Archives
Nice curl 8·15·09
August 15, 2009 by admin
The boat is complete…will have more shots soon. Excited to be back to SB in a week…bring on the Pacific Ocean.
Read MoreFast 8·06·09
August 7, 2009 by admin
This photo makes me think of how fast summer is passing by…
Read MoreJust Married 8·05·09
August 5, 2009 by admin
My brother and now new sister just got married today…well technically they eloped, then got in a boat we build four years ago and sailed away…but not before we were able to attach some cans to the transom and stick a just married sign on the boat in proper wedding fashion…Congratulations you pirates! Photo taken […]
Read MoreAlmost Raffle Time… 8·04·09
by admin
You could win this boat for $20! Will have details for you soon.
Read MoreAshley Bryan 8·03·09
August 3, 2009 by admin
The summer sun decided to play today…and the fog ran away.
Read MoreNeeds Oil 7·31·09
by admin
Yeah yeah, I am really happy with this shape, needs a little oil and she’ll be ready to go…assuming we ever get some real surf around here 🙂 I’ll post more photos of bottom contours and can email shots of other details if ya want…Dimensions: 6’6″ X 15″&7/8 X 3/4″
Read MoreKid built… 7·29·09
July 29, 2009 by admin
Half way through the boat building camp…and she’s coming right along.
Read MoreFog Log Flog…What? 7·28·09
July 28, 2009 by admin
Got so many surf reports and epic-session-stories these last few days I figured I should just fly home and get ready for miracle summer swell #2…but then I remembered the all-time-offshore-and-glassy-head-high-plus-swells that Maine is so well known for and figured I’d wait it out here…in the fog.
Read MoreWoodworking 7·27·09
by admin
Here we go…glued up a blank and started hand planing my first Alaia…will have shots of the finished product very soon…so fun!
Read MoreNo surf Here 7·26·09
by admin
Had my fingers crossed that some of that west coast miracle swell would sneak over to the east coast…this is all I found, knee high shore break…Man I’m blowing it, should be in SB right now…
Read MoreUp & Up 07·23·09
July 23, 2009 by admin
Started making an Alaia today…will post photos of the process sometime soon. Supposed to be a little bump making its way towards Maine this weekend and I’ve decided that some wake surfing might have to happen if the swell is a noshow.
Read MoreLooking back 07·22·09
July 22, 2009 by admin
The epic surf never made it here today, the storm weakened and ankle breakers were about the best thing around and so with that I post a photo taken almost exactly a month ago on a nice day in LA Co. (by the way, he makes the section and glides down the line for quite […]
Read MoreOde to Goldsworthy 07·21·09
July 21, 2009 by admin
Calling for surf in the morning, water’s warmed up to a balmy 50 Degrees Fahrenheit…can’t wait to duck dive.
Read MorePractically off the charts 07·19·09
July 19, 2009 by admin
Life on an island has a tendency to slow way down yet somehow days fly by…checked the surf three times today, it’s definitely building and we might actually get in early this week and in turn you might get to see secret spot #32 going off somewhere off the coast of Maine…come on olas!
Read MoreBig Plans 07·16·09
July 16, 2009 by admin
We just finished the first week of boatbuilding…and this is what she looks like. What a joy it is to work with wood, with your hands, with kids, with family–so fun! Have big plans to shape another surfboard and a few Alaias this summer…maybe I’ll start this weekend. No surf here in Maine, so I […]
Read MoreRed 07·14·09
July 14, 2009 by admin
Wouldn’t mind being in Costa right about now…a little birdie told me it’s going off…:)
Read MoreIsland time 07·13·09
July 13, 2009 by admin
Island time means dial-up internet…but no rush-hour commute…Here is a shot of a Beach Rose on a foggy day.
Read MoreSurf Maine 07·10·09
July 10, 2009 by admin
Am off to Maine today for 6 weeks. I run a boat building camp there (for kids ages 7-18) during the summer and am stoked to go. Check out the website www.islesfordboatworks.org, it’s a great program and great fun, though I have to rebuild the site…we have not updated it in a while and it […]
Read MoreHome Dulce Home 07·07·09
by admin
If you’re ever in the neighborhood make sure to stop by this place and stay a while…
Read MoreGo dude 07·06·09
by admin
This wave was right around the corner from our hostel…(for scale look for the guy about to drop in on the right shoulder).
Read MoreOn the Corner 07·05·09
by admin
Found an exact Central American replica of Rincon on this last trip…the cobbled point, the long rides, even the way the trees hug the beach were the same…less of course the crazy crowd. Here is a shot of a local grom checking it…
Read MoreEast End 07·04·09
by admin
One of the friendliest places on earth…a true definition of community.
Read MoreCoup d’Etat 07·03·09
July 8, 2009 by admin
Wow what a crazy trip to Central America…we planned on a two week trip to Honduras and ended up having to make our way out of the country about a week in after a coup shut down all the roads and airports and things got messy…after quite a bit of maneuvering we found ourselves in […]
Read MoreGood ol’days 06·28·09
June 28, 2009 by admin
You can still sometimes wonder off the beaten path and find a perfect left with nobody out…
Read MoreBreaking free 06·22·09
June 22, 2009 by admin
I really liked this study of negative and positive space and would challenge you to think about which one is more powerful in your life.
Read MoreLoggin 06·21·09
June 21, 2009 by admin
Ain’t summer Gr8? Packing my bags as we speak and flying south tonight to Honduras…stoked. There’s no internet where I am going and so I am given an opportunity to rethink how I do things…I started this site as a metaphorical branding iron–red hot, ready to poke me into action–so that I’d be motivated to […]
Read MoreA great day 06·19·09
June 19, 2009 by admin
Yeah weekend! Almost time to pack the bags for Honduras…so stoked.
