Surfbird

Out with the old and…

Time is too slow for those who wait, too swift for those who fear, too long for those who grieve, too short for those who rejoice, but for those who love, time is eternity.

Am back in town and ready for this rain to kick out and for the swells to drop in…stopped by Mollusk while in SF…stop on in if you are ever in that hood…and if you are in this hood, you better go have a looksea at Point Concept! Be well everyone.  I’ll be posting some shots from last week soon.

“Do not withhold your mercy from me, LORD; may your love and faithfulness always protect me. For troubles without number surround me; my sins have overtaken me, and I cannot see. They are more than the hairs of my head, and my heart fails within me. Be pleased to save me, LORD; come quickly, LORD, to help me.” Psalm 40:11-13

His star is rising. Merry Christmas everyone.

Do art!

Figured with all that brown ocean soup out there I should add a little soap. Hope you are all staying wet out there…and dry inside.

words words words and words…i need to work more on action!

“Let the morning bring me word of your unfailing love, for I have put my trust in you. Show me the way I should go, for to you I entrust my life.” Psalm 143:8

Looking up to the heavens last night finding peace…

Keep pushing the limits…

Man, what a week…hope you’ve found your spot in the lineup…hope you’re gotten your fill…this swell is dying quick…go!

…lines to the horizon…

It is way bigger than you think…and way colder too. My tootsies froze out there…

…no time for words…gotta get in!

Hope you all found a little time to enjoy today’s surprise westies…I did!

Could a mariner sit idle if he heard the drowning cry? Could a doctor sit in comfort and just let his patient die? Could a fireman keep on sleeping, let men burn and give no hand? We’ve got to fight injustice, make a difference, take a stand! How do we keep on smiling in light of our neighbors pain? We see the tired and the hungry, but their plight is just in vain. We’re called not to be idle, with eternity on the line? Yet all I see are the needy and those that aren’t don’t have the time. To help the orphans and the windows or the homeless and the sick! We’re to help the weary and the scared, and the lost and the proud. Wouldn’t you, just like the mariner, help the crying soul from drowning.

Headed south of the border for the weekend…hope to sea some of you there!

“In the same way, let your light shine before others, that they may see your good deeds and glorify your Father in heaven.” Matthew 5:16

You know it’s been a dry spell when you go check the surf and realize that your shred sched. has been completely empty and that you are in such need of an epic swell that you would even gladly take all these crowds…oh, withdrawal sucks…bring back my muse.

A little bit to be had today…

So many thanks to give, so gifted just to live, so many friends to love, so many ways to help so many…..

Focus…

Spent the day in Ventucky and capped the night off with some new friends checking out The White Buffalo, and he rocked it! I can’t recommend The White Buffalo enough…seriously, give him a good listen and join me in wondering why someone with this much soul hasn’t yet blown up…man, good stuff.

“Ask and it will be given to you; seek and you will find; knock and the door will be opened to you. For everyone who asks receives; the one who seeks finds; and to the one who knocks, the door will be opened.” Matthew 7:7-8

Right on!

Didn’t find much, but still got in and had a good time…

I am selling this Nikon 500mm lens…and you should buy it if you want some awesome surf shots. It is in great condition and I am selling it just because I don’t use it much and it deserves a loving home. I am going to post it on ebay and craigslist, but call me and it’s yours…310-525-4227 or thesurfbird@gmail.com! Yeah!

Sometimes you just have to run for it…

“Do nothing out of selfish ambition or vain conceit, but in humility consider others better than yourselves. Each of you should look not only to your own interests, but also to the interests of others.” Phil.2:3-4

Check out the new Surfbird hats

Moment of truth…

Heard this yesterday and kind of liked it…”Shoot for the moon, ’cause if you fail you’ll still be among stars”.

…good deeds are obvious, and even those that are not obvious cannot remain hidden forever…

Found some nuggets today!

Up at the break of dawn for some early morning treats…but nothing (death by high tide!). Perfect opportunity to give thanks and praise for this wonderful day and wait out the tide by reading the bible on the beach…

Pat Curren ripping it up this evening at the corner spot…this swell was a little over-hyped, but 4hrs+ of 3-6ft+ surf & glass is all I needed to cast my vote for the Queen! FUN!

