Alone ·12·12·08

December 12, 2008 by admin

Got in the water as the sun was setting. 6 people out, three of them groms…water’s still warm and full of fish. The swell direction is way to steep and passing us right by on its way to Mexico, only the occasional waist high peeler gives any proof of its existence. Didn’t think I’d get much but wanted to celebrate the full moon as it is closer to us tonight than at any time in the last 14 years. Traded waves with the others till soon enough I was alone, the groms left first and the adults slowly followed. Watching the moon rise over the coastal range was awe inspiring, and I had my pick of every set. I surfed for quite a while, watching the moon’s reflection dance on the crest of each wave. Soon I too got out of the water, wanting to take a photo of this eternal dance. Didn’t think I’d ever surf Rincon alone, it was great.