Archives

South swell sweetness 6·6·10

Had such a fun day in the water…local spots were blowing up…nothing huge, but big enough for some memories to be planted. I want more.

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Surf looks fun 6·5·10

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Ebb and Flow ers 6·4·10

Found a little south swell down south…the summer doldrums are here and are echoed in my heart beat sounding like dull drums…no excitement here, no headhigh and glassy…but warm water and fog…force us to the logs…the ebb and flow ers of summer!

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sweet home 6·3·10

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Treetops 5·30·10

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Summer 5·29·10

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Meeeeeeeeeeeeeee 5·28·10

Lots of body whomping on this trip…lots of sand in my ears…

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Red 5·27·10

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Life Is Good 5·26·10

It is good indeed!

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KaKau Kauai 5·25·10

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Reality 5·24·10

Nothing seems quite real on the garden isle…everything’s a little too right on, too green, a little too sweet, a little too glassy and head high, a little too perfect…even the murals seem to melt into reality and back.

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PKs 5·23·10

Found more surf today, more size, more wind and more challenging…got worked and came home smiling…

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Not a bad place to be… 5·22·10

We surfed into the late evening last night…sunset was ridiculous and though it was crazy offshore and pretty much blown out everywhere, we found a not-too-crowded left point break that was beautiful and it even got glassy as the day ended with a sunset splash of colors into the ocean…FUN.

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Workin’it 5·21·10

Arrived yesterday and spending most of today working via internet…but it’s not so bad when the view from the office porch is like this one.

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Hawaii here we come 5·20·10

I LOVE THE TROPICS!

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Fingerprints 5·19·10

A new look at my quiver…I know, I know, I should have hung up that wetsuit to dry…I am off to Kauai for 10 days and can’t promise that I will update this blog…but will try. Aloha!

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The fog has lifted 5·18·10

Summer swells are coming north and looking south we wish for surf but skunks abound.

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Mondaymonsters 5·17·10

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Two Trees 5·16·10

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Take it to the bank! 5·15·10

Had an average session here today with two good’ol friends, fun times, warm water and such…until my last wave which stepped it up and offered me a beautiful coverup and fast shoulder high wall…thus elevating the session into the top ten of 2010 category…funny how one wave can make the session and memory bank!

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Slop 5·14·10

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June gloom 5·13·10

Time to think about heading to tropical waters…headed to Kauai next week and stoked. Gonna try to find some southswell down south this weekend, maybe snake some old friends.

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Iphone 5·12·10

Took this one with my iphone…gotta love those pixels.

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Back to basics 5·11·10

Finally found the time to paint…and have a few projects in the hopper…this one’s for sale (go to the Art&Design section at the top of the page).

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Follow the path 5·10·10

Looking for surf…

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You lock it up… 5·09·10

Took a shot of these locks on a fence at my favorite local spot…There is a tradition in certain places around the world that I have come to really appreciate and figured I’d share with you, as I contemplate adding my own lock to the bunch. It is said that wherever you fall in love […]

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The International Harvester Scout 5·08·10

There is something special about those old International Scouts: nice clean lines, no fancy tricks up their sleeve, just good ol fashion off-roaders, ready for adventure and build tough as a ten cent steak. They are certainly up there on the list of ideal surfmobiles…this one in particular said Life-is-easy-when-you’re-chill-and-summer-is-around-the-corner…

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Through the looking glass 5·07·10

Shot through the lens of my polarized sunglasses…I was really digging the way it looked with glasses on, so figured I’d share what I was seeing. Wish it had been chest high.

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Surfcheck one two one two 5·06·10

A little bump out there this morning…and a few guys out…southward in search of more size.

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VROOOOOOM 5·05·10

Shot out the window while keeping my eyes on the road less traveled…

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Soloist 5·04·10

Went down to the Corner and no one out…not much for waves, but when you get her to yourself you can’t be picky…surfed ’til sunset…it rocked!

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Still waters run deep 5·03·10

Had fun at this spot yesterday…did not have my camera, so figured I’d post a shot of what it looked like last week with all that wind.

