Surfbird

Lots of body whomping on this trip…lots of sand in my ears…

It is good indeed!

Nothing seems quite real on the garden isle…everything’s a little too right on, too green, a little too sweet, a little too glassy and head high, a little too perfect…even the murals seem to melt into reality and back.

Found more surf today, more size, more wind and more challenging…got worked and came home smiling…

We surfed into the late evening last night…sunset was ridiculous and though it was crazy offshore and pretty much blown out everywhere, we found a not-too-crowded left point break that was beautiful and it even got glassy as the day ended with a sunset splash of colors into the ocean…FUN.

Arrived yesterday and spending most of today working via internet…but it’s not so bad when the view from the office porch is like this one.

I LOVE THE TROPICS!

A new look at my quiver…I know, I know, I should have hung up that wetsuit to dry…I am off to Kauai for 10 days and can’t promise that I will update this blog…but will try. Aloha!

Summer swells are coming north and looking south we wish for surf but skunks abound.

Had an average session here today with two good’ol friends, fun times, warm water and such…until my last wave which stepped it up and offered me a beautiful coverup and fast shoulder high wall…thus elevating the session into the top ten of 2010 category…funny how one wave can make the session and memory bank!

Time to think about heading to tropical waters…headed to Kauai next week and stoked. Gonna try to find some southswell down south this weekend, maybe snake some old friends.

Took this one with my iphone…gotta love those pixels.

Finally found the time to paint…and have a few projects in the hopper…this one’s for sale (go to the Art&Design section at the top of the page).

Looking for surf…

Took a shot of these locks on a fence at my favorite local spot…There is a tradition in certain places around the world that I have come to really appreciate and figured I’d share with you, as I contemplate adding my own lock to the bunch. It is said that wherever you fall in love (as I have on this wave) you should leave a lock and throw away its key…the lock symbolizes your promise to never separate from your one true love. In any case, you should check out google images for “lovers locks” and you will see what I mean…then you should place a lock for your one true love…

There is something special about those old International Scouts: nice clean lines, no fancy tricks up their sleeve, just good ol fashion off-roaders, ready for adventure and build tough as a ten cent steak. They are certainly up there on the list of ideal surfmobiles…this one in particular said Life-is-easy-when-you’re-chill-and-summer-is-around-the-corner…

Shot through the lens of my polarized sunglasses…I was really digging the way it looked with glasses on, so figured I’d share what I was seeing. Wish it had been chest high.

A little bump out there this morning…and a few guys out…southward in search of more size.

Shot out the window while keeping my eyes on the road less traveled…

Went down to the Corner and no one out…not much for waves, but when you get her to yourself you can’t be picky…surfed ’til sunset…it rocked!

Had fun at this spot yesterday…did not have my camera, so figured I’d post a shot of what it looked like last week with all that wind.

A photo from a previous dawn patrol to set the mood…

I awake to find that I miss Guatemala and shall be back soon…