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Next Page » Next Page » Next Page »of focus off focus 5·22·12
May 22, 2013 by admin
Be playful always smile think 4yourself love others give thanks
Read MoreOstrich 5·13·12
May 13, 2013 by admin
My head’s been in the sand, time to get it back into the living water…
Read MoreNip and Tuck 2·11·12
February 11, 2013 by admin
A doctor’s visit to the green room for a little nip and tuck!
Read MoreAlmost Cut My Hair 1·31·12
January 31, 2013 by admin
YEwwwwwwwww…..frothing! Brought to you by Ryan Lovelace
Read MoreSwell’ing 1·18·12
January 18, 2013 by admin
Alone in blue grey flight, lost and found in dwindling light, cutting back and off again, alone into the blue grey night
Read MoreTowards Clarity 1·17·12
January 17, 2013 by admin
Draw a line across the canvas and make it yours
Read MoreSmiles for miles… 11·19·12
November 19, 2012 by admin
You know its a good day by all the smiles in the lineup! Super clean and fun and big at 6am, but as my buddy said, you’re either a surfer or a photographer, but you can’t do both… and he’s right, by the time the camera was out post sesh, the magic was gone! …but […]
Read MoreGodspeed DT 10·23·12
October 23, 2012 by admin
You shaped boards, culture, style, and many a surfer. We are indebted to you uncle Takayama! Continue to RIP & Godspeed! Photo: borrowed from Glenn Sakamoto/Liquid Salt
Read MoreStoke’ologist 10·22·12
October 22, 2012 by admin
I love seeing people smile when they are surfing…it’s funny how so many of us forget that we are supposed to be having fun. Surf, smile, laugh! See you out there.
Read MoreBird’s eye view 10·15·12
October 15, 2012 by admin
Do you prefer the larger photo format? Or do you like the smaller ones (see below). Have a great day!
Read MoreSunset Set 10·13·12
October 13, 2012 by admin
“Don’t ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive and then go do that. Because what the world needs is people who have come alive.” Howard Thurman
Read MoreBetween two views 9·11·12
September 11, 2012 by admin
“Always Do Right. This Will Gratify Some People And Astonish The Rest.” Mark Twain, 1901 Surf Check = small, empty, keep looking
Read MoreSolo 9·10·12
September 10, 2012 by admin
Early morning ankle peelers are good for the soul
Read MoreDouble reflection session 9·3·12
September 3, 2012 by admin
Took this way pixelated and too dark iphone shot on the way back from a fun roadtrip south to catch the dying south swell, which it turns out was not really dying, and we found some super crowded but fun walls. It’s a single exposure but has a double reflection in it…sometimes the lesson is […]
Read MoreGordo 8·24·12
August 24, 2012 by admin
No surf was had today…but here is a recent painting I did for some dear friends. Am rebuilding my art website…check it out here www.geoffreyravenhill.com
Read MoreSouth Swell Surprise 8·23·12
August 23, 2012 by admin
Time to get back to my roots and daily shoots, triple sessions and self reflections, a truck, a camera, quivers and wetsuits…bring on the NW swells… Seas the day!
Read MoreDad’s day…In Remembrance of Thee 2011 10·13·11
October 13, 2011 by admin
Today is the 14 yr anniversary of my dad passing away…am stoked to spend the day with my bro and sister, in remembrance of him. Hopefully today will also include a few waves in his honor at the Con. How crazy is it that we spend so much time honoring and morning the lost, but […]
Read MoreFull moon session anybody? 10·12·11
October 12, 2011 by admin
A glorious sunset last night…
Read MoreLive simply 10·11·11
October 11, 2011 by admin
A man is rich in proportion to the number of things which he can afford to let alone
Read MoreOcto 10·3·11
October 3, 2011 by admin
The season is here for roadtrips and bonfires, guitars and fellowship, campin and surfin, memories and new friends…stoked!
Read MoreNew surf buddies 9·21·11
September 21, 2011 by admin
Rescued this little guy on venice beach…now he is the perma-surf-bud!
