Surfbird

Looking up…

So so thankful…

A great morning session at the con…

The swell is fading and the mid-week doldrums eminent…luckily there is a whole lot of pie in our future.

So nice.

I surfed somewhere else today, but this was surely the biggest wave to be found…

The sweet afterglow of a delicious day wafts over the horizon, delicately dancing a slow waltz across the drifting lines of swelldom, not a sound is heard beyond the sleepy shorebreak and twinkling stars. We are safe and sound, basking in the warmth of a purposeful day spent in the pursuit of truth. Surf and epiphanies were had and horizons expanded, as time slowly turns the afterglow dimmer switch to night.

Found some more surf last night at this spot…the swell was barely showing then and there were some sweet rides to be had…but it’s fully on right now, so am out of here to get some more.

yeeeeyeah!

…You’ll never know dear…

Am back from a crazy trip to the East Coast…no waves were found, but plenty of adventures. So good to be back in California, excited to make things happen, super stoked on the possibilities…

I’m out of here… taking off for the weekend and won’t be posting for a few days…sea ya!

Surf is here. Here is surf.

Sometimes there’s no surf…always plenty of birds…which admittedly are pretty boring…but…so is no surf…so here is a bird.

No surf means being able to scan old and not-so-old photos…and then realizing you spend way too much time updating your blog and should instead be driving to Mexico where there is undoubtedly big uncrowded surf.

Full moon session tonight at this spot…see you there (or not, depending on how dark it is).

The world sure seemed flat today, not a ripple on the ocean. Here is a shot that I took through the sideview mirror of the Tacoma while on a surfcheck…I took it while driving and kinda just shot from the “hip”, the focus is a little off but so am I. Hope to see more surf in that mirror soon.