Buffalo enough…seriously, give him a good listen and join me in wondering why someone with this much soul hasn’t yet blown up…man, good stuff.

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Ripples 11·20·10

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Be true to yourself 11·19·10

“Ask and it will be given to you; seek and you will find; knock and the door will be opened to you. For everyone who asks receives; the one who seeks finds; and to the one who knocks, the door will be opened.” Matthew 7:7-8

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Stickin’together 11·18·10

Right on!

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A little surf. 11·17·10

Didn’t find much, but still got in and had a good time…

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FOR SALE 11·16·10

I am selling this Nikon 500mm lens…and you should buy it if you want some awesome surf shots. It is in great condition and I am selling it just because I don’t use it much and it deserves a loving home. I am going to post it on ebay and craigslist, but call me and […]

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Beauty is in the eye… 11·13·10

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Curren goes big… 11·11·10

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Last light 11·10·10

Sometimes you just have to run for it…

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Diagonals 11·9·10

“Do nothing out of selfish ambition or vain conceit, but in humility consider others better than yourselves. Each of you should look not only to your own interests, but also to the interests of others.” Phil.2:3-4

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New Trucker Caps 11·9·10

Check out the new Surfbird hats

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Claro que si 11·8·10

Moment of truth…

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Aim High 11·7·10

Heard this yesterday and kind of liked it…”Shoot for the moon, ’cause if you fail you’ll still be among stars”.

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Keep on Keeping on… 11·6·10

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In the storm’s shadow 11·5·10

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Good Deeds 11·4·10

…good deeds are obvious, and even those that are not obvious cannot remain hidden forever…

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Getting Good 11·3·10

Found some nuggets today!

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Death by High Tide 11·3·10

Up at the break of dawn for some early morning treats…but nothing (death by high tide!). Perfect opportunity to give thanks and praise for this wonderful day and wait out the tide by reading the bible on the beach…

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Big Wednesday? 11·2·10

Pat Curren ripping it up this evening at the corner spot…this swell was a little over-hyped, but 4hrs+ of 3-6ft+ surf & glass is all I needed to cast my vote for the Queen! FUN!

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Behind us 11·1·10

Looking back into the rear view mirror I can safely say that that was a fun October…I can only hope that November turns it up…

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Trick or treat 10·31·10

Here is a good trick or treat…

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Take a hike! 10·30·10

…being sure of what we hope for and certain of what we do not see…

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Half & Half 10·29·10

Better than coffee!

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Funtastic 10·28·10

Drove by this spot on a surf check last night and just had to get in and pick off a few of these beauties…hope you are making the most of this swell. I’m down to surf whenever, wherever and with whoever…so call me if you want to cruise. 310.525.4227. Or more importantly feel free to […]

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Offshore accounts 10·27·10

Lots of wind and lots of surf, lots of fun and lots of sun. Get it before if goes away!

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Sunrise at the Queen 10·26·10

God is Great! What a beautiful day to give thanks and praise! Got in at o’dark:30, the stars were bright, the air: clear and sweet, and the chest-high rollers were glassy and far from consistent but fun. Cold feet, warm smiles, good times. Second sesh this pm if anyone wants to cruise…

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Stop what you’re doing and go surf! 10·25·10

Checked it early this morning…but the tide was killing it…but time will do its thing, the tide will fall and the walls will rise…and surf will be had by all! Have an awesome day!

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Somebody get your goat? 10·24·10

Found some waves today…and some goats. Turns out these goats can surf better than you or me, and can actually hang twenty…ok, maybe not, but they sure were cool.

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Rise 10·23·10

Get right! Took this photo with the burst function of my iphone camera…it takes 16 photos in a second and though the format is weird and the resolution sucks, it is still a fun little thing to play with…This kid needs to be sponsored, so help him out with your connections and I promise great […]

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Found waves 10·22·10

Took three photos with my iphone and it put tem together for me…fancy! Next thing you know, the iphone will be doing my surfing for me…

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Glueup 10·21·10

A crazy idea…helped Spencer glue up an alaia blank the other day…fun to play with wood and glue and tablesaws and creativity…sorry for the awful photo quality!