Looking back into the rear view mirror I can safely say that that was a fun October…I can only hope that November turns it up…

Here is a good trick or treat…

…being sure of what we hope for and certain of what we do not see…

Better than coffee!

Drove by this spot on a surf check last night and just had to get in and pick off a few of these beauties…hope you are making the most of this swell. I’m down to surf whenever, wherever and with whoever…so call me if you want to cruise. 310.525.4227. Or more importantly feel free to call me if you need prayer or want to talk about God, your faith, my faith or if you just need a friend, or advice…I’m far from wise, but I got your back!

Lots of wind and lots of surf, lots of fun and lots of sun. Get it before if goes away!

God is Great! What a beautiful day to give thanks and praise! Got in at o’dark:30, the stars were bright, the air: clear and sweet, and the chest-high rollers were glassy and far from consistent but fun. Cold feet, warm smiles, good times. Second sesh this pm if anyone wants to cruise…

Checked it early this morning…but the tide was killing it…but time will do its thing, the tide will fall and the walls will rise…and surf will be had by all! Have an awesome day!

Found some waves today…and some goats. Turns out these goats can surf better than you or me, and can actually hang twenty…ok, maybe not, but they sure were cool.

Get right! Took this photo with the burst function of my iphone camera…it takes 16 photos in a second and though the format is weird and the resolution sucks, it is still a fun little thing to play with…This kid needs to be sponsored, so help him out with your connections and I promise great great things to whoever decides he is worthy…cause he is beyond good.

Took three photos with my iphone and it put tem together for me…fancy! Next thing you know, the iphone will be doing my surfing for me…

A crazy idea…helped Spencer glue up an alaia blank the other day…fun to play with wood and glue and tablesaws and creativity…sorry for the awful photo quality!

So many tears falling from the heavens today…

Think about how hard we all try to get shacked all the time and then realize that it’s just surf and that the shackless, homeless, and folks on the street try harder than any of us for a little shackage, shelter or coverup…It rained last night, complete with thunder and lightning, and I bet that just about everyone reading this blog had a roof over their head. I say this because I need to be reminded of my priorities now and then, and figure you do to. Give thanks and praise for the things you have, but do not let them define you…give them away freely and you will be blessed. Let your compassion define you instead and help a friend get shacked!

Found a fun-filled morning a few clicks north of here last Saturday. Pulled a solo mission to meet up with some folks but did not complete that mission objective… I did, however, end up finding some unexpected old friends…for triple bonus points! The crowd filled in with the morning light and by mid-day it was packed–most people were just bobbing around like buoys and the waves were there for the taking. The wind stayed away and the glassy sets kept rolling in. Finished off the session with a burger and capped of the morning with a siesta….NICE!

Two of my favorite barns…

This has got to be one of my favorite vistas…

…is where you find it….

The wind blows wherever it pleases. You hear its sound, but you cannot tell where it comes from or where it is going. So it is with everyone born of the Spirit. -John 3:8

Found a little somethin’ this morning…though I should of headed north to Jalama with some of you folks. Next time!

I got to hang Ten ten ten on 10/10/10…

Surf check 101!

You know it’s been good when you have this many suits drying!

Came upon this scene while checking for some waves…

This is one of my favorite passages and I think of it often…and wanted to share. “Rejoice in the Lord always. I will say it again: Rejoice! Let your gentleness be evident to all. The Lord is near. Do not be anxious about anything, but in everything, by prayer and petition, with thanksgiving, present your requests to God. And the peace of God, which transcends all understanding, will guard your hearts and your minds in Christ Jesus.

Finally, brothers, whatever is true, whatever is noble, whatever is right, whatever is pure, whatever is lovely, whatever is admirable — if anything is excellent or praiseworthy — think about such things. Whatever you have learned or received or heard from me, or seen in me — put it into practice. And the God of peace will be with you. “

Stop for a few seconds and think about where you are heading…1 mississippi, 2mississippi, 3mississippi…when you look back on your life, two, five, ten, fifty years from now, what do you want to have done, to be remembered for? Here is a Call Box, answer your calling and get going on those dreams, make life happen…

Man it was good yesterday, and again this morning and all glassy and some nice fun fast sets and crowd was chill and parking lot was full and life is good and then I got this coffee….Crazy! (sorry for the grain and focus, it was taken with the iphone, so is low-fidelity).

