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« Previous PageYeah Laughter ·01·17·09
by admin
Surf, eat, sleep, repeat…double session today and more to come in the morning. Swell supposed to stick around for a week and I’m psyched.
Read MoreHere we go ·01·15·09
January 15, 2009 by admin
Funny how everywhere I go everyone is talking about the huge swell that’s on its way. Depending on who you believe it is supposed to come in at well past DOH (doubleoverhead). That’s huge and I find myself thinking that the ubiquity of long range surf forecast websites has got to be a double edged […]
Read MoreTo the sea with the sun you set ·01·14·09
January 14, 2009 by admin
“Tu es la raison qu’on est tous naitre, you’re our raison d’etre”…hiked into the mountains this evening and was amazed at how calm the world was. Barely a breeze over the Pacific as the sun set over San Miguel Island. The horizon exploded into a soft colorful fade that stretched to every corner of the […]
Read MoreBlue Moon ·01·13·09
January 13, 2009 by admin
Here is a Night-blooming Cereus. Rarely seen in the wild but for one midsummer’s night each year, its exqusitely scented flower opens as night falls, then closes forever with the first rays of the morning sun. My friend Ashley Bryan grew this flower and a few of us spent the evening in its glory.
Read MoreAnd so we go ·01·12·09
January 12, 2009 by admin
“All of us have in our veins the exact same percentage of salt in our blood that exists in the ocean…And when we go back to the sea…we are going back from whence we came.” JFK… Took this shot way past sunset this evening with no tripod but a need to capture these last colors […]
Read MoreMoving ·01·09·09
January 9, 2009 by admin
It’s been a slow winter for waves, but they’re out there if you know where to look…
Read MoreReflections, horizons and lineups… ·01·08·09
January 8, 2009 by admin
Been thinking of throwing a few boards, suits, cameras and sleeping bag into the pickup and heading to Baja for some fish tacos and empty breaks. Its been too long since my last trip south and Baja is calling…funny that I too seem to want to fly south in search of warmer waters and long […]
Read MoreWild ·01·07·09
January 7, 2009 by admin
Woke up at 5am, collected my things and headed north with a friend…raced the sun through winding roads, oak groves and rolling hills. Rounding a bend a coyote crossed the road and stopped to watch us fly by…a little further down the road we surprised a huge sow, definitely the biggest wild pig I’ve ever […]
Read MoreCovered ·01·06·09
January 6, 2009 by admin
Glad to get back in the water today. Water has gotten cold (low/mid-50s) and the warm-water crowds have flown south for the winter. Surfed Faria til sunset. Beautiful evening glass-off made it look like an ocean of mercury, reflecting every last ray of the setting sun, just beautiful. Hands were close to numb as I […]
Read MoreHome Sweet Home ·01·05·09
January 5, 2009 by admin
Landed to a crisp Santa Barbara evening, excited to be back, back to Cali Cali…but already miss Haiti. It may not be on any of your top ten lists of possible vacation spots, but go, visit, you won’t be sorry. Hit me up and I’ll point you in the right direction. Bring on 2009 and […]
Read MoreStoke · 01·04·09
January 4, 2009 by admin
Excited to get back to Cali. My batteries are charged, my notebook full of sketches, big ideas are brewing, and itchin’ to surf.