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Patrol 5·02·10

A photo from a previous dawn patrol to set the mood…

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sueño 5·01·10

I awake to find that I miss Guatemala and shall be back soon…

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Surfer Y Sun III 4·30·10

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Surfer&Sun II 4·29·10

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Yin or Yang 4·28·10

Life is a balance…yin & yang = surfer & sun…

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Busy 4·27·10

SORRY sorry…got back from Guatemala, am moving houses, working multiple jobs, fighting some pesky bug I picked up down south and just swamped with goodness…seriously, seriously, I am back and will post daily…surf is small and fun, good to get back in the water.

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Wrinkled Wisdom 4·23·10

A lifetime of emotions have painted their lines across the horizon of her brow…

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CaliforneyeA 4·22·10

Just got back from Guatemala and am suffering a little bit from culture shock…will be back to “normal” soon and will be posting shots everyday again starting tomorrow (I will also backpost shots for the last two weeks)…surf is blown out and so will be posting some shots from the trip. Here is a shot […]

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What a trip 4·19·10

The sun sets on an incredible trip…we are definitely going back!

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Roasted 4·15·10

What’s crazier…hiking up a live volcano and staring into red hot chambers of lava as your shoes melt from heat, or roasting marshmallows over those pits of lava and bbq’ing hotdogs…Crazy?

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Red Hot Molten Magma 4·14·10

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Mr. Lava Lava 4·14·10

Lava Rocks!

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Orphaned 4·13·10

How can you look at this kid and not do anything. As soon as we walked into the Jackson House (just outside of Antigua, Guatemala) we knew we had to help…and so we stayed for the next four days (until it was time to fly back to California). We were told to scrub up and […]

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OMG 4·12·10

So hard to think about these little boys and girls going without food, hugs, kisses and love…as you read this.

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So Sad! 4·11·10

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Where’s my mommy 4·10·10

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Behind the mask 4·09·10

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For the Hungry 4·08·10

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Food for thought 4·07·10

We helped our new friends start a community feeding program…we made 100 sandwiches and walked around the pueblo of Alotenango (which is fittingly also known as El Rincon…funny that I always end up at the Queen) and passed them out to the pobres. You should have seen their smiles. Houses with poor blind old men, […]

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Back of the bus… 4·06·10

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The Fabric of there lives 4·05·10

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Guatemala 4·04·10

This kid rips…had a great session today at the queen and this kid was all smiles as he seemingly got every set wave. He was all of about 3 feet tall and so most of the waves were easily double overhead (not this one)…Gnars. I am off to Guatemala until the 18th…so no updates until […]

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Easter Surpise 4·02·10

Am selling this surfboard

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Let it mellow… 4·01·10

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Background 3·31·10

Where is your focus?

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Take a dip 3·30·10

No wind early this morning if you were here…

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Painted 3·29·10

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Mainers 3·28·10

A fun week spent with the boys from Maine…

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Flowergirls 3·27·10

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Victorinox at sea 3·26·10

Man talk about chopping broccoli, the wind is on it and the surf is sloppy, but the low hanging fruits of fun are ripe for the picking if you know where to go…

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It’s a great big wonderful world out there 3·25·10

go go gadget surf!

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Langston Hughes 3·24·10

The south swell killed our dreams for a magical morning at the Queen and so we drove south in search of better options. We surfed as the sun climbed into the heavens, but those dreams remained deferred: like a raisin in the sun they fester like a sore, and then run. They stink like rotten […]

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Take a hike 3·23·10

Hiked in and got it to ourselves…

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Eats Shoots & Leaves 3·22·10

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Heavy? 3·21·10

Light?

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PicturePerfectPoint 3·20·10

I love this one…especially that little splash of color and water in the bottom right corner.

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Mexicali 3·19·10

Off on a walkabout in search of dingos…

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Peace b w/ u 3·18·10

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The Gettingsgood 3·17·10

Seek with all your heart…

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Passing Wind 3·16·10

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Bowlarama 3·16·10

Another from the shot-while-driving-on-the-highway-and-reaching-out-the-window-with-camera-but-still-looking-ahead-so-as-not-to-crash series…

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Ides 3·15·10

I’m loving daylight savings time…

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Baptized 3·14·10

The sun sets on the past and a new day arrives…

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Self Induced 3·13·10

Today=surf sunrise sesh, eat breakfast burrito, walk it off, study the Word, hike, surf, maybe yoga, then Jaeger Chilly Cook Off=perfection.