Hear hear to sunrise sessions…

A quick iphone shot of the Santa Barbara Pier…

Dwaine…Dwaine who?…Dwaine the baftub i’m dwowning! This painting gets mailed to whoever posts the best knock-knock joke in the comments section!

Drove south to meet up with my bro and found this cove with just one guy out and savory little peelers rolling in…the sun came out, the water warmed up and we were blessed with laughs, good conversation and much tip time. Yeah Lord!

Be thankful…

Started the day with an early morning session down south smiling because it looks like it should get better as the week progresses. Yet I look back to this sunset last night and realize that we spend, I spend, too much time looking forward trying to figure out what the future holds, and in the process the todays of our life melt into the yesterdays of our story and the “now” morphs into the “then” and with it disappears another wasted opportunity to seize the day and actually walk the walk…but here I am again just talking the talk and repeating the sequence…what shall today hold?

These flat cold foggy seas have forced me to subsidize the stoke meter with adult ed classes…spanish, guitar and jewelry making. Yeah, i know jewelry making isn’t exactly a macho thing to do, but who cares and besides, you get to play around with stuff like this anvil…and what could make you feel more alive than that…Be thankful for what you have and make the most of today, for tomorrow may never get here…but if it does, I hope there are waves. Blessings to all!

Went south by southwest for some tip time this morning at C st. Not much bigger that waist high, but super fun. Here is a shot of me and two of my favorite people!

Drove south last week and just kept going…ended up just north of the border with boards, bikes, sleeping bags and girl. Spent the last few days finding summer, sun, surf, sailboats, and the Lord’s sweet sweet love. Am back in the 93103 and stoked that the summer sun followed us north.

Looked for surf all weekend and didn’t find much…heard from the boys back in Maine that they got it all time.

Take time to figure out what you believe…

Wow, we are due for a swell and some sun…and it sounds like we might get both this weekend!

Here is a shot of my pops back in the 60′s…wish he were still here.

Drove south today through the fog towards clarity but it was only temporary and now the haze is back…the sun sets and offers a glimpse at the clarity of days ahead.

The days ahead are gloriously bright, I feel like it is all possible and right, like the sets are stacking up and we just have to ride one all the way in to the cove…stoked!

Surfy surfy surfy…just got back to the SB…Stoked!

Woweee…this was one cool sunrise. Still no surf here in Maine and only have a week to go…may the west coast swells of fall and winter start to do their thing…

The girl of my dreams arrives tonight!

Be a mirror!

Was messing around and took this self-portrait…kind of think it looks like a blackbird flying your way…

Sometimes you just need to change your point of view to change your point of view. Sometimes we see so much as to be blind to the scene and the seen, and those that are blind to so much see our unseen and un-scene. Choose to be blind to yourself and you will see others.

It’s one thing when you are surfing your local spot back home in Santa Barbara and some guy paddles out that you don’t recognize…you kind of nod and chalk it up to that-sucks-that-there-is-another-person-in-the-water-but-there-are-plenty-of-waves…but when you are in deep back-country coastal Maine and some VW van is parked in the local spot parking lot with a board strapped to the top, you can’t ignore the intrusion…never did find out who the surfer was…but fingered I’d take a ransom-shot…jk. Surf showed up this weekend. Yippeeeeeeee!

Early morning boat ride in the fog…looking forward to getting in the water over the next two days as a mid-summer swell hits Maine. Stoked!

Usually a date with the queen to me means an epic session at rincon but there is another queen that graced my night last night…The Night Blooming Cereus, also known as the Queen of the Night, is a wonder to be seen. Now, I am not some flower freak, but this thing is incredible. This flower only blooms once a year, and starts opening up as the sun sets, and by midnight is fully open…only to close again by the time the sun rises. It is ghostly white and light sensitive, so you have to watch it bloom in a very dark room- in this case it is in the painting studio of a great friend of mine. In any case, the only light we could illuminate it with were very dim colored lights, thus all these amazing hues (you don’t really get the full feeling from these photos, because the photo file is so big that when I have to compress it to post in on this site, the color hues get mixed up and pixelated, as seen above…email me and I will send you the large file for your viewing enjoyment). Click here for more shots from last night. Oh yeah, the smell is intoxicating and very similar to the night blooming jasmine that we have all over socal. yum.