Read MorePerspective needed 9·20·11
September 20, 2011 by admin
Take a 90degree turn from where you stand and look at where you were from where you now are and find the solution…
Read MoreOn the other side of the world 8·28·11
August 29, 2011 by admin
How many of you are going to be watching the Billabong Pro on your computer all day while you pretend to work… http://billabongpro.com
Read MoreLooking for a new ride… 8·28·11
August 28, 2011 by admin
Wondering if I get a truck, van or…maybe something like this?
Read MoreBlessing of the boats 8·26·11
August 26, 2011 by admin
may the tide that is entering even now the lip of our understanding carry you out beyond the face of fear may you kiss the wind then turn from it certain that it will love your back may you open your eyes to water water waving forever and may you in your innocence sail through […]
Read MoreRobertsport, Liberia, West Africa 8·25·11
August 25, 2011 by admin
Got to surf Robertsport while in Liberia…If you like sweet tasty lefts you now know where to find them. Apparently when it’s going off this bay fills up with lines to the horizon.
Read MoreOops, Got Home, She in Costa… 8·24·11
August 24, 2011 by admin
Timing is everything….so good to be home, stoked for the fall swells to start rolling in.
Read MoreSurf Liberia 7·24·11
July 25, 2011 by admin
Surfistas, I finally found internet and figured I should drop some 411 your way…(the photo is low fidelity on account of the slooooowwww internet upload)…sorry for not posting up for the days, I’ve been in Liberia, West Africa, working with a public health organization and all the refugees from the Ivory Coast (which is where […]
Read Moretowards the heavens 6·22·11
by admin
“Let the morning bring me word of your unfailing love, for I have put my trust in you. Show me the way I should go, for to you I entrust my life.” Psalm 143:8
Read MoreSummerland Sunsets 6·21·11
June 21, 2011 by admin
A sleepy little town on the morning fog covered coast wakes up to the waves slapping at its shores…the sun breaks through and lights the way as the day takes note of our adventures…as if to celebrate another great day, the sky erupts in glory and the sun and clouds paint a beautiful canvas of […]
Read More6·13·11
June 13, 2011 by admin
Moving out, moving up, and moving on…but where do we go? Liberia, West Africa or Liberia, Costa Rica or Nica or or or….
Read MoreFrom whence I came 6·2·11
June 2, 2011 by admin
The question I ask myself is does the apple fall far from the tree?
Read More180degrees South 5·31·11
May 31, 2011 by admin
Summer is here and the souths are coming north…it would be fun to go see what we can find out on the islands…
Read MoreA Grannis prayer 5·26·11
May 26, 2011 by admin
I’ve always loved Grannis’ photo of this surfer…he is so peaceful, almost in prayer, as the world and waves explode around him …Yeah Leroy!
Read MoreOffice Space 5·25·11
May 25, 2011 by admin
A nice infusion of new research material to be perused at work…note the Lightner original print, thanks Kyle!
Read MoreInto the Abyss 5·23·11
May 23, 2011 by admin
Morning session at a not-so-secret lil’ spot before the wind showed up was definitely the call today…hoping to get out there again tomorrow. Here is a piece I recently completed…
Read MoreInside 5·19·11
May 19, 2011 by admin
Getting deep for two seconds of glory…before the closeout!
Read MoreAm back… 5·18·11
May 18, 2011 by admin
Am back at it…I took a self-prescribed break from myself for the last two months and got lost in dreams and life and happiness and in the process found myself again. Have surfed here and there but have nothing epic to report…but isn’t that the point, that life is only as epic as you make […]
Read MoreVictory at see 3·7·11
March 7, 2011 by admin
Stormy waves and stormy days…no surf sessions had, hikes into the mountains in their stead. Found the burning bush.
Read MoreParko 3·3·11
March 3, 2011 by admin
Finished this diptych of my favorite Joel Parkinson aerial last night and really like it…this photo does not do the paintings justice but I wanted to share anyways. I’ll have better shots of it on my art website soon. Hope you get a shot at this swell today…am going to head north and see what […]
Read MoreWhat do you wait for? 3·1·11
March 2, 2011 by admin
‘And now what are you waiting for? Get up, be baptized and wash your sins away, calling on his name.’ Acts 22:16
Read MoreWho wants to go to Nica? 2·22·11
February 22, 2011 by admin
Been thinking about going down to Nica…would love to hear from any of you who have gone down and want to share some stories…hit me up at TheSurfbird@gmail.com.
