Ole! ·09·27·08

September 27, 2008 by admin

Surfed fun little waves today. Nice waist high peelers created for nose riding. With a big smile and at times a loud “YEAH”, i find pleasure in every ride…on most days like today I choose not to wear a leash. This affords me the freedom of a ballerina turned Matador as i cross-step to the nose and hang. Most of the time its a beautiful afternoon stroll to the tip, but not always, sometimes the board is covered in banana peels and i not only kook right off the nose, but as was the case this afternoon, lose the log to the waves…and race it all the way back to the beach as it instinctively homes in on the biggest and only rock on this stretch of coast or better yet the poor little unsuspecting kid playing in the whitewater …this image popped into my head as I swam and bodysurfed after my board.