Read MoreHave some more skinny 06·18·09
June 18, 2009 by admin
Wow did I get some epic sessions full of lefts in LA these last couple days…yes, I surf goofy and this south swell is exactly what the doctor ordered to cure my summertime SB no-surf blues…Here is a shot from a cliff south of Co. Line, definitely one of those semi-secret spots with zero crowd […]
Read MoreTo Panga 06·17·09
June 17, 2009 by admin
I come down to LA about once a week to work with a client whose office is right on the beach…surfed Topanga this sunrise and had a blast…here is a pretty mediocre shot of the view from my office. I can see Sunset and Topanga from here and they’re going off with the changing tide. […]
Read More4hr sesh. 06·16·09
June 16, 2009 by admin
Made it to LA Co. today and hit up some great spots…had a 4hr. long evening sesh. full of lefts, lefts, lefts. This photo doesn’t do the session justice. It was consistently shoulder to headhigh (with a few overhead sets) and the kelp was glassing it off…so fun!
Read MoreLife at sea 06·15·09
June 15, 2009 by admin
Lowers was going off today (as reported by a little birdie) and SB was just not…Did not get in today and starting to get a little dehydrated. Am off to LA county for two days in the morning for some hydration therapy and salt baths…see you there.
Read MoreCamp 06·14·09
June 14, 2009 by admin
What a fun weekend…found waves everyday and even had a couple double sessions…went camping, did yoga, swam in a very warm Pacific, met new peeps, enjoyed old ones, ate some tasty food and smiled smiled smiled.
Read MoreEvening Glass 06·13·09
June 13, 2009 by admin
Had some great waves here yesterday, and the swell is supposed to stick around through the week…on my way out the door to find some more.
Read MoreWaterproof 06·12·09
June 12, 2009 by admin
YEAH, just got out of session number two…waist high glassy, maybe even as big as bellybutton high, really long rides all the way to the cove. Yeah! Got a new waterproof/shockproof/stoke-giving/ugly-looking/but-great-photo-taking digital camera yesterday and put it through it’s paces today…And just as advertised I am stoked. Everyone looking for a waterproof/shockproof/stoke-giving/ugly-looking/but-great-photo-taking digital camera should […]
Read MoreOptimism 06·12·09
by admin
Optimism is waking up to waist high sets and thinking, or knowing that you’ll find head high surf further down the road…on a day when they weren’t even calling for anything past knee high.
Read MorePolaroid 06·11·09
by admin
Found a little surf today…little being the operative word, but still fun.
Read MoreBlink 06·10·09
June 11, 2009 by admin
I really like this shot of El’Marinero. It was shot in maine on a cold winter night, it’s about to snow and the raging Nor’Easter is bringing in some serious swell…its taken at the beach while checking the surf. I am posting this shot because El’M. just got back from sea today with only 9 […]
Read MoreEpic 06·08·09
June 8, 2009 by admin
Wow, talk about flat. Am excited about this week’s roadtrips, one evening sesh planned for up north and at least one dawn patrol south…wish it were way way south like to Playa Negra, but that’ll have to wait a few months.
Read MoreMake your own 06·07·09
June 7, 2009 by admin
Not much out there these days (locally anyways- the roadtrips have been fun) and so I figured I’d make some waves of my own…
Read MoreDream a little dream 06·06·09
June 6, 2009 by admin
Don’t you wish you could fall asleep and wake up here…
Read MoreTGIF 06·05·09
June 5, 2009 by admin
A buddy called me last night reporting that he had just had one of the top five sessions of his life…an evening glass off sesh at a spot not too far from here on a day where most everyone I know (including me) had written off finding much surf in SB. Goes to show that […]
Read MoreCorrer Las Olas 06·04·09
June 4, 2009 by admin
Just bought a ticket to Honduras, not sure that I’ll find much surf but will try…maybe I should have gone to Costa instead!
Read More…and the living is easy 06·03·09
June 3, 2009 by admin
Drove south today and got in here…some fun waist2chest sets…looks like summer is all about roadtrips and distant breaks.
Read MoreJune Gloom 06·02·09
by admin
The size of the crowd is directly proportional to the temporal extent of the flat spell…huh? In other words, the Bu should not be this crowded except that these peelers are as good as it’s been since I left for the East Coast.
Read MoreInspiration comes in waves 05·30·09
May 30, 2009 by admin
“The greatest resource of the ocean is not material but the boundless spring of inspiration and well-being we gain from her” -Jacques Cousteau
Read MoreDSea 05·28·09
May 28, 2009 by admin
Went out to the FDR memorial but no surf was had…it’s looking a lot like the Pacific ocean these days…FLAT!
Read MoreSea St. 05·27·09
May 27, 2009 by admin
A photo from C street, DC. Posting it makes me realize how much I’d rather be shooting waves…or the pier. But I guess I should smell the flowers and count my blessings that at least I know what drives me, what I love, what I seemingly could not live without…SURF!
Read MoreVroom 05·26·09
May 26, 2009 by admin
Rolled into DC last night for two days of work and play before rolling north to Rhode Island, and hopefully a little surf. Took this opportunity to upload some photos. Am without computer on this East Coast trip so the daily photos will be uploaded in batches. Hope some of you are getting some surf.
Read MoreSo good 05·25·09
by admin
A picture of my brother and me at a dear friends wedding this weekend…”I love love, I love marriage, I love weddings. They’re the best” -Hank
Read MoreParty Prius 05·22·09
by admin
Drove from NYSea to VA…8 hours of driving, 7 dollars worth of gas, ten playlists, one yard sale, one diner, and 5 friends in the Party Prius!
Read MoreNYSea 05·21·09
by admin
Flew into JFK tonight…already missing the surf. Does not help that we’ve been sin olas for the last week!
Read Morerunon 05·19·09
May 19, 2009 by admin
Went into the hills to find peace above the clouds covering the view of rush hour below the sound of birds singing to the setting sun and came down centered and ready to follow the path…but still no surf.