Read MoreDouble Trouble 2·18·11
February 18, 2011 by admin
Been getting it good the last few days…but today was victory at sea…Here is a shot of a not so secret spot I surfed yesterday with about 50 other dudes-including Kelly Slater and a bunch of other pros and Channel Island guys doing product testing on some new boards…it’s always entertaining to watch those guys […]
Read MoreNorte 2·11·11
February 11, 2011 by admin
Going north for the weekend to find surf and adventure. We look at the sea and breath in…lost in its expanse. Seeing God in it’s beauty, we smile, becoming who we are. See you up north.
Read MoreMainland 2·10·11
February 10, 2011 by admin
Been out on Catalina for the week and will post some shots later…Here is my birthday sunset last weekend from Summerland, CA! Life is love…remember it!
Read MoreNo Snowpocalypse Here!!! 2·2·11
February 2, 2011 by admin
You can’t live a perfect day without doing something for someone who will never be able to repay you…think about it.
Read MoreA bun in the oven… 1·28·11
January 28, 2011 by admin
Been making no-knead-bread lately and it’s delish! Hope you got some of those waves yesterday….they were also delish! God bless!
Read MoreSearching the sunrise for swell 1·25·11
January 25, 2011 by admin
Anhelo Su Boca, Su Voz, Su Pelo by Pablo Neruda Anhelo su boca, su voz, su pelo. Silencioso y muerto de hambre, rondo a travs de las calles. El pan no me alimenta, amanecer me interrumpe, yo busca todo el dia para la medida lquida de sus pasos. Tengo hambre de su risa lisa, sus […]
Read MoreThere is still some size to be had 1·24·11
by admin
My morning session = fun…can’t wait til my evening session.
Read MoreSonday 1·23·11
January 23, 2011 by admin
Had such a fun weekend full of surf…there aren’t many other places where I feel at such peace as I feel when in the water…and I know you probably feel the same way…yet there is still one place better and it’s the place where I come to rest in faith, the place where my being […]
Read MoreFull moon rising 1·21·11
by admin
Went back to this spot last night with some friends and surfed it as the moon rose over the distant mountains and perfectly lit up each face as we raced into the darkness…water was warm, the phosphorescence was killer and the rides were surprisingly long and fun. There is still a lot of size in […]
Read MoreNook and crannies 1·19·11
January 19, 2011 by admin
With this much size and hype it is time to go to the mattresses and check out your favorite not-so-secret spots…here is a fun local nook.
Read MoreBig Wednesday Shaka 1·19·11
by admin
First of all, I hope you all had a shot at your favorite spot yesterday cause it was all time…I had the longest sweetest cleanest most tasty cover up of my life yesterday…it has been stuck on repeat in my head ever since. Along with some of the biggest waves I’ve seen at Rincon in […]
Read MorePerspectives 1·18·11
January 18, 2011 by admin
Here is a panoramic shot that my iphone stitched together after yesterday’s evening session…an interesting new look to that old faithful point break. The swell is here…go get some!
Read MorefARTing around 1·14·11
January 14, 2011 by admin
Almost done with this painting…it’s taking me a long time to finish it but I think the last of the paint will go on today…a little sneak peek for all of you.
Read MoreOne more day on land… 1·13·11
January 13, 2011 by admin
Doc says I can get back in the water tomorrow…so that is what I shall do. Here is a photo for an old friend.
Read MoreGlassy 1·11·11
January 11, 2011 by admin
Been fighting the gnarliest cold, but as I got up this morning for a most beautiful sunrise the light through my kitchen widow was reflecting perfectly off this awesome piece of seaglass that resides on my kitchen table…it is a perfect barreling left…and no crowd factor. Mindsurfed it as the tea steeped and figured i’d […]
Read MoreSalty Dog 1·6·11
January 7, 2011 by admin
Been sick as a dog the last two days…which means the surf has shown up and some of you are getting it good…while I lay in bed sneezing and coughing! YAY!
Read MoreEagle eyes 1·4·11
January 4, 2011 by admin
It’s funny the stuff you’ll take photos of when you have surf on the mind…stop reading this and go get wet. See you out there.