I am off to the land of Grain Surfboards, empty cold water breaks, lobster and hurricane swells…MAINE! But don’t you worry, there will be plenty of updates to be had. Until then, here is a shot of what I found yesterday on my surf hunt…

This infectiously sweet shot was set up and taken by the very talented and amazing Ms. Kori Rider… I awoke to the sound of the fog horn this morning thinking of that beautiful afternoon back in Kauai, wishing I were back there. Most of Santa Barbara is covered in fog this morning, which means glassy little peelers and no crowd…meet me out there.

Yeah, you know who you are…

As I look out my window at the coming weekend I wonder: How will I make these days stand out? Will I dare to be different this weekend, or will time tick by, the dare unanswered? What is at the center of our being? My Answer: a deep love of God and doing right. Your Answer: …think about it. Whatever it is, I hope it grabs you this weekend and pushes you to be different. This could be your last weekend! I don’t mean to be morbid, but what if it were? Wouldn’t you have wanted to stand up for what you believe in, wouldn’t you want to be remembered for what you finally did on that last weekend of your life? It is said that it is easier to die for what you believe in than it is to live your entire life for it. Think about that! What are you going to choose? Make this weekend count…

…kept messing with that watercolor I posted back on 7·17·10…but am not sure which one I like better. It may have been a case of if-it-aint-broke-then-don’t-try-to-fix-it…which do you prefer?

Drove all over dodge to find a face, a lip, a bump or a lump…opted for photographically sliding into the future. Shot this surf’rig as it flew by a local spot- they weren’t interested in getting wet either…I like this shot ’cause it lets you decide for yourself how good that local spot looked today on the other side of the truck…could be going off!

Brush in hand, I spent some time last evening staring up at the heavens trying to replicate that immense perfection…check it out here.

Not always sure if it’s worth getting in…but figured I’d try. It was fun.

The swell is dying and this guy is making the most of that set. What a fun week if you were able to catch that south swell…spent last night with my good friend Michael, who is without home and lives on the streets. He goes without food for days and days at a time and is all skin and bones…so sad. I’ve been bringing him a turkey (he loves turkey) sandwich almost every night for about 10 days now (some nights he does not show up), and he is looking so much better. I don’t tell you all this to boast or to get your kudos, but to say tell you this: I asked him if he wanted me to change it up and get him a burger or other type of sandwich instead of the turkey and he said, when you are starving, you are just glad you get to eat and you’ll take anything. And that got me thinking…How starving are you guys? I don’t mean hungry, i mean in life, how hungry are you for compassion, for righting wrongs, for love, for goodness, for truth, for helping the less fortunate, for faithfulness? How hungry are you to truly live. I know I am way too content. Content with the roof over my head and the way I spend my days. Content that I help people here and there and feel good about myself. Contentment…where is the hunger? I need to go on a diet from this perverse reality where I find contentment in being able to buy things, always thinking of the next board I am going to get or the surf vacation I am going on or whatever. How much fat can we cut out of our contentment to be leaner and more hungry for life. What a rant this has become, but I am serious. How hungry are you? Cause if we were truly starving to find direction, instead of this aimless to and thro thing most of us have going on, i guarantee that you we would be glad with even a morsel of simple truth…It is said that “the fruit of the Spirit is love, joy, peace, patience, kindness, goodness, faithfulness”…How hungry are you?

Drove by this scene yesterday on the PCH…miles and miles of open ocean and emptiness being filled with some pretty sick drum beats. Talk about rocking out for God. It was a sick show!

Strengthen the feeble hands, steady the knees that give way…found surf in LA today (it is much bigger than you think).

Defend the cause of the weak and fatherless; maintain the rights of the poor and oppressed…

Not much surf around these parts this last week…thoughts of moving to Nica on my mind, thinking sometimes we just need to see the open doors and jump right in!

