Surfbird


When
  • 2012
  • 2011
  • 2010
  • 2009
  • 2008
  • Been making no-knead-bread lately and it’s delish! Hope you got some of those waves yesterday….they were also delish! God bless!

    Anhelo Su Boca, Su Voz, Su Pelo by Pablo Neruda

    Anhelo su boca, su voz, su pelo. Silencioso y muerto de hambre, rondo a travs de las calles. El pan no me alimenta, amanecer me interrumpe, yo busca todo el dia para la medida lquida de sus pasos.

    Tengo hambre de su risa lisa, sus manos el color de una cosecha salvaje, hambre para las piedras plidas de sus uas, yo deseo comer su piel como una almendra entera.

    Deseo comer el rayo de sol que seala por medio de luces en su cuerpo encantador, la nariz soberana de su cara arrogante, yo deseo comer la cortina efmera de sus latigazos,

    y establezco el paso alrededor de hambriento, oliendo el crepsculo, caza para usted, para su corazn caliente, como un puma en los barrens de Quitratue.

    …see you out there.

    My morning session = fun…can’t wait til my evening session.

    Had such a fun weekend full of surf…there aren’t many other places where I feel at such peace as I feel when in the water…and I know you probably feel the same way…yet there is still one place better and it’s the place where I come to rest in faith, the place where my being is truly centered, where inner peace and outer peace are one in the same and that is where I find my Lord and Savior, Jesus Christ. Psalm 63:3 reads “Because your love is better than life, my lips will glorify you.” And so I glorify Him. Please feel free to call me up at 310-525-4227 if you want to know Him and find His peace, for Philippians 4:7 says “And the peace of God, which transcends all understanding, will guard your hearts and your minds in Christ Jesus.” I definitely do not have all the answers, in fact I actually have very few, but I am willing to talk things through and pray with you until we find what you seek. God Bless you.

    Have an awesome friend-filled weekend!

    Went back to this spot last night with some friends and surfed it as the moon rose over the distant mountains and perfectly lit up each face as we raced into the darkness…water was warm, the phosphorescence was killer and the rides were surprisingly long and fun. There is still a lot of size in the water and I’m getting in soon. Sea ya out there.

    With this much size and hype it is time to go to the mattresses and check out your favorite not-so-secret spots…here is a fun local nook.

    First of all, I hope you all had a shot at your favorite spot yesterday cause it was all time…I had the longest sweetest cleanest most tasty cover up of my life yesterday…it has been stuck on repeat in my head ever since. Along with some of the biggest waves I’ve seen at Rincon in a long while. Wow. Now, you better be calling in sick today with all the rest of southern California, cause today is going to be even better. I went to check the surf report last night and this is what I found…looks about normal, a big swell, promises of fun times today…until I realized that this swell is clearly a shaka that is blowing up all our favorite spots and slamming into LA…This image is not manipulated or enhanced, the swell literally appears to be a shaka shaped hand slamming into LA…or maybe beauty is in the eye of the beholder.  Go surf!

    Here is a panoramic shot that my iphone stitched together after yesterday’s evening session…an interesting new look to that old faithful point break. The swell is here…go get some!

    So so good to get back in this weekend…

    Almost done with this painting…it’s taking me a long time to finish it but I think the last of the paint will go on today…a little sneak peek for all of you.

    Doc says I can get back in the water tomorrow…so that is what I shall do. Here is a photo for an old friend.

    Been fighting the gnarliest cold, but as I got up this morning for a most beautiful sunrise the light through my kitchen widow was reflecting perfectly off this awesome piece of seaglass that resides on my kitchen table…it is a perfect barreling left…and no crowd factor. Mindsurfed it as the tea steeped and figured i’d share. Be well.

    Been sick as a dog the last two days…which means the surf has shown up and some of you are getting it good…while I lay in bed sneezing and coughing! YAY!

    It’s funny the stuff you’ll take photos of when you have surf on the mind…stop reading this and go get wet. See you out there.

    An evening spent with the stanleys…in other news: it’s time for a surf hunt…need to bag a few sets. Happy hunting to all!

    IPhone induced panoramic!

    A new year is here and with it a lifetime of possibilities. It is a great day to focus on your focus and make sure that this year is marked by action. The sunrise filtering through my window this morning on this first day of the year made me think of Psalm 27:1 “The LORD is my light and my salvation— whom shall I fear? The LORD is the stronghold of my life—of whom shall I be afraid?” And I must say that I have only myself to fear and invite you to join me in holding each other accountable towards a year full of righteous action…Happy New Year everyone!

    Built by GR805