Read Morebros 1·3·11
January 3, 2011 by admin
An evening spent with the stanleys…in other news: it’s time for a surf hunt…need to bag a few sets. Happy hunting to all!
Read MoreTHE ONE 1·1·11
January 1, 2011 by admin
A new year is here and with it a lifetime of possibilities. It is a great day to focus on your focus and make sure that this year is marked by action. The sunrise filtering through my window this morning on this first day of the year made me think of Psalm 27:1 “The LORD […]
Read More4ever! 12·30·10
December 30, 2010 by admin
Time is too slow for those who wait, too swift for those who fear, too long for those who grieve, too short for those who rejoice, but for those who love, time is eternity.
Read MoreBack at it… 12·29·10
December 29, 2010 by admin
Am back in town and ready for this rain to kick out and for the swells to drop in…stopped by Mollusk while in SF…stop on in if you are ever in that hood…and if you are in this hood, you better go have a looksea at Point Concept! Be well everyone. I’ll be posting some […]
Read MoreInto the light 12·28·10
December 28, 2010 by admin
“Do not withhold your mercy from me, LORD; may your love and faithfulness always protect me. For troubles without number surround me; my sins have overtaken me, and I cannot see. They are more than the hairs of my head, and my heart fails within me. Be pleased to save me, LORD; come quickly, LORD, […]
Read MoreHappy Birthday! 12·25·10
December 25, 2010 by admin
His star is rising. Merry Christmas everyone.
Read MoreRain Rain Go Away 12·20·10
December 20, 2010 by admin
Figured with all that brown ocean soup out there I should add a little soap. Hope you are all staying wet out there…and dry inside.
Read MorePurple rain on the horizon 12·16·10
December 16, 2010 by admin
words words words and words…i need to work more on action!
Read MoreSailor’s delight 12·14·10
December 14, 2010 by admin
“Let the morning bring me word of your unfailing love, for I have put my trust in you. Show me the way I should go, for to you I entrust my life.” Psalm 143:8
Read MoreUpwards 12·13·10
December 13, 2010 by admin
Looking up to the heavens last night finding peace…
Read MoreYour Faith Has Healed You 12·10·10
December 10, 2010 by admin
Man, what a week…hope you’ve found your spot in the lineup…hope you’re gotten your fill…this swell is dying quick…go!
Read MoreThis little piggy went wee wee wee wee allllllll the way home frozen 12·7·10
December 7, 2010 by admin
It is way bigger than you think…and way colder too. My tootsies froze out there…
Read MoreWesty 12·6·10
by admin
Hope you all found a little time to enjoy today’s surprise westies…I did!
Read MoreConfirmed 12·5·10
by admin
Could a mariner sit idle if he heard the drowning cry? Could a doctor sit in comfort and just let his patient die? Could a fireman keep on sleeping, let men burn and give no hand? We’ve got to fight injustice, make a difference, take a stand! How do we keep on smiling in light […]
Read MoreMexicali 12·3·10
December 3, 2010 by admin
Headed south of the border for the weekend…hope to sea some of you there!
Read MoreBe Radiant 12·2·10
December 2, 2010 by admin
“In the same way, let your light shine before others, that they may see your good deeds and glorify your Father in heaven.” Matthew 5:16
Read MoreYou know it’s bad when… 12·1·10
December 1, 2010 by admin
You know it’s been a dry spell when you go check the surf and realize that your shred sched. has been completely empty and that you are in such need of an epic swell that you would even gladly take all these crowds…oh, withdrawal sucks…bring back my muse.
Read MoreTHANK YOU 11·29·10
November 29, 2010 by admin
So many thanks to give, so gifted just to live, so many friends to love, so many ways to help so many…..
Read MoreThe White Buffalo Rocks 11·22·10
November 22, 2010 by admin
Spent the day in Ventucky and capped the night off with some new friends checking out The White Buffalo, and he rocked it! I can’t recommend The White Buffalo enough…seriously, give him a good listen and join me in wondering why someone with this much soul hasn’t yet blown up…man, good stuff.