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blurred vision 10·20·10

So many tears falling from the heavens today…

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Howdy’camper 10·19·10

Think about how hard we all try to get shacked all the time and then realize that it’s just surf and that the shackless, homeless, and folks on the street try harder than any of us for a little shackage, shelter or coverup…It rained last night, complete with thunder and lightning, and I bet that […]

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The flock heads north at daybreak! 10·18·10

Found a fun-filled morning a few clicks north of here last Saturday. Pulled a solo mission to meet up with some folks but did not complete that mission objective… I did, however, end up finding some unexpected old friends…for triple bonus points! The crowd filled in with the morning light and by mid-day it was […]

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The Approach 10·17·10

Two of my favorite barns…

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Country roads take me home… 10·16·10

This has got to be one of my favorite vistas…

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SURFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF 10·14·10

…is where you find it….

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Dad’s Day 10·13·10

The wind blows wherever it pleases. You hear its sound, but you cannot tell where it comes from or where it is going. So it is with everyone born of the Spirit. -John 3:8

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Morning Brewhaha 10·12·10

Found a little somethin’ this morning…though I should of headed north to Jalama with some of you folks. Next time!

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Bedhead 10·11·10

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Rainmaker 10·10·10

I got to hang Ten ten ten on 10/10/10…

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Legacy 10·8·10

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Go 4th and X! 10·7·10

Surf check 101!

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Humble pie 10·4·10

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Surf’s up 10·2·10

You know it’s been good when you have this many suits drying!

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Pinch and a punch for the first of the month 10·1·10

Came upon this scene while checking for some waves…

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Rejoice 9·30·10

This is one of my favorite passages and I think of it often…and wanted to share. “Rejoice in the Lord always. I will say it again: Rejoice! Let your gentleness be evident to all. The Lord is near. Do not be anxious about anything, but in everything, by prayer and petition, with thanksgiving, present your […]

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What’s your calling? 9·29·10

Stop for a few seconds and think about where you are heading…1 mississippi, 2mississippi, 3mississippi…when you look back on your life, two, five, ten, fifty years from now, what do you want to have done, to be remembered for? Here is a Call Box, answer your calling and get going on those dreams, make life […]

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Addicted 9·28·10

Man it was good yesterday, and again this morning and all glassy and some nice fun fast sets and crowd was chill and parking lot was full and life is good and then I got this coffee….Crazy! (sorry for the grain and focus, it was taken with the iphone, so is low-fidelity).

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Reenkon 9·27·10

Hear hear to sunrise sessions…

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93101 9·26·10

A quick iphone shot of the Santa Barbara Pier…

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Party Wave 9·25·10

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Knock knock…who’s there…9·23·10

Dwaine…Dwaine who?…Dwaine the baftub i’m dwowning! This painting gets mailed to whoever posts the best knock-knock joke in the comments section!

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1 fish 2 fish red fish blue fish 9·22·10

Drove south to meet up with my bro and found this cove with just one guy out and savory little peelers rolling in…the sun came out, the water warmed up and we were blessed with laughs, good conversation and much tip time. Yeah Lord!

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Leave a note 9·21·10

Be thankful…

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3ft & Building 9·20·10

Started the day with an early morning session down south smiling because it looks like it should get better as the week progresses. Yet I look back to this sunset last night and realize that we spend, I spend, too much time looking forward trying to figure out what the future holds, and in the […]

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Betterment 9·17·10

These flat cold foggy seas have forced me to subsidize the stoke meter with adult ed classes…spanish, guitar and jewelry making. Yeah, i know jewelry making isn’t exactly a macho thing to do, but who cares and besides, you get to play around with stuff like this anvil…and what could make you feel more alive […]

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Ice Cold 9·16·10

Went south by southwest for some tip time this morning at C st. Not much bigger that waist high, but super fun. Here is a shot of me and two of my favorite people!

