Covered ·01·06·09

January 6, 2009 by admin

Glad to get back in the water today. Water has gotten cold (low/mid-50s) and the warm-water crowds have flown south for the winter. Surfed Faria til sunset. Beautiful evening glass-off made it look like an ocean of mercury, reflecting every last ray of the setting sun, just beautiful. Hands were close to numb as I caught my last wave in and somehow managed to find myself in the tube. Perfect way to end my first 2009 session.