Read MoreFade 05·18·09
May 18, 2009 by admin
This winter flew right by at 99mph…Summer once seemed like a far off place, but here we are, its arrival forcing the memories of winter sessions into the past tense. It was a weirdly inconsistent winter by all accounts, yet somehow I feel like I’ve never surfed as much. Off to the east coast in […]
Read MoreSanDy 05·17·09
May 17, 2009 by admin
Spent the weekend in the 858/619…found some surf, had some beers, took some photos, ate some food, made some friends and smiled alllllllllllllllllllll the way home.
Read MoreEl Rancho 05·16·09
May 16, 2009 by admin
Drove around all morning checking every spot from here to Cardiff…almost got in at the reef but wanted a little more size so drove back south and got in at El Rancho, for some chest high close outs…punchy and fun. Might have to take some logs out tomorrow for the morning session.
Read MoreThirst 05·15·09
May 15, 2009 by admin
Headed south today to kook it up with some warm water friends just north of the border…excited to hit up all my favorite breaks.
Read More“Review” Mirror 05·12·09
May 12, 2009 by admin
One of the very first surf shots I ever took, back in 1995 in Rhode Island with my very first camera- a Pentax K1000…just recently came across these–funny how life so often comes full circle…
Read MoreEarly bird 05·10·09
May 10, 2009 by admin
Got the midnight surf session to ourselves…a little texture on the water but fun waist high rollers were consumed.
Read MoreVaquero de olas 05·08·09
by admin
If you didn’t get in today then you didn’t try…wow, there were some good sessions to be had. The sunset sets were ridiculous.
Read MoreFire Water 05·07·09
May 8, 2009 by admin
The same Santa Ana’s that have been driving this fire have been holding up faces and turning this surprise swell into some fun sessions. Checked way too many spots today and sifting through the junk found a spot down south and jumped in…good to get wet on such a hot day, crazy to be surfing […]
Read MoreFirefight 05·06·09
May 6, 2009 by admin
Santa Barbara’s burning! Keep those risking their lives for ours in your minds and hearts, and be thankful…
Read MoreFlying 05·05·09
by admin
Got in this evening at the Carp go to spot…whenever everything is nonexistent or slop (like tonight), this wave offers up little jewels of stoke. A fun session with friends and a nice floater to end the evening. Here is a shot of a break down the way that I checked before getting in. Go […]
Read MoreWisdom 05·04·09
May 4, 2009 by admin
“It is important that we look at wrinkles as signs of wisdom and not as scars meant to be removed. We need to destroy the idea that perfection is a static thing…We need to start realizing how our world is so much richer because of time and use, and celebrate that richness, celebrate it’s mark. […]
Read MoreSloppy Joe’s 05·03·09
by admin
Got rincon to ourselves this afternoon for about 10 minutes of pure fun as we traded sloppy wave after sloppy wave…water was almost summer warm and the waves, well, they were all over the place. Had a great time. Here is a shot of a good friend trickin’ it out.
Read MoreFox 05·02·09
May 3, 2009 by admin
Jumped in at Rincon this afternoon…sloppy but good to get some waves. Supposed to get better as the week goes on. Trevor was out on his new Ryan Lovelace hull and tearing it up…man that thing gets some speed. The talk in the lineup was that Costa sounds like the place to be in June…and […]
Read More…à la plage 05·01·09
May 1, 2009 by admin
Went to the beach…but no surf was had…somebody asked me if I crop my photos (and the answer is no, what you see is what I shot…exactly as I composed the frame) and if not then why is this photo (and other photos) a different size, and the answer is that sometimes (rarely) I shoot […]
Read MoreSurfbird of Paradise 04·30·09
April 30, 2009 by admin
I’ve always thought that Ralph Waldo Emerson nailed it when he said that “The Earth laughs in flowers”…and along the same lines perhaps the sea smiles in waves.
Read MoreFlat tires me 04·29·09
April 29, 2009 by admin
Have made the most of this flat spell and finished my taxes, sold my truck, completed my first album, climbed Mt. Everest, worked on my ninja tricks, decided that I want to be a firetruck when I grow up…or more likely have done nothing but check the surf everyday for the last week and not […]
Read MoreEmma Wood’a, Coulda, Shoulda 04·27·09
April 27, 2009 by admin
Checked it this morning and nada…checked it this evening and even less. Was still going to get in for a paddle and the wind turned me away. Here is a shot from a break down the road, taken en route to LAX to fly to Mex last week. How I wish those waves were still […]
Read MoreJ’y vais 04·26·09
by admin
So after a week of crazy surf (12 sessions in 4 days) I have returned to SB and somehow not surfed the last two days…am excited to bring that loosing streak to a close with tomorrow’s dawn patrol. On a side note, I think a friend may have just convinced me that there is absolutely […]
Read MoreDaydream 04·25·09
April 25, 2009 by admin
Didn’t find much surf today, spent some time checking the spots and rockin’out to Modest Mouse but didn’t get in. Somehow I didn’t mind too much as I’m still riding the Cabo stoke. Here is a shot of La Roca after I got out yesterday to get on a plane. Such a fun wave, and […]
Read MoreVamanos 04·24·09
April 24, 2009 by admin
Am back in cali, and with a little luck will get to surf this south swell all over again. Looking forward to hitting some of the local spots these next few days. Sad to think of putting on a wetsuit…anybody wanna go to Cabo next week?