Read MoreBe true to yourself 11·19·10
November 19, 2010 by admin
“Ask and it will be given to you; seek and you will find; knock and the door will be opened to you. For everyone who asks receives; the one who seeks finds; and to the one who knocks, the door will be opened.” Matthew 7:7-8
Read MoreFOR SALE 11·16·10
November 16, 2010 by admin
I am selling this Nikon 500mm lens…and you should buy it if you want some awesome surf shots. It is in great condition and I am selling it just because I don’t use it much and it deserves a loving home. I am going to post it on ebay and craigslist, but call me and […]
Read MoreDiagonals 11·9·10
November 9, 2010 by admin
“Do nothing out of selfish ambition or vain conceit, but in humility consider others better than yourselves. Each of you should look not only to your own interests, but also to the interests of others.” Phil.2:3-4
Read MoreAim High 11·7·10
by admin
Heard this yesterday and kind of liked it…”Shoot for the moon, ’cause if you fail you’ll still be among stars”.
Read MoreGood Deeds 11·4·10
by admin
…good deeds are obvious, and even those that are not obvious cannot remain hidden forever…
Read MoreDeath by High Tide 11·3·10
by admin
Up at the break of dawn for some early morning treats…but nothing (death by high tide!). Perfect opportunity to give thanks and praise for this wonderful day and wait out the tide by reading the bible on the beach…
Read MoreBig Wednesday? 11·2·10
November 3, 2010 by admin
Pat Curren ripping it up this evening at the corner spot…this swell was a little over-hyped, but 4hrs+ of 3-6ft+ surf & glass is all I needed to cast my vote for the Queen! FUN!
Read MoreBehind us 11·1·10
November 1, 2010 by admin
Looking back into the rear view mirror I can safely say that that was a fun October…I can only hope that November turns it up…
Read MoreTake a hike! 10·30·10
October 30, 2010 by admin
…being sure of what we hope for and certain of what we do not see…
Read MoreFuntastic 10·28·10
October 28, 2010 by admin
Drove by this spot on a surf check last night and just had to get in and pick off a few of these beauties…hope you are making the most of this swell. I’m down to surf whenever, wherever and with whoever…so call me if you want to cruise. 310.525.4227. Or more importantly feel free to […]
Read MoreOffshore accounts 10·27·10
October 27, 2010 by admin
Lots of wind and lots of surf, lots of fun and lots of sun. Get it before if goes away!
Read MoreSunrise at the Queen 10·26·10
October 26, 2010 by admin
God is Great! What a beautiful day to give thanks and praise! Got in at o’dark:30, the stars were bright, the air: clear and sweet, and the chest-high rollers were glassy and far from consistent but fun. Cold feet, warm smiles, good times. Second sesh this pm if anyone wants to cruise…
Read MoreStop what you’re doing and go surf! 10·25·10
October 25, 2010 by admin
Checked it early this morning…but the tide was killing it…but time will do its thing, the tide will fall and the walls will rise…and surf will be had by all! Have an awesome day!
Read MoreSomebody get your goat? 10·24·10
October 24, 2010 by admin
Found some waves today…and some goats. Turns out these goats can surf better than you or me, and can actually hang twenty…ok, maybe not, but they sure were cool.
Read MoreRise 10·23·10
October 23, 2010 by admin
Get right! Took this photo with the burst function of my iphone camera…it takes 16 photos in a second and though the format is weird and the resolution sucks, it is still a fun little thing to play with…This kid needs to be sponsored, so help him out with your connections and I promise great […]
Read MoreFound waves 10·22·10
October 22, 2010 by admin
Took three photos with my iphone and it put tem together for me…fancy! Next thing you know, the iphone will be doing my surfing for me… 🙂
Read MoreGlueup 10·21·10
October 21, 2010 by admin
A crazy idea…helped Spencer glue up an alaia blank the other day…fun to play with wood and glue and tablesaws and creativity…sorry for the awful photo quality!
