Archives

Cali ·01·17·09

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Yeah Laughter ·01·17·09

Surf, eat, sleep, repeat…double session today and more to come in the morning. Swell supposed to stick around for a week and I’m psyched.

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Sunset ·01·16·09

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Here we go ·01·15·09

Funny how everywhere I go everyone is talking about the huge swell that’s on its way. Depending on who you believe it is supposed to come in at well past DOH (doubleoverhead). That’s huge and I find myself thinking that the ubiquity of long range surf forecast websites has got to be a double edged […]

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To the sea with the sun you set ·01·14·09

“Tu es la raison qu’on est tous naitre, you’re our raison d’etre”…hiked into the mountains this evening and was amazed at how calm the world was. Barely a breeze over the Pacific as the sun set over San Miguel Island. The horizon exploded into a soft colorful fade that stretched to every corner of the […]

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Blue Moon ·01·13·09

Here is a Night-blooming Cereus. Rarely seen in the wild but for one midsummer’s night each year, its exqusitely scented flower opens as night falls, then closes forever with the first rays of the morning sun. My friend Ashley Bryan grew this flower and a few of us spent the evening in its glory.

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And so we go ·01·12·09

“All of us have in our veins the exact same percentage of salt in our blood that exists in the ocean…And when we go back to the sea…we are going back from whence we came.” JFK… Took this shot way past sunset this evening with no tripod but a need to capture these last colors […]

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Build ·01·11·09

Nothing quite like building a timberframe barn…

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Sand ·01·10·09

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Spit ·01·10·09

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Moving ·01·09·09

It’s been a slow winter for waves, but they’re out there if you know where to look…

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Reflections, horizons and lineups… ·01·08·09

Been thinking of throwing a few boards, suits, cameras and sleeping bag into the pickup and heading to Baja for some fish tacos and empty breaks. Its been too long since my last trip south and Baja is calling…funny that I too seem to want to fly south in search of warmer waters and long […]

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Wild ·01·07·09

Woke up at 5am, collected my things and headed north with a friend…raced the sun through winding roads, oak groves and rolling hills. Rounding a bend a coyote crossed the road and stopped to watch us fly by…a little further down the road we surprised a huge sow, definitely the biggest wild pig I’ve ever […]

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Covered ·01·06·09

Glad to get back in the water today. Water has gotten cold (low/mid-50s) and the warm-water crowds have flown south for the winter. Surfed Faria til sunset. Beautiful evening glass-off made it look like an ocean of mercury, reflecting every last ray of the setting sun, just beautiful. Hands were close to numb as I […]

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Home Sweet Home ·01·05·09

Landed to a crisp Santa Barbara evening, excited to be back, back to Cali Cali…but already miss Haiti. It may not be on any of your top ten lists of possible vacation spots, but go, visit, you won’t be sorry. Hit me up and I’ll point you in the right direction. Bring on 2009 and […]

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Stoke · 01·04·09

Excited to get back to Cali. My batteries are charged, my notebook full of sketches, big ideas are brewing, and itchin’ to surf.

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Here we go! ·01·03·09

I have resolved to update this blog daily starting today…assuming the internet is within reach and am not lost in some little fishing village somewhere around the world trying to scope out my next potential session. It took me the better part of two weeks to get everything in order and finally The Surfbird is […]

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Surf Trips ·01·02·09

I’ve been thinking a great deal about dedicating more of my 2009 travel to surf adventures…Brazil, New Zealand, France and India are all possibilities for this new year. Here’s a photograph taken on my most recent trip through Bolivia’s High Andes…Yes those colors are real, the high elevation and lack of pollution do some pretty […]

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New Year ·01·01·09

A good time of year for retrospective thought, time to recalibrate the soul and set the odometer to zero. The unexamined life is a little like running up a downward moving escalator, you spend lots of energy doing it and it’s kind of fun, but rarely does it lead anywhere before the security guard tells […]

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Homage Paid ·12·30·08

We’ve spent most of our time in Haiti at the beach. Took a small boat out to a tiny island of sand for a picnic and snorkeling…Took this shot as a little peeler crashed into shore. I really like this photo for its blurs and splashes and composition and colors and it really reminds me […]

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You Should Have Been Here Yesterdayyyye ·12·28·08

A photo from a year ago, a beautifully large swell came down from Alaska and graced us with three days of glorious surf…

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Advice ·12·26·08

Was given a 1964 book titled “SURFING” as a Christmas gift, lots of cool graphics to inspire the next round of t-shirt designs…this image was titled “Pearling is Perilous”.

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Santa Claus is Coming to Town ·12·25·08

Not a bad place to spend Christmas with the family.