Read MoreHere we go! ·01·03·09
January 3, 2009 by admin
I have resolved to update this blog daily starting today…assuming the internet is within reach and am not lost in some little fishing village somewhere around the world trying to scope out my next potential session. It took me the better part of two weeks to get everything in order and finally The Surfbird is […]
Read MoreSurf Trips ·01·02·09
January 2, 2009 by admin
I’ve been thinking a great deal about dedicating more of my 2009 travel to surf adventures…Brazil, New Zealand, France and India are all possibilities for this new year. Here’s a photograph taken on my most recent trip through Bolivia’s High Andes…Yes those colors are real, the high elevation and lack of pollution do some pretty […]
Read MoreNew Year ·01·01·09
January 1, 2009 by admin
A good time of year for retrospective thought, time to recalibrate the soul and set the odometer to zero. The unexamined life is a little like running up a downward moving escalator, you spend lots of energy doing it and it’s kind of fun, but rarely does it lead anywhere before the security guard tells […]
Read MoreHomage Paid ·12·30·08
December 30, 2008 by admin
We’ve spent most of our time in Haiti at the beach. Took a small boat out to a tiny island of sand for a picnic and snorkeling…Took this shot as a little peeler crashed into shore. I really like this photo for its blurs and splashes and composition and colors and it really reminds me […]
Read MoreYou Should Have Been Here Yesterdayyyye ·12·28·08
December 28, 2008 by admin
A photo from a year ago, a beautifully large swell came down from Alaska and graced us with three days of glorious surf…
Read MoreAdvice ·12·26·08
December 26, 2008 by admin
Was given a 1964 book titled “SURFING” as a Christmas gift, lots of cool graphics to inspire the next round of t-shirt designs…this image was titled “Pearling is Perilous”.
Read MoreSanta Claus is Coming to Town ·12·25·08
December 25, 2008 by admin
Not a bad place to spend Christmas with the family.
Read MoreHaitian Shapers? ·12·24·08
December 24, 2008 by admin
Was driving through Cap Haitian, in northern Haiti, when I saw my first Haitian surfboard shaper…There was something about the way this guy was looking at the wooden planks that just screamed “I’m going to shape some Haitian Alaias”. He grabbed the four boards as I snapped the photo and is probably in his shaping […]
Read MoreDistant Cousins ·12·21·08
December 21, 2008 by admin
You should see some of the waves and shore breaks that these little dugout canoes can handle.
Read MoreHaiti ·12·19·08
December 19, 2008 by admin
Evenings at the beach, Prestige beer in hand, watching the sun go down over Isle de la Gonave…
Read MoreNew Day ·12·17·08
December 17, 2008 by admin
Took this shot on a trip through Baja. Having spent the entire trip surfing, we took advantage of a flat spell and headed to the Sea of Cortez for some fishing & exploring. Woke up early the next morning to this incredible sunrise.
Read MoreWanted ·12·16·08
December 16, 2008 by admin
A shot of a dehydrated surfer, lost in Zambia, circa mid-2007…If found, please return to the waters of southern california for immediate resuscitation.
Read MoreGifts ·12·15·08
December 15, 2008 by admin
A post surf shot of a big swell that came through this time last year, throwing sea spray high into the heavens, blending the line between ocean and sky and softening everything out of focus. Was thinking today about the ritual of gift giving and how the most important gift we can ever give has […]
Read MoreGo South ·12·14·08
December 14, 2008 by admin
Went for a surf check at Mesalane. The wind is on it and the swell angle still too steep. Was hoping to get wet one last time before getting on a plane to Hispaniola later today. Excited for my three week sabbatical in the Caribbean. Had a staring contest with this little white eye on […]
Read MoreQuiet Storm ·12·13·08
December 13, 2008 by admin
“and all the things i tried to say were never easy to explain…”
Read MoreAlone ·12·12·08
December 12, 2008 by admin
Got in the water as the sun was setting. 6 people out, three of them groms…water’s still warm and full of fish. The swell direction is way to steep and passing us right by on its way to Mexico, only the occasional waist high peeler gives any proof of its existence. Didn’t think I’d get […]
Read More1Fish 2Fish RedFish BlueFish ·12·11·08
December 11, 2008 by admin
Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don’t matter and those who matter don’t mind. -Dr. Suess
Read MoreBalance ·12·10·08
December 10, 2008 by admin
Not a great shot but always a fun spot, look at that little peeler. A two day flat spell is the calm before the storm. Forecasts are calling for well overhead this weekend…the butterflies in my stomach are waking and the knees starting to shake with excitement…where do I go? North or South? What board […]
Read MoreWanderlust ·12·09·08
December 9, 2008 by admin
I tend to get a little itchy this time of year as the travel bugs start biting and so will soon be off to Hispaniola for three weeks. Went to Mesalane for an evening surf check. No surf to be had. Came home to a brand new Ukulele–Santa came early this year. Time to practice.