Read MoreBest Day yet… 04·24·09
by admin
The rising sun cast its rays on the biggest day yet. Paddled out to La Roca, got two fast rights and then moved to the left for the rest of the session. Got some crazy drops and carved them up all the way to the inside rock…paddled over to the left at old man’s as […]
Read MoreD.O.H. 04·23·09
April 23, 2009 by admin
Today’s dawn patrolmen were two locals and me and my brother Ruben. Complete glass, water warm as apple pie and the sets were consistently head high. My first wave was a screamer! After breakfast we packed up the rental and headed to the east cape for some size and diversity. It was empty wave after […]
Read MoreLuxuryville 04·23·09
by admin
A good friend asked me about my day…dawn patrol.. jaccuzi.. breakfast… hammock.. session 2…pool/yoga…water, whole lot of water…snack…shade tree…lunch… session 3…water/sunscreen break…evening session (#4)…pool/jacuzzi…fish dinner…lots of margaritas…exploration…squidrow…sleep….repeat. I might never leave this place!
Read MoreFour sessions 04·22·09
April 22, 2009 by admin
You’ll have to pardon my lackluster photo…been surfing all day and barely got off a shot. Here is La Roca as seen from my balcony between session 3 and 4. I have noodle arms and my head is congested with stoke. So good today, bigger sets were well overhead and it’s supposed to be bigger […]
Read MoreBuen’Dia 04·22·09
by admin
A beautiful sunrise this morning. It’s 7:30am and I’ve already had my morning sesh. Got in at 6 right after I took this shot and got some good ones. The swell has built overnight and is consistently shoulder high and supposed to build with the falling tide. yeeyeah!
Read MoreEs mejor que nada 04·21·09
April 21, 2009 by admin
Cabo is grand. Rolled up midday, jumped into the rental and made our way to this little magical spot. Settled in, met all the locals in the lineup, trunked it into the evening and got some great rides. Only about waist to chest today, but supposed to build to overhead by Thursday. Stoked!
Read MoreTrompe L’oeil 04·20·09
April 20, 2009 by admin
Drove right by potentially epic rincon this morning on my way to LA…and if you want a taste of what I (and most of you) missed read Kyle’s post for today…darn it, sometimes work just plain gets in the way of fun. Here is a shot from an LA spot I checked out after a […]
Read MoreSandstone 04·19·09
April 19, 2009 by admin
No surf today but a nice hike…am all packed up and ready to finally fly south to warm empty headhigh lineups. Come on buena suerte!
Read MoreClown Car 04·18·09
by admin
Found three friends, piled them into my truck and went surf hunting at high noon…not much to be found but did bag a few choice sets at a local rivermouth south of here. A beautiful hot sunny day made it clear that summer is right around the corner and with it maybe some fun sessions […]
Read MoreWhere’s it at? 04·17·09
April 17, 2009 by admin
Flat is the sea..got rincon to myself this evening 🙂 Fun to paddle around and watch the sun fade.
Read MoreAlternatives 04·16·09
April 16, 2009 by admin
“You might feel like a lone individual in the world, but may be the world to a lone individual” -Andrew Garcia
Read MoreBlue Square 04·15·09
by admin
Surfed down in LA today with a dear friend. He hasn’t surfed in a while but is more stoked than most. Bought my ticket to Cabo for next week and getting really excited about surfing warm water. Crossing my fingers for swell.
Read MoreAdios 04·14·09
April 15, 2009 by admin
Went back to this spot this morning before the wind hit it. A consistent shoulder to headhigh with a few juicy overhead sets…super fast fun rides. Not sure how many different ways you can photograph a certain break, but here is another entry in the Lil’Con series.
Read MoreTimber! 04·13·09
April 13, 2009 by admin
So as surfers we tend to exaggerate a little when it comes to our favorite pastime. We stretch the truth when recounting that one epic day we had no too long ago, or maybe in estimating the size of the surf when giving a buddy the surf report (in hopes of enticing them to the […]
Read MoreIntersection 04·12·09
April 12, 2009 by admin
Had a great day yesterday. Got in at this little point on my way to Ventura and got it good- well better than expected. Definitely a wind swell but some fun rides as the waves jacked right up on the monster (what i’ve been calling the hungry seaweed covered rock lying right inside the takeoff […]
Read MoreDouble Down 04·11·09
April 11, 2009 by admin
I hate to double post, but you should all be making your way towards Ventura this evening…and celebrating with us at the Buenaventura Artshow at the Red Brick Gallery in downtown Ventura, CA (315 E. Main Street, from 7 to 11pm). There will be music by Mr. Dope America, drinks provided by Nectar Ales, surf/skate […]
Read MoreYearning 04·10·09
by admin
No waves were had today. Wish I were back in Big Sur…definitely the biggest surf I’ve had this winter. Here is a shot from our first evening, after making camp and checking the evening glassoff.
Read MoreInspired 04·09·09
April 9, 2009 by admin
Got up early to check G-land and nada, nothing at the Queen either, so settled on a mid-afternoon hike up to Inspiration Pt…Santa Barbara is silent and at peace at those heights. Thought of this quote by Ralph Waldo Emerson- “Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air”. Seemed fitting for this […]
Read MoreVictory @ C 04·08·09
April 8, 2009 by admin
“…And hope does not disappoint us”…Was in Ventucky this pm and with a burrito in hand went to the water to watch the chaos. It is the surfer’s spirit that allows us to hope a little hope that we might find a secluded cove and a head high peeler, even when we know it’s blowing […]
Read MoreOnward 04·07·09
April 7, 2009 by admin
Surf’s been great these last couple days and I somehow find myself just wanting more…one friend got the longest shakage she’s ever gotten at the Queen while another friend got a local point all to himself this morning at shoulder high…surfed north this pm and found some fun ones in a leeward cove, the clouds […]
Read MoreCome Party 04·06·09
April 6, 2009 by admin
Come party with us this saturday in Ventura…plenty of cool art will be on silent auction, beer will flow and the Malloys have donated the use of their film One Track Mind to get you all to roll up…tell your friends, bring your peeps and see you there!
