Here we go ·01·15·09

January 15, 2009 by admin

Funny how everywhere I go everyone is talking about the huge swell that’s on its way. Depending on who you believe it is supposed to come in at well past DOH (doubleoverhead). That’s huge and I find myself thinking that the ubiquity of long range surf forecast websites has got to be a double edged sword- awesome that we can all pack up our quiver and suits, grab some friends and take off for the best break, knowing that we’re gonna get it good, but so much for ever being surprised by how fast a swell has built overnight when you’re the first and only one out…that being said I am super psyched for this huge swell coming in from Japan.  Excited for the surf and photos to come.