…a work in progress…–>7·29·10

Life is so so precious…and so I write to all of you to let you know that famed surfboard shaper Al Merrick’s granddaughter, Daisy Merrick, is fighting for her life this morning…At 6 years old, she has been fighting cancer for the last 9 months, and though she was in remission, it is back on the attack. She needs your prayers this morning, keep her in your thoughts and just love on her from wherever you are.  If you shortboard you have probably at one time or another surfed an Al Merrick shape, or ridden a board that was influenced by his designs.  He is a part of your life’s story and you are part of his…It is said that it takes a village to raise a child, well you are part of His village and so I ask for you to do what you can to lift her up and help raise her out of these difficult times. Pray for her, keep her in your hearts and thoughts and, like these ladybugs, together we can have an impact.   Life is so so precious.

You are stopped, at this very moment, at life’s crossroads: time to figure out how you want to live…really, truly live. The train of time is about to charge right by and it’s decision time! If you are like me, you probably think that you can put off that decision, let the train pass and cross these train tracks, since there will most likely be another set of tracks down the winding road…but what if this is it? What if today is your last day, these are your last tracks? This could be your last chance to jump onboard and charge towards eternity. I hope you’ll turn off your car and think about this for a moment longer before crossing the tracks. Seriously, stop what you are doing, look into the review mirror and decide if that is how you want to be remembered. Now look forward and live the way you know you should…stop meandering and get on that train! My grandfather once said that “We are not eternity conscious enough”…think about it.

“As charcoal to embers and as wood to fire, so is a quarrelsome man for kindling strife.” This one is for sale…all proceeds to go to Orphan Network.

…return to me with all your heart!

Found a little surf these last few days, but we’ve had to travel far and wide just to find it. Ran into a friend that is separating from his wife because things just aren’t working out and I thought I would pepper this post with a little depth instead of staying in the shallows just talking about my not so epics last few sessions…”Peacemakers who sow in peace raise a harvest of righteousness.” …be the peacemaker, humility is key. It is never our fault, pride is always there to rub our back and say “don’t worry about it, you are right” or “she is this or she is that or she just doesn’t get me” and so we blame the other person or….The grass is always greener and we think the next girl is going to understand us completely, when in fact we don’t want to open up our shells to let anyone in. Be the peacemaker, meet halfway, and if needed take another step or two towards humility and away from pride. Realize that we have the power to change…the problem is you and you must be willing to fix yourself if the machinery of marriage is to work…be the peacemaker.

Been playing my new guitar…this long exposure was shot in low candlelight and weird fluorescent lighting…here are some lyrics from a song I’ve really been digging lately…”Your eyes are doves behind your veil. Your hair is as a flock of goats…”

An old guy drove by with a smile on his face, the folds of his leathery skin spoke volumes to the sacrifice he has made for this way of life…no 9 to 5 for this guy, definitely not of this world he drives the road before him, an easy smile, a board and a purpose…As I took this shot this quote came to mind: “Let your conversation be always full of grace, seasoned with salt, so that you may know how to answer everyone.”

There are a few little coverups to be found in this south swell…and this shot perfectly illustrate’s today’s quote: “I have learned to be satisfied with whatever I have”. Think on this one for a while, really chew on it…we always think that the grass is always greener on the other side of our perspective. This break is only waist-high, but I am sure that that other spot is at least headhigh. We tend to want what we don’t have, at the expense of all that we did to get to where we are. We can be so A.D.D about life. I tend to think of things in relation to my life’s perceived continuum projecting before me for another 60 years…but it could all end today, this could be my last wave. Why do we run so fast to get to the finish line, why not enjoy the ride…even if it is just waist-high.

Sorry I have been m.i.a. I walked off into the darkness to try to find the light and did not bring a camera nor a computer to update my blog…the good news, however, is that I found the light and it was from within. I’ve spent a good part of the last three weeks since my last post trying to define and refine things, call it spring cleaning, call it soul searching, call it way too many things on my plate and not enough want for the mental and spiritual clutter that a full plate brings, I have been trying to simplify. I have been trying to focus, looking for purpose…and talking to friends I find that many of them, and maybe many of you, have walked off into that same darkness, searching…

This is what is said of Truth, “you will seek me and find me when you seek me with all your heart. I will be found by you.” and in seeking with all of mine, I have found it in my faith. It pray that you are seeking with all of your heart…seriously, ALL of your heart.

the summer doldrums have forced my surfing to the internet…where I found this totally radical video…somebody had way too much time on their hands…but I am glad they did. Good job. Enjoy!