Read MoreFreebird 04·05·09
April 5, 2009 by admin
Wonderful to play all day with great ol’friends. Surfed Secrets this morning on the high tide and had some clean fast lefts…it seems to be the go-to spot whenever I am in SD. Spent some time on the cliffs above Blacks getting the bird’s eye view…sunset session at T’s on longboards. Feels like summervacation. yeah […]
Read MoreBalance 04·04·09
by admin
Somehow found a little surf this afternoon at RoadsEnd, fun times and warm water…really starting to feel like summer. Here’s a shot from yesterday’s surf check…
Read MoreThree little birds 04·03·09
April 4, 2009 by admin
“Singin sweet songs…Of melodies pure and true,…Sayin, this is my message to you-ou-ou……………….Singin: dont worry (dont worry) bout a thing,…cause every little thing gonna be all right!….” -Bob Marley
Read MoreSurprise! 04·02·09
April 2, 2009 by admin
Was surfing this spot this pm when out of nowhere a grey whale breached completely out of the water and landed with the biggest of splashes…it was close enough for us to smell it’s fishy breath. In retrospect it was quite an awe-inspiring event, but in those first few seconds of its leap into the […]
Read MoreMi pequeño secreto 04·01·09
April 1, 2009 by admin
Was pleasantly surprised to find these little ankle snappers this evening. Took this shot and jumped in…water was warmish and I surfed ’til dark. Fun to be in the pacific ocean, it really centers my being.
Read MoreI Heart Surf 04·01·09
by admin
My first car was a ’69 cherry red bug..and there is something about this surf rig that is quite romantic. Not in the lets-hold-hands-and-whisper-sweet-nothings kind of way, but in the all-we-need-are-a-couple-of-boards-and-the-open-road sort of romance. It screams independence and free-spirits, and is the latest addition to the SurfRigs photo project. Time to hit the open road…
Read MoreBlack Sheep 03·31·09
March 31, 2009 by admin
I’ve come to realize that some of my favorite people are other’s black sheep…conformity is far from a necessity and it is often those that fall furthest from the familial or societal tree that are the most interesting. Not much in the way of surf today, but still got in this evening. The small glassy […]
Read MoreNimble 03·31·09
by admin
Just a quick post to say that if you haven’t tried yoga yet, you should, your surfboard will thank you (for all the dope new tricks and aerials you’ll be able to do). I started doing yoga this past summer and was told to give it 4 to 6 weeks (assuming you go at least […]
Read MorePlayground 03·30·09
March 30, 2009 by admin
Went down the road this afternoon for some waves. Got there right as the after-work crowd was showing up and by the looks of the way-more-full-than-it-should-be parking lot, it looked like everybody’s favorite break was really going off…ran down to the beach to check it and take some photos and actually laughed out loud…only about […]
Read MoreEchoes 03·30·09
by admin
Here’s a shot to match the echoeing memories of a great weekend spent in pursuit of surf and adventure.
Read MoreContinuity 03·29·09
March 29, 2009 by admin
Swell picked up overnight with the wind…the bay messy and closed out at way overhead. Spent some time on the cliffs watching the surf, then packed up the Number Two and headed back south towards home. Really enjoyed the drive, we live in a pretty incredibly pretty state.
Read MoreBig Sur-F 03·28·09
by admin
Woke up early this morning with a long walk to the cove for a surf check. A bay full of head-high+ peaks, nobody out and a morning full of hopes. Excited to spend some time going left! Suited up and jumped in with Mr. SkeetSkeet, Mrs. Turbo and El’Spencito. A half-mile paddle out through crystal […]
Read MoreRoad Trip 03·27·09
by admin
Surfed rincon this morning…nice and glassy, waist high and super fun…then went home and met up with the SD folk, we loaded up the Number Two (of Siestas y Olas fame) and headed north to find surf. They left SD yesterday but were slowed by a flat tire…and sure enough, an hour up the road, […]
Read MoreHumor 03·26·09
March 26, 2009 by admin
Make sure to scroll down for today’s other two photos…This particular shot is a self-portrait of yours truly and the Teahupo’o Tree in downtown SB. Ever since I first walked by this bush/tree I have pretended to surf it. It is the perfect, albeit very dry, “green room”. It walls right up and you can […]
Read MoreFire Flowers 03·26·09
by admin
No surf today, so I went hiking into the fire lands and happened upon this scene. Dead black trees surrounded by lively yellow spring flowers…nature taking its course.
Read MoreWhere the wild things are 03·26·09
by admin
Am off to Big Sur this weekend and will not be posting anything for the next few days…but will post stuff retroactively when I get back…going north to find some surf!
Read MoreLoitering 03·25·09
March 25, 2009 by admin
Funny how you can go to the same break and shoot it a million different ways, every time seeing it differently, noticing something new. Maybe a little like going to that same break and surfing a million different waves, each session uniquely new and different…been going to this spot a lot lately, each time seeing […]
Read MoreConnect 03·24·09
March 24, 2009 by admin
“Make your move, reach out, bridge the chasm…we all have to jump sometime”–anonymous, heard at a local SB watering hole this evening and thought it fitting in light of yesterday’s post…so, yeah, jump!