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Haitian Shapers? ·12·24·08

Was driving through Cap Haitian, in northern Haiti, when I saw my first Haitian surfboard shaper…There was something about the way this guy was looking at the wooden planks that just screamed “I’m going to shape some Haitian Alaias”. He grabbed the four boards as I snapped the photo and is probably in his shaping […]

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Distant Cousins ·12·21·08

You should see some of the waves and shore breaks that these little dugout canoes can handle.

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Haiti ·12·19·08

Evenings at the beach, Prestige beer in hand, watching the sun go down over Isle de la Gonave…

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New Day ·12·17·08

Took this shot on a trip through Baja. Having spent the entire trip surfing, we took advantage of a flat spell and headed to the Sea of Cortez for some fishing & exploring. Woke up early the next morning to this incredible sunrise.

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Wanted ·12·16·08

A shot of a dehydrated surfer, lost in Zambia, circa mid-2007…If found, please return to the waters of southern california for immediate resuscitation.

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Gifts ·12·15·08

A post surf shot of a big swell that came through this time last year, throwing sea spray high into the heavens, blending the line between ocean and sky and softening everything out of focus. Was thinking today about the ritual of gift giving and how the most important gift we can ever give has […]

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Go South ·12·14·08

Went for a surf check at Mesalane. The wind is on it and the swell angle still too steep. Was hoping to get wet one last time before getting on a plane to Hispaniola later today. Excited for my three week sabbatical in the Caribbean. Had a staring contest with this little white eye on […]

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Quiet Storm ·12·13·08

“and all the things i tried to say were never easy to explain…”

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Alone ·12·12·08

Got in the water as the sun was setting. 6 people out, three of them groms…water’s still warm and full of fish. The swell direction is way to steep and passing us right by on its way to Mexico, only the occasional waist high peeler gives any proof of its existence. Didn’t think I’d get […]

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1Fish 2Fish RedFish BlueFish ·12·11·08

Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don’t matter and those who matter don’t mind. -Dr. Suess

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Balance ·12·10·08

Not a great shot but always a fun spot, look at that little peeler. A two day flat spell is the calm before the storm. Forecasts are calling for well overhead this weekend…the butterflies in my stomach are waking and the knees starting to shake with excitement…where do I go? North or South? What board […]

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Wanderlust ·12·09·08

I tend to get a little itchy this time of year as the travel bugs start biting and so will soon be off to Hispaniola for three weeks. Went to Mesalane for an evening surf check. No surf to be had. Came home to a brand new Ukulele–Santa came early this year. Time to practice.

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Aquarius ·12·08·08

Spent another sunset in the ocean. Surfed Faria again, a little slow but seemed to build as the session went on. An in-between-sets epiphany at the importance of water in my life. Rewarded by another great sunset- almost as though Monet had spilled his palette into the glassy sea as it mirrored a sky full […]

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Thanks ·12·07·08

Over 4000 troops have died in Iraq to date, and think about all the Iraqi civilians that have also lost their lives. Walked by the memorial to those troops tonight as fireworks were going off…thankful that I am not covered by the oppressive envelope of war, lucky to be free of war’s worries.

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California ·12·05·08

Its been an incredible week- seems all I’ve been doing is surfing surfing surfing.  Went down to C Street today for a surf check, surprisingly the swell was not showing, but the locals were.  Talked to some ol’timers in the parking lot for a while, the folds, wrinkles and lines of there faces etched in […]

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TryAngle ·12·02·08

Surfed Faria today, again surprised to find that the swell is holding up. This is one of the most picturesque backdrops against which to surf, the view from the lineup as the evening sun sets fire to the golden mist rolling over the coastal buttes is breathtaking. Did not have my camera, so here is […]

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TipTime ·12·02·08

Went down the road today to C Street. Pleasantly surprised at the head high sets rolling through. Crowded but fun. Ended up surfing for three hours. Had not expected the size and so took out the 9’3 Herbie–spent most of the session on the nose. Excited to see what I find in the morning.

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Airstream ·11·27·08

Had thanksgiving in Santa Cruz…lots of pies!

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Perspective ·11·25·08

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Sunshine ·11·23·08

No surf today… dark, grey and windy. Drew the opposite.

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Through The Looking Glass ·11·22·08

What a day. Woke up early and went for the audible by deciding for a mid-morning session instead of joining the dawn patrol…back to bed. Got up at a reasonable hour and drove south past super crowded shoulder-high Rincon. I love this time of day, alone in the car, pumping some tunes and checking all […]

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Drive by ·11·20·08

Drove by this secret spot and had to stop and shoot. Only had my little elph camera and the resolution sucks, but the mood is right…WAVES!

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Freeze ·11·17·08

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The Queen ·11·14·08

Seems like everyone was out tonight…including the queen of the coast in all her majestic glory. Head high offshore perfection. Beautiful!