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Son 3·12·10

Have a great weekend…

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Hindsight is 20/20 3·11·10

This reflection of the Con as seen through my windshield led to further reflections on hindsight as I drove down the road watching my future fade away into my past in the rear-view mirror thinking how we are all so focused on the destination ahead never really paying attention to the view out the window […]

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Roughneck 3·10·10

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fancypants 3·09·10

Went to surf this secret spot…and the Con’ditions were far from epic. But found some magic at the rebound spot down the road…alone and happy.

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Molding Clay 3·08·10

Kids see with their hearts, point the way with their fingers and laugh loud…here I am holding my good friend Clayton…yet I feel like I am the one being molded, finding purity, joy, youth, laughter, passion and truth through the eyes of Clay. I’m thankful.

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Chicas 3·07·10

It’s always more fun with friends…

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Going big 3·06·10

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Back of the bus 3·05·10

This homemade sticker…found on the back of a vw bus…says it all…

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Love Language 3·04·10

Sometimes a smile is born and creeps across your face as you walk up to a familiar little cove and see that you are alone…the smile grows up and explodes into a million little smiles, and stoke is born.

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For the birds 3·03·10

“It may be hard for an egg to turn into a bird: it would be a jolly sight harder for it to learn to fly while remaining an egg. We are like eggs at present. And you cannot go on indefinitely being just an ordinary, decent egg. We must be hatched or go bad.” -C. […]

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Time out 3·02·10

Simplicity is key…

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The shirt off my back… 3·01·10

A new shirt to get you through this El Niño …

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Scripps 2·28·10

Overexposed.

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What 2·27·10

The calm before more rain…San Diego, CA!

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Victory at sea 2·26·10

Big big surf, but blown out and a mess, but we still went out…

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Water bed 2·25·10

Campesinos…

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Slip 2·24·10

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Do Due South 2·23·10

Name that spot…i love that game…this one’s a little easy…but a good warm up run…am on my way south tonight and excited to hit up some old haunts…

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Water under the bridge 02·22·10

Waves come and go like water under the bridge…memories of adventures and friends stay stuck in the sand, shaping the next wave to wash under the bridge.    Just got featured on the Daily Shaka…the newest place to surf when it’s flat everywhere else. Stoked!

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Faceplant 02·21·10

What a weekend…

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Life 02·20·10

Flannel, Shotguns, Coffee, Ventucky!

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Give back…02·19·10

Think about the less fortunate this weekend…as the rain comes down a drowns away dreams…think of how nice it is to be warm and dry, how nice is that roof over your head, really think and think long about how thankful you should be to have a computer by your side to check the surf […]

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Two Doods, One Camper and Nine Boards 02·18·10

Two Guys, One Camper and Nine Boards…Wish I had been part of that trip…I came upon this rig on the PCH and all I could think of as I passed by and shot this photo were the weeks and weeks of uncrowded perfect breaks, fish tacos, wailing guitars and bonfire dreams…time to head south I […]

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I didn’t even have to use my A.K. 02·17·10

Today was a good day…

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Mahalo 02·16·10

Took this shot out of the car window, while driving down the highway on my way to cash in my surf check…

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Room For Rent 02·15·10

Small one person studio for rent, no pets allowed except for fish, non-traditional floorplan, long hallway with jade green walls…please apply inside.

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Sunday 02·14·10

Not a great shot, but the only one I took yesterday…was too busy surfing.

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Family 02·13·10

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TGIF 02·12·10

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Santa Barbara 02·11·10

Home sweet home…

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On the nose… 02·10·10

Good to be back.

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I heard she sang a sweet song… 02·09·10

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Grass 02·08·10

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cool? 02·07·10

Am off to Catalina for three days…if there is no internet I will post up when I get back…What a weekend!