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Sailing away 9·13·10

Drove south last week and just kept going…ended up just north of the border with boards, bikes, sleeping bags and girl. Spent the last few days finding summer, sun, surf, sailboats, and the Lord’s sweet sweet love. Am back in the 93103 and stoked that the summer sun followed us north.

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Il n’est pas profonde 9·7·10

Looked for surf all weekend and didn’t find much…heard from the boys back in Maine that they got it all time.

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Take time 9·5·10

Take time to figure out what you believe…

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Is this really Summer? 9·3·10

Wow, we are due for a swell and some sun…and it sounds like we might get both this weekend!

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Looking back 9·2·10

Here is a shot of my pops back in the 60’s…wish he were still here.

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Clarity 9·1·10

Drove south today through the fog towards clarity but it was only temporary and now the haze is back…the sun sets and offers a glimpse at the clarity of days ahead.

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Stoked on the future… 8·31·10

The days ahead are gloriously bright, I feel like it is all possible and right, like the sets are stacking up and we just have to ride one all the way in to the cove…stoked!

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Back in the water 8·30·10

Surfy surfy surfy…just got back to the SB…Stoked!

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I want to be you Maine man 8·20·10

Woweee…this was one cool sunrise. Still no surf here in Maine and only have a week to go…may the west coast swells of fall and winter start to do their thing…

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Hope she brings the surf… 8·17·10

The girl of my dreams arrives tonight!

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ReflectionsnoitcelfeR 8·15·10

Be a mirror!

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Bird 8·12·10

Was messing around and took this self-portrait…kind of think it looks like a blackbird flying your way…

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From Above 8·11·10

Sometimes you just need to change your point of view to change your point of view. Sometimes we see so much as to be blind to the scene and the seen, and those that are blind to so much see our unseen and un-scene. Choose to be blind to yourself and you will see others.

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Intruder Alert 8·8·10

It’s one thing when you are surfing your local spot back home in Santa Barbara and some guy paddles out that you don’t recognize…you kind of nod and chalk it up to that-sucks-that-there-is-another-person-in-the-water-but-there-are-plenty-of-waves…but when you are in deep back-country coastal Maine and some VW van is parked in the local spot parking lot with a […]

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You can’t get there from here 8·5·10

Early morning boat ride in the fog…looking forward to getting in the water over the next two days as a mid-summer swell hits Maine. Stoked!

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A date with the queen 8·4·10

Usually a date with the queen to me means an epic session at rincon but there is another queen that graced my night last night…The Night Blooming Cereus, also known as the Queen of the Night, is a wonder to be seen. Now, I am not some flower freak, but this thing is incredible. This […]

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Eastward 8·3·10

I am off to the land of Grain Surfboards, empty cold water breaks, lobster and hurricane swells…MAINE! But don’t you worry, there will be plenty of updates to be had. Until then, here is a shot of what I found yesterday on my surf hunt…

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Confectionery 8·2·10

This infectiously sweet shot was set up and taken by the very talented and amazing Ms. KLR… I awoke to the sound of the fog horn this morning thinking of that beautiful afternoon back in Kauai, wishing I were back there. Most of Santa Barbara is covered in fog this morning, which means glassy little […]

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Claiming it 8·1·10

Yeah, you know who you are…

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Be Different 7·30·10

As I look out my window at the coming weekend I wonder: How will I make these days stand out? Will I dare to be different this weekend, or will time tick by, the dare unanswered? What is at the center of our being? My Answer: a deep love of God and doing right. Your […]

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2nd session 7·29·10

…kept messing with that watercolor I posted back on 7·17·10…but am not sure which one I like better. It may have been a case of if-it-aint-broke-then-don’t-try-to-fix-it…which do you prefer?