We were body whomping when this floating head charged us…man, what an ugly scary hungry monster…ehwwwwww, that thing was gnarly. Luckily it attacked some spongers instead!

fun evening in the surf as memories flashed across a painted sky…

Had such a fun day in the water…local spots were blowing up…nothing huge, but big enough for some memories to be planted. I want more.

Found a little south swell down south…the summer doldrums are here and are echoed in my heart beat sounding like dull drums…no excitement here, no headhigh and glassy…but warm water and fog…force us to the logs…the ebb and flow ers of summer!

Lots of body whomping on this trip…lots of sand in my ears…

It is good indeed!

Nothing seems quite real on the garden isle…everything’s a little too right on, too green, a little too sweet, a little too glassy and head high, a little too perfect…even the murals seem to melt into reality and back.

Found more surf today, more size, more wind and more challenging…got worked and came home smiling…

We surfed into the late evening last night…sunset was ridiculous and though it was crazy offshore and pretty much blown out everywhere, we found a not-too-crowded left point break that was beautiful and it even got glassy as the day ended with a sunset splash of colors into the ocean…FUN.

Arrived yesterday and spending most of today working via internet…but it’s not so bad when the view from the office porch is like this one.

I LOVE THE TROPICS!

A new look at my quiver…I know, I know, I should have hung up that wetsuit to dry…I am off to Kauai for 10 days and can’t promise that I will update this blog…but will try. Aloha!

Summer swells are coming north and looking south we wish for surf but skunks abound.

Had an average session here today with two good’ol friends, fun times, warm water and such…until my last wave which stepped it up and offered me a beautiful coverup and fast shoulder high wall…thus elevating the session into the top ten of 2010 category…funny how one wave can make the session and memory bank!

Time to think about heading to tropical waters…headed to Kauai next week and stoked. Gonna try to find some southswell down south this weekend, maybe snake some old friends.

Took this one with my iphone…gotta love those pixels.

Finally found the time to paint…and have a few projects in the hopper…this one’s for sale (go to the Art&Design section at the top of the page).

Looking for surf…

Took a shot of these locks on a fence at my favorite local spot…There is a tradition in certain places around the world that I have come to really appreciate and figured I’d share with you, as I contemplate adding my own lock to the bunch. It is said that wherever you fall in love (as I have on this wave) you should leave a lock and throw away its key…the lock symbolizes your promise to never separate from your one true love. In any case, you should check out google images for “lovers locks” and you will see what I mean…then you should place a lock for your one true love…

There is something special about those old International Scouts: nice clean lines, no fancy tricks up their sleeve, just good ol fashion off-roaders, ready for adventure and build tough as a ten cent steak. They are certainly up there on the list of ideal surfmobiles…this one in particular said Life-is-easy-when-you’re-chill-and-summer-is-around-the-corner…

Shot through the lens of my polarized sunglasses…I was really digging the way it looked with glasses on, so figured I’d share what I was seeing. Wish it had been chest high.

A little bump out there this morning…and a few guys out…southward in search of more size.

Shot out the window while keeping my eyes on the road less traveled…

Went down to the Corner and no one out…not much for waves, but when you get her to yourself you can’t be picky…surfed ’til sunset…it rocked!

Had fun at this spot yesterday…did not have my camera, so figured I’d post a shot of what it looked like last week with all that wind.

A photo from a previous dawn patrol to set the mood…

I awake to find that I miss Guatemala and shall be back soon…

Life is a balance…yin & yang = surfer & sun…

SORRY sorry…got back from Guatemala, am moving houses, working multiple jobs, fighting some pesky bug I picked up down south and just swamped with goodness…seriously, seriously, I am back and will post daily…surf is small and fun, good to get back in the water.

A lifetime of emotions have painted their lines across the horizon of her brow…

Just got back from Guatemala and am suffering a little bit from culture shock…will be back to “normal” soon and will be posting shots everyday again starting tomorrow (I will also backpost shots for the last two weeks)…surf is blown out and so will be posting some shots from the trip. Here is a shot from a live volcano that we climbed just outside of Antigua, Guatemala…It erupted two days after I took this shot and unfortunately killed two of the guides that we helping to get people to safety.

The sun sets on an incredible trip…we are definitely going back!