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33! 02·06·10

YEAH!

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Ice Ice Baby… 02·05·10

As promised, here are some more Iceberg barrels (The last photograph is from a different wave sequence, but is so juicy that I thought I’d include it)…if you look at the 4th shot in the sequence there is a small dark spec right above the right side of the wave (left side if you were […]

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and… 02·04·10

Another shot from the Antarctica files…more Antarctic surf shots to be posted mañanazoomed way in to take this shot with my little digital camera while in Uruguay…kinda pixelated but nice…

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Home? 02·03·10

Tried the wide angle feature on the camera…kind of fun…Uruguay!

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Good to be home 02·02·10

Am back in town…and drowning in over 3000 photos taken since I left. It’ll take me some time to sift through the pile so I figured I’d post an appetizer. Surf is still here and I am excited to get back in. It has been too long.

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02·01·10

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Nook 01·29·10

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Freedom is an angel…01·28·10

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Joy for Sale! 01·27·10

HAPPY!

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Antarctica, Argentina and Uruguay 01·26·10

Sorry for not giving you a heads up…was in Haiti for Christmas and 5 days after getting back to SB, the quake hit and well, it’s been horrific. It is just so so sad, words just simply are to feeble to describe the loss. My mom has been put in charge of US medical relief […]

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It’s getting better all the time… 01·12·10

Wow it’s getting good out there right now…even bigger tomorrow!

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What a weekend! 01·11·10

Man the ocean was delicious this weekend…so many treats to be had, and I am still hungry…luckily this watery buffet of set waves is sticking around for the week. Getting back in soon.

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Drop, turn, pick a line and go 01·10·10

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Bethsheba 01·09·10

David…

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Swelldom 01·08·10

Time to get in…

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Sebs 01·07·10

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Lichen it 1·2·10

Will be out of internet touch until the January 7th…so no updates until then. Happy New Year, it’s going to be a great one.

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Reminiscences 12·29·09

Am far far away in the Caribbean and while it is very nice and warm and perfectly tropical, I have missed yet another epic swell…I’ve been posting shots from the swell we got right before I took off about a week ago, and post this shot as a toast to all of you who got […]

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@ the playground… 12·28·09

When it’s on, it”s on…Doesn’t anybody work anymore? So so fun…It just keeps going and going and going…

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Curtain Call 12·27·09

Oh, to be inside that room…can you spy a hunched-over figure trying to make it out?

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Star 12·26·09

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Christmas 12·25·09

Take a moment to think, search your heart and give thanks for all we have. Merry Christmas.

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Looking forward… 12·24·09

…and it just keeps getting better!

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G’morning 12·23·09

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Rise and Shine 12·22·09

…and surf and smile.

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Haiti 12·21·09

Flew out to Haiti last night and am here for two weeks…will look for surf, but tis’ not the season for Caribbean surf. So will be posting random images and old shots from recent swells…Here is a shot from last week, really had a lot of fun that day surfing this spot.

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uhmmmm goood 12·20·09

…just right…

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Red 12·19·09

Epic?

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Sunrise sesh 12·18·09

…enough said

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Eye spy 12·17·09

I’ve been courting the Queen these last few days, and she has definitely returned the love with some incredible sessions…here is a shot I took pre-session yesterday during the low tide…I like this shot for a lot of reasons, one of them being the guy boosting the pelican-like-air…see the incredibly pixelated shot below.

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Freedom 12·16·09

A man named Freedom passed away a few days back. A war veteran and friend to all, he lived on the streets and was a ray of light. My girl and I met him two nights before he passed, and in that short time really came to consider him a friend. It has been cold, […]

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Low Profile 12·15·09

Today’s session came in under the radar and the crowds missed it…super low tide but smiles all around.

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Speeding bullet 12·14·09

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Yes Ma’am 12·13·09

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Pure fun 12·12·09

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Cali Green 12·11·09

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Drop, carve, pick a line, hit the lip, tuck in, cover up and closed out 12·10·09

He made this bottom turn and charged into a closeout barrel…gnarlz.