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Surfari 7·28·10

Drove all over dodge to find a face, a lip, a bump or a lump…opted for photographically sliding into the future. Shot this surf’rig as it flew by a local spot- they weren’t interested in getting wet either…I like this shot ’cause it lets you decide for yourself how good that local spot looked today […]

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What do you see? 7·27·10

Brush in hand, I spent some time last evening staring up at the heavens trying to replicate that immense perfection…check it out here.

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A little something if you are willing to get wet 7·26·10

Not always sure if it’s worth getting in…but figured I’d try. It was fun.

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Red niK eB <-- 7·23·10

The swell is dying and this guy is making the most of that set. What a fun week if you were able to catch that south swell…spent last night with my good friend Michael, who is without home and lives on the streets. He goes without food for days and days at a time and […]

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Only on the PCH 7·22·10

Drove by this scene yesterday on the PCH…miles and miles of open ocean and emptiness being filled with some pretty sick drum beats. Talk about rocking out for God. It was a sick show!

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Take Two 7·21·10

Strengthen the feeble hands, steady the knees that give way…found surf in LA today (it is much bigger than you think).

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Take One 7·21·10

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What path do you walk? 7·20·10

Defend the cause of the weak and fatherless; maintain the rights of the poor and oppressed…

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Nicaragua? 7·19·10

Not much surf around these parts this last week…thoughts of moving to Nica on my mind, thinking sometimes we just need to see the open doors and jump right in!

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looking 7·17·10

…a work in progress…–>7·29·10

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Together 7·13·10

Life is so so precious…and so I write to all of you to let you know that famed surfboard shaper Al Merrick’s granddaughter, Daisy Merrick, is fighting for her life this morning…At 6 years old, she has been fighting cancer for the last 9 months, and though she was in remission, it is back on […]

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I choo choose you! 7·12·10

You are stopped, at this very moment, at life’s crossroads: time to figure out how you want to live…really, truly live. The train of time is about to charge right by and it’s decision time! If you are like me, you probably think that you can put off that decision, let the train pass and […]

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To the sea, like charcoal to paper 7·9·10

“As charcoal to embers and as wood to fire, so is a quarrelsome man for kindling strife.” This one is for sale…all proceeds to go to Orphan Network.

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Fast 7·8·10

…return to me with all your heart!

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Peace Out 7·6·10

Found a little surf these last few days, but we’ve had to travel far and wide just to find it. Ran into a friend that is separating from his wife because things just aren’t working out and I thought I would pepper this post with a little depth instead of staying in the shallows just […]

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For a song… 7·1·10

Been playing my new guitar…this long exposure was shot in low candlelight and weird fluorescent lighting…here are some lyrics from a song I’ve really been digging lately…”Your eyes are doves behind your veil. Your hair is as a flock of goats…”

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Salt 6·30·10

An old guy drove by with a smile on his face, the folds of his leathery skin spoke volumes to the sacrifice he has made for this way of life…no 9 to 5 for this guy, definitely not of this world he drives the road before him, an easy smile, a board and a purpose…As […]

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Coverup 6·29·10

There are a few little coverups to be found in this south swell…and this shot perfectly illustrate’s today’s quote: “I have learned to be satisfied with whatever I have”. Think on this one for a while, really chew on it…we always think that the grass is always greener on the other side of our perspective. […]

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Re:Definition 6·28·10

Sorry I have been m.i.a. I walked off into the darkness to try to find the light and did not bring a camera nor a computer to update my blog…the good news, however, is that I found the light and it was from within. I’ve spent a good part of the last three weeks since […]

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SO SICK! 6·9·10

the summer doldrums have forced my surfing to the internet…where I found this totally radical video…somebody had way too much time on their hands…but I am glad they did. Good job. Enjoy!

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Warning: Sea Monster Sighting 6·8·10

We were body whomping when this floating head charged us…man, what an ugly scary hungry monster…ehwwwwww, that thing was gnarly. Luckily it attacked some spongers instead!

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Summered 6·7·10

fun evening in the surf as memories flashed across a painted sky…

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