Read MoreJump 03·23·09
March 23, 2009 by admin
“I’ve been absolutely terrified every moment of my life, and I’ve never let it keep me from doing a single thing I wanted to do.” -Georgia O’Keefe
Read MoreCashing in that Surf Check 03·23·09
by admin
Up early and checked a number of spots before I found just the right one…kinda felt a little like goldilocks. Here’s a shot from my back yard break, not really anything there this morning on account of the highhhhh tide, but be on the look out for some fun ones here early this pm if […]
Read MoreArt Night 03·22·09
March 22, 2009 by admin
Didn’t really break out the camera today…but did take a shot at watercolors. Not necessarily ready for the Louvre yet, but fun to play with color and thought. No surf today, wind was all over it, not even a shot at the evening glass off. So I played in the mountains, complete with hail and, […]
Read MoreStoke 03·21·09
March 21, 2009 by admin
So good to share today with so many cool kids…we opened that skate park up in proper fashion. Good to give back to kids who don’t have much, fun to share in their stoke. On the flip side of things, I saw Thomas Campbell’s surf movie The Present last night and am still buzzing. The […]
Read MoreEquinox PSA 03·20·09
March 20, 2009 by admin
So you can scroll down for today’s photo, but I want to use this space to invite you all to a huge party tomorrow to help launch the Fillmore Skate Park, in Ventura, California. I will be there representin’ the Land Of Plenty Skateboard Foundation (LOP) and chillin with some pretty cool folks, and most […]
Read MoreThe Land of Plenty 03·20·09
by admin
Skateboards painted by the kids of Fillmore Middle School in Ventura, California. Check out The Land Of Plenty.
Read MorePelicans 03·19·09
March 19, 2009 by admin
Drove south through the fog and parked right off the highway, hopeful, even though you could barely see the waves coming in through all the grey. Nobody out except for a pod of dolphin and three pelicans working in unison to attack a school of bait-fish simultaneously from above and below. We suited up and […]
Read MoreCompletely Intoxicating 03·18·09
March 18, 2009 by admin
“Change your focus and you’ll find what you seek…” -Nelson Mandela
Read MoreSurfBored? 03·17·09
March 17, 2009 by admin
Been having a good time switching it up lately…with 13 boards to choose from there is never a dull moment. It’s been hard finding much surf, but somehow I managed to get a few this afernoon. Funny how despite this varied quiver I still dream of getting another two or three boards…
Read MoreMonday Surprise 03·16·09
March 16, 2009 by admin
Got a call at 4pm…”Hey I’m at “local break” and it’s waist to chest and glassy–get your ass down here!” that’s all I needed to call it quits for the day, throw the Frye singlefin in the truck and head over the hill. Sure enough it was clean and fun. The water was summertime warm […]
Read MoreFireaxe 03·15·09
by admin
Camped up north again last night with a bunch of folks…fun to get away and chill around a campfire, while the sounds of the ocean fill the night.
Read MoreVentucky 03·14·09
March 14, 2009 by admin
Drove south today on a surf recon mission and found nada…Cstreet was crowded with dueling surf competitions and weekend warriors. Need to start hitting some of these south swells…this Baja itch is getting out of control and it may be time for some covert ops across the border. Talked to a friend about taking his […]
Read MoreI spy with my little eye 03·13·09
March 13, 2009 by admin
Today’s surf shot brought to you by the kind people of Spy Optics…I’m on my third pair and am loving my Spy Nolen sunglasses, they are polarized and now you all get to see what I see when I am wearing them. If any of you folks actually work for Spy or know somebody who […]
Read More6am 03·12·09
March 12, 2009 by admin
Woke up this morning very hopeful…had rolled in last night to pounding surf and zero wind–if you’ve been to this spot you know how windy it can get. From the cliff, you could see lines to the horizon, perfectly spaced apart, a long period with about a 15 second interval…they just kept coming in, in […]
Read MoreNorthward 03·12·09
by admin
Rolled up to JB a little past midnight last night and the thunderous lines of rollers coming in from the moonlit horizon were literally shaking the ground…Stood on the cliff and took some shots then down the road to find a camping spot. Here is a shot from the beach looking west taken a 1am. […]
Read MoreTruckin 03·11·09
March 11, 2009 by admin
Went south this mornin’ to find some surf…got in but it wasn’t much…waist high at best. Just had dinner, packed up the truck and am headed in the other direction, find a place to camp and surf the mornin’ session at T’s…see you there? Took this photo as the sun was rising over LA County.
Read MoreClean 03·10·09
March 10, 2009 by admin
I like this photo cause it’s so clean. Simplicity is the goal. A small but fun evening session this pm, should have waited and done a full-moon surf, might still go out and make it a double sesh. day. I read this today and wanted to share… “When one tugs at a single thing in […]
Read MoreMicrocosm 03·09·09
March 9, 2009 by admin
We try not to sweat the small stuff, and concentrate on those big life-changing events, but truth be told life is a collection of small stuff. It is the sum of all those tiny events, meeting someone new and saying hi, waxing that new board for the first time, an evening session in less than […]
Read MoreSea you down the road a bit 03·08·09
March 8, 2009 by admin
Went for a long long hike up into the Gaviota hills today and could see the surf rolling in at the ranch in the distance…it’s flat everywhere but somehow it seemed like there were lines of peelers coming in, going unridden. I feel a little like a goose waiting for its flock to fly south […]
Read MoreBackyard 03·07·09
March 7, 2009 by admin
I ‘ve been fortunate enough to travel the world, 32 countries last I counted, I’ve been to 6 out of the 7 continents and have surfed some pretty amazing places…and yet i choose, as do some of you reading this, to live in Santa Barbara, and why not when we have the queen of the […]
Read MorePhotography 03·06·09o
March 6, 2009 by admin
Got a call from El Marinero in SD, seems he will soon be off to sea until spring, plying the waters between LA and Seattle…the reason I bring this up is that our conversation drifted from sea to surf to boards to photographs of sea and surf and boards and finally to the topic of […]
Read MoreChop sticks 03·05·09
March 5, 2009 by admin
Should have gone out this morning but didn’t, kicked myself in the ass all day as I watched the wind build and the swell die..Damn…by 4pm I had worked myself into a stupor but decided that it might glass off with the setting sun. Loaded two longboards into the truck, picked up Kitz and went […]
Read MoreMars Attacks 03·04·09
March 4, 2009 by admin
One of my projects of late has been the photo-documentation of surf-rigs and surf-mobiles…and today’s shot, taken at a well-known local break, is proof that some of those little green groms boosting those ridiculous airs and landing impossible aerials may not actually be your nextdoor kid neighbor johnny, but more likely pro-surfers from outer space.
