Timber! 04·13·09

April 13, 2009 by admin

So as surfers we tend to exaggerate a little when it comes to our favorite pastime. We stretch the truth when recounting that one epic day we had no too long ago, or maybe in estimating the size of the surf when giving a buddy the surf report (in hopes of enticing them to the water). We are plagued by white lies and half-truths…and so with that disclaimer I would like to temporarily disown this vice and tell you that I got the longest barrel of my life this evening–no lie! I didn’t expect much out of the session when I drove up to MiniCon and the lineup was empty. Sat there a while checkin’ it when a sneaker set came through and got my ass in gear. Surfed it by myself for 2 hrs, and it just kept getting better and better as the sun moved towards the cloudy horizon. The waves were jacking right up and the better sets were shoulder to headhigh and far from mushy they were kinda hollow and very fast. Saw a two wave set coming in from the horizon and paddled for the second and bigger wave, made a steeper than expected drop and pulled in for my longest cover up ever…it just kept going and holding up and going and and I rode it from the green monster almost to the hotel, kicking out over the lip with a loud YEAAAAAAH! Think I’ll be riding that high for weeks to come. Of course there was nobody out to corroborate my feat and I felt a little like the tree falling in the solitary woods trying to make some noise…but noise I made!