Read MoreAquarius ·12·08·08
December 8, 2008 by admin
Spent another sunset in the ocean. Surfed Faria again, a little slow but seemed to build as the session went on. An in-between-sets epiphany at the importance of water in my life. Rewarded by another great sunset- almost as though Monet had spilled his palette into the glassy sea as it mirrored a sky full […]
Read MoreThanks ·12·07·08
December 7, 2008 by admin
Over 4000 troops have died in Iraq to date, and think about all the Iraqi civilians that have also lost their lives. Walked by the memorial to those troops tonight as fireworks were going off…thankful that I am not covered by the oppressive envelope of war, lucky to be free of war’s worries.
Read MoreCalifornia ·12·05·08
December 5, 2008 by admin
Its been an incredible week- seems all I’ve been doing is surfing surfing surfing. Went down to C Street today for a surf check, surprisingly the swell was not showing, but the locals were. Talked to some ol’timers in the parking lot for a while, the folds, wrinkles and lines of there faces etched in […]
Read MoreTryAngle ·12·02·08
December 3, 2008 by admin
Surfed Faria today, again surprised to find that the swell is holding up. This is one of the most picturesque backdrops against which to surf, the view from the lineup as the evening sun sets fire to the golden mist rolling over the coastal buttes is breathtaking. Did not have my camera, so here is […]
Read MoreTipTime ·12·02·08
by admin
Went down the road today to C Street. Pleasantly surprised at the head high sets rolling through. Crowded but fun. Ended up surfing for three hours. Had not expected the size and so took out the 9’3 Herbie–spent most of the session on the nose. Excited to see what I find in the morning.
Read MoreSunshine ·11·23·08
November 23, 2008 by admin
No surf today… dark, grey and windy. Drew the opposite.
Read MoreThrough The Looking Glass ·11·22·08
November 22, 2008 by admin
What a day. Woke up early and went for the audible by deciding for a mid-morning session instead of joining the dawn patrol…back to bed. Got up at a reasonable hour and drove south past super crowded shoulder-high Rincon. I love this time of day, alone in the car, pumping some tunes and checking all […]
Read MoreDrive by ·11·20·08
November 20, 2008 by admin
Drove by this secret spot and had to stop and shoot. Only had my little elph camera and the resolution sucks, but the mood is right…WAVES!
Read MoreThe Queen ·11·14·08
November 14, 2008 by admin
Seems like everyone was out tonight…including the queen of the coast in all her majestic glory. Head high offshore perfection. Beautiful!
Read MoreFIRE ·11·13·08
November 13, 2008 by admin
The view from my porch…Lots of friends out there in those hills tonight, some firefighter friends, some homeowner friends, some surf buddies…be thankful you’re at your computer and not about to lose your quiver, house, life.
Read MoreSanta Anas ·11·12·08
November 12, 2008 by admin
Light Santa Ana winds swept in this evening to clean things up. Headed down to this secret spot for a sunset session. I brought my water camera to shoot some sunset shots and was rewarded by both a beautiful sunset and shoulder high sets. I always have fun here.
Read MoreJust Swell ·11·11·08
November 11, 2008 by admin
Went for a hike a few days back. The flat spell sent me to the mountains and there, to my surprise, I found surf. An oak tree had recently come down across the path and had been rounded to open up the way…I thought about counting the rings when like a Rorschach inkblot test the […]
Read MoreBetween Sets ·11·07·08
November 7, 2008 by admin
Waiting for waves while the little fish play with the little piggies…
Read MoreYes we can! ·11·04·08
November 4, 2008 by admin
Took this shot in Haiti. I do not usually like manipulating photos, but I was playing with the features of my new camera and those yellows deserved attention…I also do not usually like elections manipulated, but thankfully they weren’t and our man Barack WON!