Read Moreblurred vision 10·20·10
October 20, 2010 by admin
So many tears falling from the heavens today…
Read MoreHowdy’camper 10·19·10
October 19, 2010 by admin
Think about how hard we all try to get shacked all the time and then realize that it’s just surf and that the shackless, homeless, and folks on the street try harder than any of us for a little shackage, shelter or coverup…It rained last night, complete with thunder and lightning, and I bet that […]
Read MoreThe flock heads north at daybreak! 10·18·10
October 18, 2010 by admin
Found a fun-filled morning a few clicks north of here last Saturday. Pulled a solo mission to meet up with some folks but did not complete that mission objective… I did, however, end up finding some unexpected old friends…for triple bonus points! The crowd filled in with the morning light and by mid-day it was […]
Read MoreCountry roads take me home… 10·16·10
October 16, 2010 by admin
This has got to be one of my favorite vistas…
Read MoreSURFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF 10·14·10
October 14, 2010 by admin
…is where you find it….
Read MoreDad’s Day 10·13·10
October 13, 2010 by admin
The wind blows wherever it pleases. You hear its sound, but you cannot tell where it comes from or where it is going. So it is with everyone born of the Spirit. -John 3:8
Read MoreMorning Brewhaha 10·12·10
October 12, 2010 by admin
Found a little somethin’ this morning…though I should of headed north to Jalama with some of you folks. Next time!
Read MoreSurf’s up 10·2·10
October 2, 2010 by admin
You know it’s been good when you have this many suits drying!
Read MorePinch and a punch for the first of the month 10·1·10
October 1, 2010 by admin
Came upon this scene while checking for some waves…
Read MoreRejoice 9·30·10
September 30, 2010 by admin
This is one of my favorite passages and I think of it often…and wanted to share. “Rejoice in the Lord always. I will say it again: Rejoice! Let your gentleness be evident to all. The Lord is near. Do not be anxious about anything, but in everything, by prayer and petition, with thanksgiving, present your […]
Read MoreWhat’s your calling? 9·29·10
by admin
Stop for a few seconds and think about where you are heading…1 mississippi, 2mississippi, 3mississippi…when you look back on your life, two, five, ten, fifty years from now, what do you want to have done, to be remembered for? Here is a Call Box, answer your calling and get going on those dreams, make life […]
Read MoreAddicted 9·28·10
September 28, 2010 by admin
Man it was good yesterday, and again this morning and all glassy and some nice fun fast sets and crowd was chill and parking lot was full and life is good and then I got this coffee….Crazy! (sorry for the grain and focus, it was taken with the iphone, so is low-fidelity).
Read MoreKnock knock…who’s there…9·23·10
September 23, 2010 by admin
Dwaine…Dwaine who?…Dwaine the baftub i’m dwowning! This painting gets mailed to whoever posts the best knock-knock joke in the comments section!
Read More1 fish 2 fish red fish blue fish 9·22·10
September 22, 2010 by admin
Drove south to meet up with my bro and found this cove with just one guy out and savory little peelers rolling in…the sun came out, the water warmed up and we were blessed with laughs, good conversation and much tip time. Yeah Lord!
Read More3ft & Building 9·20·10
September 20, 2010 by admin
Started the day with an early morning session down south smiling because it looks like it should get better as the week progresses. Yet I look back to this sunset last night and realize that we spend, I spend, too much time looking forward trying to figure out what the future holds, and in the […]
Read MoreBetterment 9·17·10
September 17, 2010 by admin
These flat cold foggy seas have forced me to subsidize the stoke meter with adult ed classes…spanish, guitar and jewelry making. Yeah, i know jewelry making isn’t exactly a macho thing to do, but who cares and besides, you get to play around with stuff like this anvil…and what could make you feel more alive […]
Read MoreIce Cold 9·16·10
September 16, 2010 by admin
Went south by southwest for some tip time this morning at C st. Not much bigger that waist high, but super fun. Here is a shot of me and two of my favorite people!
Read MoreSailing away 9·13·10
September 13, 2010 by admin
Drove south last week and just kept going…ended up just north of the border with boards, bikes, sleeping bags and girl. Spent the last few days finding summer, sun, surf, sailboats, and the Lord’s sweet sweet love. Am back in the 93103 and stoked that the summer sun followed us north.
Read MoreIl n’est pas profonde 9·7·10
September 7, 2010 by admin
Looked for surf all weekend and didn’t find much…heard from the boys back in Maine that they got it all time.
