Surfbird

An old guy drove by with a smile on his face, the folds of his leathery skin spoke volumes to the sacrifice he has made for this way of life…no 9 to 5 for this guy, definitely not of this world he drives the road before him, an easy smile, a board and a purpose…As I took this shot this quote came to mind: “Let your conversation be always full of grace, seasoned with salt, so that you may know how to answer everyone.”

There are a few little coverups to be found in this south swell…and this shot perfectly illustrate’s today’s quote: “I have learned to be satisfied with whatever I have”. Think on this one for a while, really chew on it…we always think that the grass is always greener on the other side of our perspective. This break is only waist-high, but I am sure that that other spot is at least headhigh. We tend to want what we don’t have, at the expense of all that we did to get to where we are. We can be so A.D.D about life. I tend to think of things in relation to my life’s perceived continuum projecting before me for another 60 years…but it could all end today, this could be my last wave. Why do we run so fast to get to the finish line, why not enjoy the ride…even if it is just waist-high.

Sorry I have been m.i.a. I walked off into the darkness to try to find the light and did not bring a camera nor a computer to update my blog…the good news, however, is that I found the light and it was from within. I’ve spent a good part of the last three weeks since my last post trying to define and refine things, call it spring cleaning, call it soul searching, call it way too many things on my plate and not enough want for the mental and spiritual clutter that a full plate brings, I have been trying to simplify. I have been trying to focus, looking for purpose…and talking to friends I find that many of them, and maybe many of you, have walked off into that same darkness, searching…

This is what is said of Truth, “you will seek me and find me when you seek me with all your heart. I will be found by you.” and in seeking with all of mine, I have found it in my faith. It pray that you are seeking with all of your heart…seriously, ALL of your heart.

the summer doldrums have forced my surfing to the internet…where I found this totally radical video…somebody had way too much time on their hands…but I am glad they did. Good job. Enjoy!

We were body whomping when this floating head charged us…man, what an ugly scary hungry monster…ehwwwwww, that thing was gnarly. Luckily it attacked some spongers instead!

fun evening in the surf as memories flashed across a painted sky…

Had such a fun day in the water…local spots were blowing up…nothing huge, but big enough for some memories to be planted. I want more.

Found a little south swell down south…the summer doldrums are here and are echoed in my heart beat sounding like dull drums…no excitement here, no headhigh and glassy…but warm water and fog…force us to the logs…the ebb and flow ers of summer!