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Get yours 12·09·09

Found some fun steep ones this morning near County Line, it was glassier up north closer to home, where I took this shot but I opted for size…and I found it. I took the photo through the window of my truck, while parked on the shoulder of the 101…i kind of like how the door […]

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Wavehunter 12·08·09

The swell is definitely here, found a nice somewhat uncrowded spot this morning, excited for the pm session. Took this shot as I was driving south…

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Storm in a port 12·07·09

Rain rain go away, come back another day, it you don’t, we don’t care, we’ll go surf…if we dare? Man the water is chocolate mud pie soup, and still every lineup was full this morning on the gold coast.

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Goose 12·06·09

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Cookcumber Salad 12·05·09

Found more than I expected today…more waves, more surfers, more salad.

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the new office…12·04·09

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Clouds 12·03·09

Not much surf to be found…but always checking.

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Polar Bears 12·02·09

Got a little surf yesterday and got a little cold this morning…but it was worth it. On a different note I am loving the new look at wablog!

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Drawing 12·01·09

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Leftovers 11·30·09

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blob 11·29·09

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Simplify 11·28·09

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Point of view 11·27·09

Looking up…

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Giving Thanks 11·26·09

So so thankful…

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Four point nine 11·25·09

A great morning session at the con…

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Mon petit chou 11·24·09

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Aftershockas 11·23·09

The swell is fading and the mid-week doldrums eminent…luckily there is a whole lot of pie in our future.

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Fisherman 11·22·09

So nice.

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You reeeaaaaallllyyyyy missssed it… 11·21·09

I surfed somewhere else today, but this was surely the biggest wave to be found…

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Last Light & Sweet Solitude 11·20·09

The sweet afterglow of a delicious day wafts over the horizon, delicately dancing a slow waltz across the drifting lines of swelldom, not a sound is heard beyond the sleepy shorebreak and twinkling stars. We are safe and sound, basking in the warmth of a purposeful day spent in the pursuit of truth. Surf and […]

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A swell time 11·19·09

Found some more surf last night at this spot…the swell was barely showing then and there were some sweet rides to be had…but it’s fully on right now, so am out of here to get some more.

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H 2 0hhhhhhhhhhhh 11·18·09

yeeeeyeah!

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Sunshine 11·17·09

…You’ll never know dear…

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Fall Colors 11·16·09

Am back from a crazy trip to the East Coast…no waves were found, but plenty of adventures. So good to be back in California, excited to make things happen, super stoked on the possibilities…

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Geoffchado 11·15·09

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It’s a hard knock life 11·14·09

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BLING 11·13·09

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Field Dreams 11·12·09

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Rats! 11·11·09

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Farmer John 11·10·09

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Bubble Baths 11·09·09

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The forest for the trees 11·08·09

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Bro 11·07·09

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re:LAX 11·06·09

I’m out of here… taking off for the weekend and won’t be posting for a few days…sea ya!

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Downhill 11·05·09

Surf is here. Here is surf.

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Need more light 11·04·09

Sometimes there’s no surf…always plenty of birds…which admittedly are pretty boring…but…so is no surf…so here is a bird.

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doldrums 11·03·09

No surf means being able to scan old and not-so-old photos…and then realizing you spend way too much time updating your blog and should instead be driving to Mexico where there is undoubtedly big uncrowded surf.

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Throwing biggie on the table 11·02·09

Full moon session tonight at this spot…see you there (or not, depending on how dark it is).

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Looking back 11·01·09

The world sure seemed flat today, not a ripple on the ocean. Here is a shot that I took through the sideview mirror of the Tacoma while on a surfcheck…I took it while driving and kinda just shot from the “hip”, the focus is a little off but so am I. Hope to see more […]

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Inverted 10·31·09

Not much surf to be found this morning but might jump in with a log and ride some ankle breakers…here is a shot from last Tuesday.

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Poverty Line 10·30·09

The swell went away as fast as it showed up…but even in these dire times this guy manages to keep a roof over his head…good job man, wave of the day in a day without waves.

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Reflecting 10·29·09

How are you living? What do you seek? What do you find when you look back and sea?