Read MoreIs this really Summer? 9·3·10
September 3, 2010 by admin
Wow, we are due for a swell and some sun…and it sounds like we might get both this weekend!
Read MoreLooking back 9·2·10
by admin
Here is a shot of my pops back in the 60’s…wish he were still here.
Read MoreClarity 9·1·10
September 2, 2010 by admin
Drove south today through the fog towards clarity but it was only temporary and now the haze is back…the sun sets and offers a glimpse at the clarity of days ahead.
Read MoreStoked on the future… 8·31·10
August 31, 2010 by admin
The days ahead are gloriously bright, I feel like it is all possible and right, like the sets are stacking up and we just have to ride one all the way in to the cove…stoked!
Read MoreBack in the water 8·30·10
August 30, 2010 by admin
Surfy surfy surfy…just got back to the SB…Stoked!
Read MoreI want to be you Maine man 8·20·10
August 20, 2010 by admin
Woweee…this was one cool sunrise. Still no surf here in Maine and only have a week to go…may the west coast swells of fall and winter start to do their thing…
Read MoreHope she brings the surf… 8·17·10
August 17, 2010 by admin
The girl of my dreams arrives tonight!
Read MoreBird 8·12·10
August 12, 2010 by admin
Was messing around and took this self-portrait…kind of think it looks like a blackbird flying your way…
Read MoreFrom Above 8·11·10
August 11, 2010 by admin
Sometimes you just need to change your point of view to change your point of view. Sometimes we see so much as to be blind to the scene and the seen, and those that are blind to so much see our unseen and un-scene. Choose to be blind to yourself and you will see others.
Read MoreIntruder Alert 8·8·10
August 8, 2010 by admin
It’s one thing when you are surfing your local spot back home in Santa Barbara and some guy paddles out that you don’t recognize…you kind of nod and chalk it up to that-sucks-that-there-is-another-person-in-the-water-but-there-are-plenty-of-waves…but when you are in deep back-country coastal Maine and some VW van is parked in the local spot parking lot with a […]
Read MoreYou can’t get there from here 8·5·10
August 6, 2010 by admin
Early morning boat ride in the fog…looking forward to getting in the water over the next two days as a mid-summer swell hits Maine. Stoked!
Read MoreA date with the queen 8·4·10
August 5, 2010 by admin
Usually a date with the queen to me means an epic session at rincon but there is another queen that graced my night last night…The Night Blooming Cereus, also known as the Queen of the Night, is a wonder to be seen. Now, I am not some flower freak, but this thing is incredible. This […]
Read MoreEastward 8·3·10
August 2, 2010 by admin
I am off to the land of Grain Surfboards, empty cold water breaks, lobster and hurricane swells…MAINE! But don’t you worry, there will be plenty of updates to be had. Until then, here is a shot of what I found yesterday on my surf hunt…
Read MoreConfectionery 8·2·10
by admin
This infectiously sweet shot was set up and taken by the very talented and amazing Ms. KLR… I awoke to the sound of the fog horn this morning thinking of that beautiful afternoon back in Kauai, wishing I were back there. Most of Santa Barbara is covered in fog this morning, which means glassy little […]
Read MoreBe Different 7·30·10
July 30, 2010 by admin
As I look out my window at the coming weekend I wonder: How will I make these days stand out? Will I dare to be different this weekend, or will time tick by, the dare unanswered? What is at the center of our being? My Answer: a deep love of God and doing right. Your […]
Read More2nd session 7·29·10
July 29, 2010 by admin
…kept messing with that watercolor I posted back on 7·17·10…but am not sure which one I like better. It may have been a case of if-it-aint-broke-then-don’t-try-to-fix-it…which do you prefer?
Read MoreSurfari 7·28·10
July 28, 2010 by admin
Drove all over dodge to find a face, a lip, a bump or a lump…opted for photographically sliding into the future. Shot this surf’rig as it flew by a local spot- they weren’t interested in getting wet either…I like this shot ’cause it lets you decide for yourself how good that local spot looked today […]
Read MoreWhat do you see? 7·27·10
July 27, 2010 by admin
Brush in hand, I spent some time last evening staring up at the heavens trying to replicate that immense perfection…check it out here.
