The days ahead are gloriously bright, I feel like it is all possible and right, like the sets are stacking up and we just have to ride one all the way in to the cove…stoked!
Woweee…this was one cool sunrise. Still no surf here in Maine and only have a week to go…may the west coast swells of fall and winter start to do their thing…
Was messing around and took this self-portrait…kind of think it looks like a blackbird flying your way…
Sometimes you just need to change your point of view to change your point of view. Sometimes we see so much as to be blind to the scene and the seen, and those that are blind to so much see our unseen and un-scene. Choose to be blind to yourself and you will see others.
It’s one thing when you are surfing your local spot back home in Santa Barbara and some guy paddles out that you don’t recognize…you kind of nod and chalk it up to that-sucks-that-there-is-another-person-in-the-water-but-there-are-plenty-of-waves…but when you are in deep back-country coastal Maine and some VW van is parked in the local spot parking lot with a board strapped to the top, you can’t ignore the intrusion…never did find out who the surfer was…but fingered I’d take a ransom-shot…jk. Surf showed up this weekend. Yippeeeeeeee!
Early morning boat ride in the fog…looking forward to getting in the water over the next two days as a mid-summer swell hits Maine. Stoked!
Usually a date with the queen to me means an epic session at rincon but there is another queen that graced my night last night…The Night Blooming Cereus, also known as the Queen of the Night, is a wonder to be seen. Now, I am not some flower freak, but this thing is incredible. This flower only blooms once a year, and starts opening up as the sun sets, and by midnight is fully open…only to close again by the time the sun rises. It is ghostly white and light sensitive, so you have to watch it bloom in a very dark room- in this case it is in the painting studio of a great friend of mine. In any case, the only light we could illuminate it with were very dim colored lights, thus all these amazing hues (you don’t really get the full feeling from these photos, because the photo file is so big that when I have to compress it to post in on this site, the color hues get mixed up and pixelated, as seen above…email me and I will send you the large file for your viewing enjoyment). Click here for more shots from last night. Oh yeah, the smell is intoxicating and very similar to the night blooming jasmine that we have all over socal. yum.
I am off to the land of Grain Surfboards, empty cold water breaks, lobster and hurricane swells…MAINE! But don’t you worry, there will be plenty of updates to be had. Until then, here is a shot of what I found yesterday on my surf hunt…
This infectiously sweet shot was set up and taken by the very talented and amazing Ms. Kori Rider… I awoke to the sound of the fog horn this morning thinking of that beautiful afternoon back in Kauai, wishing I were back there. Most of Santa Barbara is covered in fog this morning, which means glassy little peelers and no crowd…meet me out there.