Surfbird

Am far far away in the Caribbean and while it is very nice and warm and perfectly tropical, I have missed yet another epic swell…I’ve been posting shots from the swell we got right before I took off about a week ago, and post this shot as a toast to all of you who got it good yesterday and the day before…Good’on ya, the reports I got were that it was all time.

When it’s on, it”s on…Doesn’t anybody work anymore? So so fun…It just keeps going and going and going…

Oh, to be inside that room…can you spy a hunched-over figure trying to make it out?

Take a moment to think, search your heart and give thanks for all we have. Merry Christmas.

…and it just keeps getting better!

…and surf and smile.

Flew out to Haiti last night and am here for two weeks…will look for surf, but tis’ not the season for Caribbean surf. So will be posting random images and old shots from recent swells…Here is a shot from last week, really had a lot of fun that day surfing this spot.

…just right…

Epic?

…enough said

I’ve been courting the Queen these last few days, and she has definitely returned the love with some incredible sessions…here is a shot I took pre-session yesterday during the low tide…I like this shot for a lot of reasons, one of them being the guy boosting the pelican-like-air…see the incredibly pixelated shot below.

A man named Freedom passed away a few days back. A war veteran and friend to all, he lived on the streets and was a ray of light. My girl and I met him two nights before he passed, and in that short time really came to consider him a friend. It has been cold, wet and nasty here these last few days, and the elements got the best of him. We are blessed with food, clothes, warmth, friends and family…not to mention being free to surf at will. So be grateful for what you have and please consider sharing your resources, friendship and love with those in need. What would you give for your Freedom?

Today’s session came in under the radar and the crowds missed it…super low tide but smiles all around.

He made this bottom turn and charged into a closeout barrel…gnarlz.

Found some fun steep ones this morning near County Line, it was glassier up north closer to home, where I took this shot but I opted for size…and I found it. I took the photo through the window of my truck, while parked on the shoulder of the 101…i kind of like how the door frames the right side of the shot…a total accident, but cool.

The swell is definitely here, found a nice somewhat uncrowded spot this morning, excited for the pm session. Took this shot as I was driving south…

Rain rain go away, come back another day, it you don’t, we don’t care, we’ll go surf…if we dare? Man the water is chocolate mud pie soup, and still every lineup was full this morning on the gold coast.

Found more than I expected today…more waves, more surfers, more salad.

Not much surf to be found…but always checking.

Got a little surf yesterday and got a little cold this morning…but it was worth it. On a different note I am loving the new look at wablog!