Read MoreA little something if you are willing to get wet 7·26·10
July 26, 2010 by admin
Not always sure if it’s worth getting in…but figured I’d try. It was fun.
Read MoreRed niK eB <-- 7·23·10
July 23, 2010 by admin
The swell is dying and this guy is making the most of that set. What a fun week if you were able to catch that south swell…spent last night with my good friend Michael, who is without home and lives on the streets. He goes without food for days and days at a time and […]
Read MoreOnly on the PCH 7·22·10
July 22, 2010 by admin
Drove by this scene yesterday on the PCH…miles and miles of open ocean and emptiness being filled with some pretty sick drum beats. Talk about rocking out for God. It was a sick show!
Read MoreTake Two 7·21·10
July 21, 2010 by admin
Strengthen the feeble hands, steady the knees that give way…found surf in LA today (it is much bigger than you think).
Read MoreWhat path do you walk? 7·20·10
July 20, 2010 by admin
Defend the cause of the weak and fatherless; maintain the rights of the poor and oppressed…
Read MoreNicaragua? 7·19·10
July 19, 2010 by admin
Not much surf around these parts this last week…thoughts of moving to Nica on my mind, thinking sometimes we just need to see the open doors and jump right in!
Read MoreTogether 7·13·10
July 13, 2010 by admin
Life is so so precious…and so I write to all of you to let you know that famed surfboard shaper Al Merrick’s granddaughter, Daisy Merrick, is fighting for her life this morning…At 6 years old, she has been fighting cancer for the last 9 months, and though she was in remission, it is back on […]
Read MoreI choo choose you! 7·12·10
July 12, 2010 by admin
You are stopped, at this very moment, at life’s crossroads: time to figure out how you want to live…really, truly live. The train of time is about to charge right by and it’s decision time! If you are like me, you probably think that you can put off that decision, let the train pass and […]
Read MoreTo the sea, like charcoal to paper 7·9·10
July 9, 2010 by admin
“As charcoal to embers and as wood to fire, so is a quarrelsome man for kindling strife.” This one is for sale…all proceeds to go to Orphan Network.
Read MorePeace Out 7·6·10
by admin
Found a little surf these last few days, but we’ve had to travel far and wide just to find it. Ran into a friend that is separating from his wife because things just aren’t working out and I thought I would pepper this post with a little depth instead of staying in the shallows just […]
Read MoreFor a song… 7·1·10
July 1, 2010 by admin
Been playing my new guitar…this long exposure was shot in low candlelight and weird fluorescent lighting…here are some lyrics from a song I’ve really been digging lately…”Your eyes are doves behind your veil. Your hair is as a flock of goats…”
Read MoreSalt 6·30·10
June 30, 2010 by admin
An old guy drove by with a smile on his face, the folds of his leathery skin spoke volumes to the sacrifice he has made for this way of life…no 9 to 5 for this guy, definitely not of this world he drives the road before him, an easy smile, a board and a purpose…As […]
Read MoreCoverup 6·29·10
June 29, 2010 by admin
There are a few little coverups to be found in this south swell…and this shot perfectly illustrate’s today’s quote: “I have learned to be satisfied with whatever I have”. Think on this one for a while, really chew on it…we always think that the grass is always greener on the other side of our perspective. […]
Read MoreRe:Definition 6·28·10
June 28, 2010 by admin
Sorry I have been m.i.a. I walked off into the darkness to try to find the light and did not bring a camera nor a computer to update my blog…the good news, however, is that I found the light and it was from within. I’ve spent a good part of the last three weeks since […]
Read MoreSO SICK! 6·9·10
June 10, 2010 by admin
the summer doldrums have forced my surfing to the internet…where I found this totally radical video…somebody had way too much time on their hands…but I am glad they did. Good job. Enjoy!
Read MoreWarning: Sea Monster Sighting 6·8·10
June 8, 2010 by admin
We were body whomping when this floating head charged us…man, what an ugly scary hungry monster…ehwwwwww, that thing was gnarly. Luckily it attacked some spongers instead!
Read MoreSummered 6·7·10
by admin
fun evening in the surf as memories flashed across a painted sky…
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