Beach, please… ·09·13·08

September 13, 2008 by admin

Been thinking about this break all summer. Nothin but glass to the horizon and perfect little peelers reflecting the setting sun. No swell is forecasted and the lineup is empty, save for the 80lb groms that are tearing it up. You nod as you get in the water, thinking you’re gonna rip and show ’em a thing or two. WRONG, they’re bustin airs, floaters and well, you’re not. Somehow it doesn’t matter.