Reminiscences 12·29·09

Am far far away in the Caribbean and while it is very nice and warm and perfectly tropical, I have missed yet another epic swell…I’ve been posting shots from the swell we got right before I took off about a week ago, and post this shot as a toast to all of you who got it good yesterday and the day before…Good’on ya, the reports I got were that it was all time.

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