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Pickpocket 10·28·09

Wow surf was good this morning…

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Quickie 10·27·09

Wow the ocean was big and angry today…went to this spot and got it good with just one other guy out. It was way bigger than I expected and the offshore winds were keeping the faces open just long enough to entice us in, and though I got a handful of crazy fast rides, I […]

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A swell time 10·26·09

PARTY WAVE…it’s sessions like this that make you want to leave home in search of more secluded breaks. Alejandros sounds real good right now…as does just about any spot closer to the equator.

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Zoom 10·26·09

The Niño has arrived and is bringing it! The swell is building again and it is time to head back to the water, the waves, the Con.

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Outkast 10·25·09

I can get lost for hours looking at this wave…and somehow completely find myself at the same time.

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Copycat 10·24·09

a surfbird?

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Essence 10·23·09

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Rinconditioned 10·23·09

Surf was good last night…and everyone knew it. Still picked off some nice ones despite the crowd.

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Blast Off 10·22·09

I HEART SURFING

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Hammondeggs 10·21·09

Found surf today and man was it good to get wet…surfed all evening ’til way past dark….here is a shot from the surf check prior to getting in.

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Smile 10·20·09

Hey party people, sorry for the lack of posts but had to drop everything and fly to Kentucky to celebrate the life of Grandpa Jack…am back in Cali now and posting up…Here is a video to encourage you all to follow your dreams–Grandpa Jack was a close family friend and like everyone who met him, […]

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Sponsored 10·11·09

This surf session brought to you by the wonderful people at Rainbow Sandals…making sure that every wave we catch feels as smooth as a well-worn pair of your favorite sandals.

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Panama? 10·10·09

Really itchin’ to go go go…been looking at tickets to Panama and thinking I might need to go soon…this photo, though blurry, says it all.

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Three-O 10·09·09

Happy Birthday to my favorite Latina.

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No Water 10·08·09

No waves.

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Rise 10·07·09

Found some surf this morning…

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Kill your TV 10·06·09

Did not surf today, did not take any photos today…did not watch TV either. Found this shot from my trip to Honduras last June, thought I’d share. Sharing is caring. Wouldn’t mind changing the channel to something with a little more surf…

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Rockin’out 10·05·09

Saw Dominic Bali tonight in Ventura…check him out, it was a pretty great show!

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Friendship 10·04·09

All in a day’s work…

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Hot Hot Heat 10·03·09

Like a raisin in the sun…

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Wow 10·02·09

Talk about style points…

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Macro 10·01·09

Surfed today but man was it tiny…here’s a shot of a surfbird of paradise instead.

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Rubber Check 9·30·09

Went to check the surf and everyone else was doing the same…drive, stop, check, frown, drive again…repeat! But at least these guys were doing it in style.

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Not Much There 9·29·09

Checked all sorts of spots today and didn’t find much…ended up surfing this 10’2″ Takayama Model T down south…which was perfect cause it doesn’t need much of a wave to get it going…fun wind-slop, but fun nonetheless.

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Glow stick 9·28·09

No surf today, but a nice desert sunset…

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Bumps 9·27·09

Found a little something today…There was some nice size (chest-to-head-high) down south in Ventura for the morning session, but with the size came the thickest crowd I’ve seen there in a long long time…opted for the Queen on rounds two and three…much better crowd setup, but small. Here’s a a shot that kind of sums […]

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Flat 9·26·09

No surf today…but lots of SUP’s looking like they were street sweeping their way to the horizon…

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Funtimes 9·25·09

Funsylvania!

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Pillars 9·24·09

Found surf today.

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Fisher-Price 9·23·09

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Til’ you drop 9·22·09

The Surfbird Store is finally up…it’s an evolving project and will be updated as new art projects come to life.

