Surfbird

Where is your focus?

No wind early this morning if you were here…

A fun week spent with the boys from Maine…

Man talk about chopping broccoli, the wind is on it and the surf is sloppy, but the low hanging fruits of fun are ripe for the picking if you know where to go…

go go gadget surf!

The south swell killed our dreams for a magical morning at the Queen and so we drove south in search of better options. We surfed as the sun climbed into the heavens, but those dreams remained deferred: like a raisin in the sun they fester like a sore, and then run. They stink like rotten meat and crust and sugar over like a syrupy sweet. Maybe they just sag like a heavy load. And then explode?

Hiked in and got it to ourselves…

Light?

I love this one…especially that little splash of color and water in the bottom right corner.

Off on a walkabout in search of dingos…

Seek with all your heart…

Another from the shot-while-driving-on-the-highway-and-reaching-out-the-window-with-camera-but-still-looking-ahead-so-as-not-to-crash series…

I’m loving daylight savings time…

The sun sets on the past and a new day arrives…

Today=surf sunrise sesh, eat breakfast burrito, walk it off, study the Word, hike, surf, maybe yoga, then Jaeger Chilly Cook Off=perfection.

Have a great weekend…

This reflection of the Con as seen through my windshield led to further reflections on hindsight as I drove down the road watching my future fade away into my past in the rear-view mirror thinking how we are all so focused on the destination ahead never really paying attention to the view out the window always concerned with our own path not sharing the road or giving way to others or God and just searching searching when all we ever wanted slips into the rearview mirror and we just had to stop and surrender the keys…

Went to surf this secret spot…and the Con’ditions were far from epic. But found some magic at the rebound spot down the road…alone and happy.

Kids see with their hearts, point the way with their fingers and laugh loud…here I am holding my good friend Clayton…yet I feel like I am the one being molded, finding purity, joy, youth, laughter, passion and truth through the eyes of Clay. I’m thankful.

It’s always more fun with friends…

This homemade sticker…found on the back of a vw bus…says it all…

Sometimes a smile is born and creeps across your face as you walk up to a familiar little cove and see that you are alone…the smile grows up and explodes into a million little smiles, and stoke is born.

“It may be hard for an egg to turn into a bird: it would be a jolly sight harder for it to learn to fly while remaining an egg. We are like eggs at present. And you cannot go on indefinitely being just an ordinary, decent egg. We must be hatched or go bad.” -C. S. Lewis

Simplicity is key…

A new shirt to get you through this El Niño …