Read MoreGlass Love ·11·02·08
November 2, 2008 by admin
It rained yesterday and the 10ft swell they were calling for came in at head high…went north to avoid some of the SB runoff, got some good ones. Tried for three sessions, but the wind came up and stopped us at two. Still stoked.
Read MoreColorwheel ·10·30·08
October 30, 2008 by admin
You guessed it…it’s flat again, no surf but a nice pastel sunset.
Read MoreThink ·10·29·08
October 29, 2008 by admin
“All that we are is the result of what we have thought. The mind is everything. What we think we become.” -Buddha.
Read MoreIndian Summer ·10·28·08
October 28, 2008 by admin
Spent the weekend in San Diego…surfed 7 times in three days. Water was summer warm and clear in most spots…Surfed IB on Saturday morning, paddled right by a dead seal and a nasty ass used condom, should have turned around and headed for shore but the head high glassy faces were too mesmerizing… Hope those […]
Read MoreFlat spell ·10·23·08
October 23, 2008 by admin
Got back from the East Coast to a pacified ocean.Went to Rincon to get wet and plug back in. Dolphins playing, pelicans fishing, nobody out and no inside peelers…plenty of fun floating on the log and slowing way down. With a wavecount of zero, I caught my first and last ankle breaker of a wave […]
Read Morelegacy ·10·13·08
October 13, 2008 by admin
October 13 gives me pause time to reflect and be a beautiful weekend in maine working the woods as if ten again working by dad’s side the sound of a chainsaw forever reminding me of him salty sweat mosquito spray hugs we cut down a dead tree whose rings numbered 110 all the way to […]
Read Moreword. ·10·01·08
October 1, 2008 by admin
I saw this yesterday and had to go back to shoot it. My brother just turned me on to telephonic staple art ( yeah I just made that word up, what) and I’m fascinated. It is fun to think of telephone poles as individuals, far from static they take on the evolving identity of their […]
Read MoreOutside ·09·29·08
September 29, 2008 by admin
Sometimes we need the ocean to wipe the slate clean…
Read MoreOle! ·09·27·08
September 27, 2008 by admin
Surfed fun little waves today. Nice waist high peelers created for nose riding. With a big smile and at times a loud “YEAH”, i find pleasure in every ride…on most days like today I choose not to wear a leash. This affords me the freedom of a ballerina turned Matador as i cross-step to the […]
Read MoreQuiver ·09·22·08
September 22, 2008 by admin
Summer came and went away with the fog and left me stranded high and dry as fall arrives and promises better days ahead and whispering swells…
Read Moreitchin’ ·09·18·08
September 18, 2008 by admin
I need to get wet but the home breaks are double-over-ankle at best and so I contemplate a drive south while dreaming of empty southern coves…
Read MoreIcon ·09·15·08
September 15, 2008 by admin
A little birdie dropped in a few days back, urging me to put in my order with Skip Frye…for those of you who don’t know that is akin to calling up Picasso or Leonardo DaVinci and asking them for a painting. The birdie works for Donna, Skip’s wife, and so has his ear…so I’m in! […]
Read MoreBeach, please… ·09·13·08
September 13, 2008 by admin
Been thinking about this break all summer. Nothin but glass to the horizon and perfect little peelers reflecting the setting sun. No swell is forecasted and the lineup is empty, save for the 80lb groms that are tearing it up. You nod as you get in the water, thinking you’re gonna rip and show ’em […]
Read MoreShaka like a polaroid picture… ·09·06·08
September 6, 2008 by admin
The summer swells are shifting and winter’s on its way…it will soon be time for a new 4/3, but trunks still reign supreme. Just barely made it back to Cali after a summer-long East Coast sabbatical, in time for some last minute warm water swells… excited for the inside section at Secrets, pumped for the […]
Read MoreSandwiches & Coup Devilles… ·08·31·08
August 31, 2008 by admin
Here’s a solution for all you Hangry people!
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