Read MorePier Pressure 03·03·09
March 3, 2009 by admin
Went back to the pier this evening for some surf. Still glassy, more people out but still plenty of waves to go around. It was one of those sessions where I got a lot of speed out of my board and just connected all the sections. Guys were lining up on the other side of […]
Read MoreSunset Sesh. 03·02·09
March 2, 2009 by admin
Jumped in here this afternoon and surfed some of my best waves of the winter. Only a couple guys out, glass glass glass and great, fast super fun walls…the bigger sets were coming in overhead and barreling right up…a great evening! Excited for tomorrow’s sunrise sesh.
Read MoreProof 02·28·09
by admin
“How’s rincon look?” seems to be the question whenever you call your peeps for a surf report…and based on what the voice has to say on the other end of the phone, you know whether to go north, south, or stay home and watch Siestas y Olas…
Read MoreYou know that feeling 02·27·09
February 27, 2009 by admin
Surfed down in Ventura all afternoon and came north to take photos at sunset…I really like this one as it completely pulls me in and there I am, dragging my hand through the lip, slowing down, slow motion, turning an otherwise non-descript wave into a memory.
Read MoreGoli 02·26·09
by admin
Born and raised in the Ivory Coast, West Africa, people often ask me how that was…I say”the best” or “normal” or “would not change it for the world”….found and scanned some old photos…this is a photograph of a Goli Glin ceremony. “The Goli Glin is a zoomorohic spirit that can shape shift between a croccodile, […]
Read MoreBlown Out 02·26·09
by admin
Missed an opportunity to get in this morning…and the wind killed it tonight.
Read MoreDouble down 02·25·09
February 25, 2009 by admin
Had to go to LA for an all day meeting…went early and got in near Countyline, a few people out, mostly waist high, with one shoulder high set of which I got the second and biggest and longest wave. Rode it all the way in and called it a session. All day meetings and then […]
Read More“All work and no surf makes Geoff a dull boy” 02·24·09
February 24, 2009 by admin
A little bump out there today when I checked it, probably should have gotten in, but didn’t and instead went back home and worked…and now feel a little bit like the Shinning.
Read MoreClarity 02·23·09
February 23, 2009 by admin
A beautiful clear evening. Went to the sea to see, fingers crossed, if I could find a ripple to surf. Had a great surf-filled weekend and it is proving hard to come down from such a high…I have the shakes, lusting for more. Give me waves! Seemed like I was the only one on the […]
Read MoreGrowth 02·22·09
February 22, 2009 by admin
We are influenced by the world around us and I find myself absorbed by the photographs of others, and in the same way that I find inspiration in watching good surfers glide down the line, I often find an element of someone else’s photographs in mine…the trick is to build on those elements, or throw […]
Read MoreSelpan 02·21·09
February 21, 2009 by admin
Up at the crack and headed north, parked, made my way through a beautifully green field and across quiet train tracks to the bluff and surf. Spent all morning in the water with friends trading waves…barely anybody out and all sorts of waves to choose from. Got out after a few hours for a quick […]
Read MoreMagic Light 02·20·09
February 20, 2009 by admin
Got out of the surf, changed and warmed up and wasn’t going to go shoot, looked like the clouds had rolled in and the light would be dead…decided that I should check it anyways…and this is what I found!
Read MoreGliding 02·20·09
by admin
Spent the afternoon in the water…the swell brought the crowd and they are both supposed to build overnight, but there were still plenty of waves to go around and it just means we’ll need to migrate to lesser known spots in the morning. Thanks to yesterday’s and today’s sessions I am super amped and excited […]
Read MoreTidal 02·20·09
by admin
I really like this one…and if you look closely there is some guy about to get barreled on that wave pealing towards the left side of the photograph. Sometimes everything falls into place.
Read MoreWhen in doubt… 02·19·09
February 19, 2009 by admin
After taking a photo of a cool ass VW in the parking lot, we ran down to the water and sat there waiting for a set…waited quite a while, skipped some stones and watched the pelicans dive-bombing their prey…weren’t sure if we should suit up but then did and as always it was the right […]
Read MoreBates Rd. 02·19·09
by admin
You never know what you’ll find when you go down Bates Rd. It’s always a surprise and today it was this crazy classy VW van. What is it about these that screams “ultimate surf rig”…I like that it is a little rough around the edges, aren’t we all?
Read MoreSouthern Shores 02·18·09
February 18, 2009 by admin
Shot south for the day and surfed a peeling magic spot near County Line. A beautiful morning, glassy and empty. Breakfast burrito before a few meetings in LA, then stopped at the ‘Bu to watch some fancy footwork and finally back north to SB, racing the sun to the horizon. Another great day.
Read MoreWandering Thoughts 02·16·09
February 16, 2009 by admin
A photo from the hotel room after flying into Durban S.A. to headhigh surf and warm offshores…Had just spent the better part of the week tasting Cape Town and were headed up the coast to my aunt and uncle’s place in the Drakensberg mountains, for two weeks of work and play at the aids hospice/orphanage […]
Read MoreWildfowers 02·15·09
February 15, 2009 by admin
Posted another round of photos from my round the world trip…click on the WHO, WHAT and WHERE above (under Surfbird) to view the various galleries (or scroll down to view older posts). The swell dropped a little today and the wind killed it. Stayed home and nursed a head cold…a good opportunity to post some […]
Read MoreI Heart Surfing 02·14·09
February 14, 2009 by admin
Spent the morning shooting. A beautiful SoCal day, waist high and somewhat glassy, no crowd on account of all this rain and clear skies. Spent the afternoon at a local point break on a 9’3″ tank of a board, cross-stepping til sunset.