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FIRE ·11·13·08

The view from my porch…Lots of friends out there in those hills tonight, some firefighter friends, some homeowner friends, some surf buddies…be thankful you’re at your computer and not about to lose your quiver, house, life.

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Santa Anas ·11·12·08

Light Santa Ana winds swept in this evening to clean things up. Headed down to this secret spot for a sunset session.  I brought my water camera to shoot some sunset shots and was rewarded by both a beautiful sunset and shoulder high sets.  I always have fun here.

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Just Swell ·11·11·08

Went for a hike a few days back. The flat spell sent me to the mountains and there, to my surprise, I found surf. An oak tree had recently come down across the path and had been rounded to open up the way…I thought about counting the rings when like a Rorschach inkblot test the […]

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Between Sets ·11·07·08

Waiting for waves while the little fish play with the little piggies…

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Yes we can! ·11·04·08

Took this shot in Haiti. I do not usually like manipulating photos, but I was playing with the features of my new camera and those yellows deserved attention…I also do not usually like elections manipulated, but thankfully they weren’t and our man Barack WON!

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What came first? ·11·03·08

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Glass Love ·11·02·08

It rained yesterday and the 10ft swell they were calling for came in at head high…went north to avoid some of the SB runoff, got some good ones. Tried for three sessions, but the wind came up and stopped us at two. Still stoked.

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Liger ·10·31·08

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Colorwheel ·10·30·08

You guessed it…it’s flat again, no surf but a nice pastel sunset.

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Think ·10·29·08

“All that we are is the result of what we have thought. The mind is everything. What we think we become.” -Buddha.

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Indian Summer ·10·28·08

Spent the weekend in San Diego…surfed 7 times in three days. Water was summer warm and clear in most spots…Surfed IB on Saturday morning, paddled right by a dead seal and a nasty ass used condom, should have turned around and headed for shore but the head high glassy faces were too mesmerizing… Hope those […]

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Flat spell ·10·23·08

Got back from the East Coast to a pacified ocean.Went to Rincon to get wet and plug back in. Dolphins playing, pelicans fishing, nobody out and no inside peelers…plenty of fun floating on the log and slowing way down. With a wavecount of zero, I caught my first and last ankle breaker of a wave […]

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Symbolism ·10·18·08

Radical Surfing…

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legacy ·10·13·08

October 13 gives me pause time to reflect and be a beautiful weekend in maine working the woods as if ten again working by dad’s side the sound of a chainsaw forever reminding me of him salty sweat mosquito spray hugs we cut down a dead tree whose rings numbered 110 all the way to […]

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deep undercover ·10·05·08

We are what we think.

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word. ·10·01·08

I saw this yesterday and had to go back to shoot it. My brother just turned me on to telephonic staple art ( yeah I just made that word up, what) and I’m fascinated. It is fun to think of telephone poles as individuals, far from static they take on the evolving identity of their […]

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Outside ·09·29·08

Sometimes we need the ocean to wipe the slate clean…

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Ole! ·09·27·08

Surfed fun little waves today. Nice waist high peelers created for nose riding. With a big smile and at times a loud “YEAH”, i find pleasure in every ride…on most days like today I choose not to wear a leash. This affords me the freedom of a ballerina turned Matador as i cross-step to the […]

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If Brancusi surfed. ·09·25·08

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Quiver ·09·22·08

Summer came and went away with the fog and left me stranded high and dry as fall arrives and promises better days ahead and whispering swells…

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itchin’ ·09·18·08

I need to get wet but the home breaks are double-over-ankle at best and so I contemplate a drive south while dreaming of empty southern coves…

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Icon ·09·15·08

A little birdie dropped in a few days back, urging me to put in my order with Skip Frye…for those of you who don’t know that is akin to calling up Picasso or Leonardo DaVinci and asking them for a painting. The birdie works for Donna, Skip’s wife, and so has his ear…so I’m in! […]

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Beach, please… ·09·13·08

Been thinking about this break all summer. Nothin but glass to the horizon and perfect little peelers reflecting the setting sun. No swell is forecasted and the lineup is empty, save for the 80lb groms that are tearing it up. You nod as you get in the water, thinking you’re gonna rip and show ’em […]

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Sole Surfing. ·09·10·08

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Rothko was goofy footed! ·09·08·08

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Shaka like a polaroid picture… ·09·06·08

The summer swells are shifting and winter’s on its way…it will soon be time for a new 4/3, but trunks still reign supreme. Just barely made it back to Cali after a summer-long East Coast sabbatical, in time for some last minute warm water swells… excited for the inside section at Secrets, pumped for the […]

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Sandwiches & Coup Devilles… ·08·31·08

Here’s a solution for all you Hangry people!

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