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Empty 9·21·09

Went to check it, and the parking lot said it all…

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V8 9·20·09

Trying to spice up an otherwise dry photo session…

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Foreground 9·19·09

The swell showed up last thursday and lasted through most of the weekend…spent most of those sessions at this break and a few down south in Ventura. The fog lasted all weekend and made for some incredible shots…but every time I framed a cool photo in my mind, I was in the water getting some […]

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Bubble 9·18·09

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Caliente 9·17·09

A beautiful afternoon and glassy chest high sets made for a fun session today at the Queen. The water was apple pie warm. Playing with the exposure on this shot in an attempt to give you a taste of that apple pie…

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Morning sesh 9·16·09

Good to get back in the socal swing of things…morning sessions and empty secret spots…

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Back Home 9·15·09

Got home and got wet…sent the “waterproof” digi to Canon for a fix, got the real camera out and am ready for a fun new season of surf, laughs, and smiles…enjoy!

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Secret Coast 9·08·09

A long long hike down an empty coast to this gem of a spot…got a little water in the ‘Waterproof” camera and am pretty upset, but I guess it makes for an interesting blurring effect….that being said, the camera is out of commission and so you are stuck with this photograph until my return to […]

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Wild 9·07·09

So beautiful!

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No sharks 9·06·09

Out of focus, I know…but that is what vacations in Hawaii are about…loose your focus and gain freedom.

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Click 9·05·09

Kauai!

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Secret spot #349861 9·04·09

Am leaving soon to go find secret spot #349862…

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Dandelions 9·03·09

Sometimes I imagine these as dandelions blowing in the wind…but there was no wind blowing and so the seeds of change remain in want, and the little kid inside me keeps wanting to kick them into the air, wanting to see those seeds do their thing.

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Colorblind 9·02·09

Off to Kauai on friday…PSYCHED!

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Sea-Saw 9·01·09

So much glass + a little hurricane headed our way = stokage!

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Las Olas 8·31·09

Drop in!

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Sometimes meditation brings waves 8·30·09

…and sometimes peace.

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MexiCali 8·29·09

How fun would a covert op across the border be in this wave hunting machine…

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Iris 8·28·09

Yeah surf, surf, surf and glass glass glass, not the blue glass-kind, but the no-wind-glass-kind…fun to be in the water and excited for the little bump we are getting this weekend.

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Cleaning out the cobwebs 8·27·09

It’s taken me a few days to get back into things here, but am now really back and ready for some adventures…

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Morning Surf Check 8·26·09

These images were inspired by one of my favorite photographers of all time…Gallen Rowell. It’s good to be back in Cali and nice that there are some waves.

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Here we go 8·25·09

A little south swell in the water for my return to Cali…and a hot new Patagonia wetsuit for the coming winter season…stoked to take it slow and enjoy the El Niño ride.

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Back to Cali 8·24·09

En route to SB…so psyched!

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Massive 8·23·09

You can’t really tell from this photo but that wave is about headhigh… Had to escape the island today to find non-suicidal surf…waves were coming in at way way overhead and very non-makeable (not that that is really a word)…Checked a number of spots and they were all in the 10-12ft faces category, scary and […]

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A date with Hurricane Bill 8·22·09

Hurricane Bill just showed up and we’re off…loaded the lobster boat and headed to Shipwrecks for some fun shoulderhigh cold angry monsters…waves out here seem a little more angry than our waves back home…still had a ball!

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Acadia Abstract 8·21·09

Another view of sunset through the 4″ high shorebreak…

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Sunset & Ankle Breakers 8·21·09

Went to the beach tonight for sunset and got the waterproof digi in some great 4inch thick ankle breaker barrels…here is the view from within.

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The Moon 8·20·09

First off I want to say that I’ve been hiding on an island off the coast of Maine all summer with very limited internet connectivity and as such have not been updating this site daily…but have been trying to retroactively get shots up whenever possible. I’ll be back in SB next week and all will […]

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Cash for Clunkers 8·19·09

So excited to trade in this Birch tree for SoCal’s palms, these flat Maine waters for a Pacified ocean, fun times for fun times….but first I have a date with Hurricane Bill.

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Hues 8·18·09

Excited to get some painting done this evening…

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Partners in crime 8·17·09

Sparkling!

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The Islands 8·16·09

There is surf heading this way…and I can just about see it coming over the horizon. Hurricane Bill is coming!

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