Read MoreSnow 02·13·09
by admin
No surf was had on Catalina, but plenty of wildflowers…No surf to be had here in SB today, but did manage to go up into the mountains with Kitz to find snow. Thought I’d get a cool shot of Santa Barbara’s coastal mountains covered in snow in the foreground with corduroy lines crossing the ocean […]
Read MoreDeep in the pocket 02·12·09
February 12, 2009 by admin
The wind killed it today. The swell wanted to play but the wind claimed Victory At Sea! Wish I were in Bali, deep in the pocket of a crystal clear Indo wave, instead of taking photographs of imaginary head high jean pocket barrels…
Read MoreKnow 02·11·09
February 11, 2009 by admin
It was raining as I took this shot and some of the raindrops on the lens come through in the photograph…not a rockstar shot but I wanted to post it anyways because of the thoughts going through my head as I stood on the cliff taking the photo. Ask a surfer what it is about […]
Read MoreFood for thought 02·08·09
February 8, 2009 by admin
Had lunch at this little taco joint…the world famous La Super Rica.
Read MoreTunes 02·07·09
February 7, 2009 by admin
Woke up early to the sound of the rain cross stepping across my roof…went to mesalane and it was going off, three guys in the water and 2ft overhead on the big sets. The water, however, was chocolate milk and I did not feel like tasting it. Checked the spit and the high tide was […]
Read MoreSolo 02·06·09
February 6, 2009 by admin
Spent the entire morning surfing this cove…life’s good.
Read MoreRain & Blossoms 02·05·09
by admin
Was going to surf today before the rain but the waves had not arrived…the rain came at 6am and with it the wind, killing any potential for an evening session. It’s rare to get rain round here and I kinda like it. Here is a photo of what I imagine are cherry blossoms melting away […]
Read MoreKookies 02·05·09
by admin
Took this shot through a foggy car window while driving at 75mph in the rain and fog and really like the soft blur it created…but it was not until I really looked at the image that I realized that it kinda looks like a portrait of Cookie Monster running towards me with his mouth open…does […]
Read MoreSingle 02·04·09
February 4, 2009 by admin
No waves but still got in the water. Switched it up and took out the Frye singlefin for some paddling around and the occasional ankle breaker. Where has winter gone? What happened to those epic days I dreamed about all summer? Time to cross some fingers and knock on wood and get this pacific ocean […]
Read MoreQuiver By Quill 02·02·09
February 2, 2009 by admin
The ocean is flat. Not a wave to be found. Thought about taking all my boards out and taking a photo of my quiver…too much work for such a sunny day, really should be out in the water. So I decided to draw my quiver instead, but when I put pen to paper to computer […]
Read MoreDisplacement Hull 02·01·09
by admin
Found this four-chambered retro wave vehicle at a flea market today for a dollar–the ultimate next step in the finless revolution. Tom Wegner step aside, look out for the power of vinyl…I’m excited to get back to Santa Barbara and start hitting those double sessions again (on a surfboard). We just need the winter swell […]
Read MoreScorpio’s Lady 01·31·09
January 31, 2009 by admin
After a hard day’s work on the ocean it is nice to tie up the boat, fire up the BBQ and invite your friends to watch the sun set and smile.
Read MoreTracks 01·30·09
January 30, 2009 by admin
Spence crossing the tracks after a good long surf…
Read MoreHere Kitty kitty 01·28·09
January 28, 2009 by admin
Am far away from the ocean today and though I am getting a little dehydrated I figured I should take this opportunity to post some photos from South Africa. If you like this shot and want to see more then click on the WHAT button above (below Surfbird) to access the Nature portfolio (or scroll […]
Read MoreVW ·01·26·09
January 26, 2009 by admin
Almost traded in my truck today for this beauty, well, not really, but thought about it. Always fun to see what fellow surfers decide to turn into their surfmobiles…
Read MoreSan Diego ·01·25·09
January 25, 2009 by admin
Sunset and an evening of burgers and beers by the ocean with friends…happy.
Read MoreBelieve ·01·24·09
January 24, 2009 by admin
Surf picked back up today but its windy and all the rain these last few days has made getting in the water kinda scary…just got back from yoga and not quite sure if I should answer the call of the ocean. Will probably just pack up and head down to San Diego for a couple […]
Read MoreSugar ·01·23·09
January 23, 2009 by admin
“It is a wholesome and necessary thing for us to turn again to the earth and in the contemplation of her beauties to know of wonder and humility.” Rachel Carson
Read MoreInvisible Ink ·01·22·09
January 22, 2009 by admin
Funny how we want everyone to know that we scored big and had the best barrel of our lives or how fluidly we danced across the face of a wave dragging our hand through the pearly curtain of foam screaming WOOHOOOOOOOOO! And yet not want anyone to know where it happened for fear of publicizing […]
Read MoreSponge ·01·22·09
by admin
This photo always cracks me up…no wonder we always drop in on these guys.
Read MoreWest ·01·21·09
January 21, 2009 by admin
Morning session at the Con, then down to Ventura for a meeting at FCD to talk about “green” surfboards, back home for a smoothie and off to campus point for the afternoon/evening session. The swell is passing and so the direction has changed from WNW to straight W which has really woken up some sleepy […]
Read MoreGold ·01·19·09
January 19, 2009 by admin
Surfed all morning at Rincon, had lunch, then surfed all afternoon and into the evening at C street…here is a shot of Victoria Falls from the Zambian side during a full moon. I find that I really miss Africa and need to go back soon, but until then will gladly take more pots of gold […]
Read MoreVolunteer ·01·18·09
January 18, 2009 by admin
It’s Martin Luther King day tomorrow as well as National Day of Service…a perfect opportunity for you to give back to those in need.
Read MoreOffshore ·01·18·09
by admin
I had a wonderful day and so completely love living in Santa Barbara…
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