What’s crazier…hiking up a live volcano and staring into red hot chambers of lava as your shoes melt from heat, or roasting marshmallows over those pits of lava and bbq’ing hotdogs…Crazy?

Lava Rocks!

How can you look at this kid and not do anything. As soon as we walked into the Jackson House (just outside of Antigua, Guatemala) we knew we had to help…and so we stayed for the next four days (until it was time to fly back to California). We were told to scrub up and help take care of the 20 undernourished/malnourished (both nutritionally and emotionally) babies by feeding and burping them all every three hours…not to mention changing some gnarly diapers and love love loving them. It was emotionally difficult to feed one when 19 others were crying for food and love, hard to put one down when you knew she would fall to pieces in tears, but harder not to, knowing the others we starving or needing to be held. I fell in love with this little one immediately (her name was Angel), she was 2.5months old and only about 3lbs (I was almost 10lbs when I was born) and so so cute and hungry and all skin and bones and just absolutely the smallest thing I have ever seen…Those big eyes melted my heart. Then there were kids like Guadalupe, who was 4 months old and did not know how to eat, having never been breastfed by a mother that was also starving…I would have to force feed her her bottle, practically drowning her in milk as she swallowed more air than food, and had to be burped constantly. It was so adorable to hear the biggest and deepest of manliest burps coming from such a small package being forcefully rocked on my shoulder…and then there were 18 other similar stories.

So hard to think about these little boys and girls going without food, hugs, kisses and love…as you read this.

We helped our new friends start a community feeding program…we made 100 sandwiches and walked around the pueblo of Alotenango (which is fittingly also known as El Rincon…funny that I always end up at the Queen) and passed them out to the pobres. You should have seen their smiles. Houses with poor blind old men, or a 100yr old woman that was as young as half that age, or a house with 12 orphaned kids–each one of them bursting into the biggest of smiles at the gift of food and love. It was an incredible day and though we were only there for the first feeding, we have been supporting our new friends with monetary and emotional support to continue every week. Please send donations for this program, if you feel inclined to give, to gpravenhill.at.gmail.com via Paypal. Thanks.

This kid rips…had a great session today at the queen and this kid was all smiles as he seemingly got every set wave. He was all of about 3 feet tall and so most of the waves were easily double overhead (not this one)…Gnars. I am off to Guatemala until the 18th…so no updates until then. Go surf!

Am selling this surfboard

Where is your focus?

No wind early this morning if you were here…

A fun week spent with the boys from Maine…

Man talk about chopping broccoli, the wind is on it and the surf is sloppy, but the low hanging fruits of fun are ripe for the picking if you know where to go…

go go gadget surf!

The south swell killed our dreams for a magical morning at the Queen and so we drove south in search of better options. We surfed as the sun climbed into the heavens, but those dreams remained deferred: like a raisin in the sun they fester like a sore, and then run. They stink like rotten meat and crust and sugar over like a syrupy sweet. Maybe they just sag like a heavy load. And then explode?

Hiked in and got it to ourselves…

Light?

I love this one…especially that little splash of color and water in the bottom right corner.

Off on a walkabout in search of dingos…

Seek with all your heart…

Another from the shot-while-driving-on-the-highway-and-reaching-out-the-window-with-camera-but-still-looking-ahead-so-as-not-to-crash series…

I’m loving daylight savings time…

The sun sets on the past and a new day arrives…

Today=surf sunrise sesh, eat breakfast burrito, walk it off, study the Word, hike, surf, maybe yoga, then Jaeger Chilly Cook Off=perfection.

Have a great weekend…

This reflection of the Con as seen through my windshield led to further reflections on hindsight as I drove down the road watching my future fade away into my past in the rear-view mirror thinking how we are all so focused on the destination ahead never really paying attention to the view out the window always concerned with our own path not sharing the road or giving way to others or God and just searching searching when all we ever wanted slips into the rearview mirror and we just had to stop and surrender the keys…

Went to surf this secret spot…and the Con’ditions were far from epic. But found some magic at the rebound spot down the road…alone and happy.

Kids see with their hearts, point the way with their fingers and laugh loud…here I am holding my good friend Clayton…yet I feel like I am the one being molded, finding purity, joy, youth, laughter, passion and truth through the eyes of Clay. I’m thankful.

It’s always more fun with friends…

This homemade sticker…found on the back of a vw bus…says it all…

Sometimes a smile is born and creeps across your face as you walk up to a familiar little cove and see that you are alone…the smile grows up and explodes into a million little smiles, and stoke is born.

“It may be hard for an egg to turn into a bird: it would be a jolly sight harder for it to learn to fly while remaining an egg. We are like eggs at present. And you cannot go on indefinitely being just an ordinary, decent egg. We must be hatched or go bad.” -C. S. Lewis

Simplicity is key…

A new shirt to get you through this El Niño …

Overexposed.

The calm before more rain…San Diego, CA!

Big big surf, but blown out and a mess, but we still went out…

Campesinos…

Name that spot…i love that game…this one’s a little easy…but a good warm up run…am on my way south tonight and excited to hit up some old haunts…

Waves come and go like water under the bridge…memories of adventures and friends stay stuck in the sand, shaping the next wave to wash under the bridge.    Just got featured on the Daily Shaka…the newest place to surf when it’s flat everywhere else. Stoked!

What a weekend…

Flannel, Shotguns, Coffee, Ventucky!

Think about the less fortunate this weekend…as the rain comes down a drowns away dreams…think of how nice it is to be warm and dry, how nice is that roof over your head, really think and think long about how thankful you should be to have a computer by your side to check the surf or this blog, let alone enough money to feed yourself and those you love, maybe you should buy a stranger a meal or give them a dry shirt…share your love…i will…see you out there…

Two Guys, One Camper and Nine Boards…Wish I had been part of that trip…I came upon this rig on the PCH and all I could think of as I passed by and shot this photo were the weeks and weeks of uncrowded perfect breaks, fish tacos, wailing guitars and bonfire dreams…time to head south I say!

Today was a good day…

Took this shot out of the car window, while driving down the highway on my way to cash in my surf check…

Small one person studio for rent, no pets allowed except for fish, non-traditional floorplan, long hallway with jade green walls…please apply inside.

Not a great shot, but the only one I took yesterday…was too busy surfing.

Home sweet home…

Good to be back.

Am off to Catalina for three days…if there is no internet I will post up when I get back…What a weekend!

YEAH!

As promised, here are some more Iceberg barrels (The last photograph is from a different wave sequence, but is so juicy that I thought I’d include it)…if you look at the 4th shot in the sequence there is a small dark spec right above the right side of the wave (left side if you were on the wave) which can also be seen a little bit better higher in shot 5…that’s a bird with a 12-16″ wingspan…when seeing these blue barrels from the ship I assumed they were about chest high…it was dificult to gauge the size not having anything for scale. It was not until I really looked at these shots that I saw the bird and thus could measure these babies at about 10ft+…Amazing. Check out the Antarctica Portfolio for more shots…

Another shot from the Antarctica files…more Antarctic surf shots to be posted mañanazoomed way in to take this shot with my little digital camera while in Uruguay…kinda pixelated but nice…

Tried the wide angle feature on the camera…kind of fun…Uruguay!

Am back in town…and drowning in over 3000 photos taken since I left. It’ll take me some time to sift through the pile so I figured I’d post an appetizer. Surf is still here and I am excited to get back in. It has been too long.

HAPPY!

Sorry for not giving you a heads up…was in Haiti for Christmas and 5 days after getting back to SB, the quake hit and well, it’s been horrific. It is just so so sad, words just simply are to feeble to describe the loss. My mom has been put in charge of US medical relief in Haiti and is swamped with logistical nightmares and short supplies of just about everything…I am in Argentina, having just returned from a ten day cruise to Antarctica, where I found this wave. At about 3-4feet overhead, in the middle of the ocean, breaking off an iceberg (many more photos to come, and yes, those are the real colors, it has not been color corrected or tweaked in any way, that is what it looked like…surreal) it had certainly never been ridden, and unfortunately probably never will be (I did not have my surf gear on the cruise). Exciting to think how many more of these are out there. Am in Argentina and Uruguay for the next few days and will upload more photos than you can handle when I am back stateside. What a crazy year this has been. Pray for healing in Haiti.

Wow it’s getting good out there right now…even bigger tomorrow!

Man the ocean was delicious this weekend…so many treats to be had, and I am still hungry…luckily this watery buffet of set waves is sticking around for the week. Getting back in soon.