Surfbird

Not much surf to be found this morning but might jump in with a log and ride some ankle breakers…here is a shot from last Tuesday.

The swell went away as fast as it showed up…but even in these dire times this guy manages to keep a roof over his head…good job man, wave of the day in a day without waves.

How are you living? What do you seek? What do you find when you look back and sea?

Wow surf was good this morning…

Wow the ocean was big and angry today…went to this spot and got it good with just one other guy out. It was way bigger than I expected and the offshore winds were keeping the faces open just long enough to entice us in, and though I got a handful of crazy fast rides, I mostly got worked…feeling humbled I got out after only an hour and took some shots as the afterwork crowd filled in. This one doesn’t really show the size, but I like the idea.

PARTY WAVE…it’s sessions like this that make you want to leave home in search of more secluded breaks. Alejandros sounds real good right now…as does just about any spot closer to the equator.

The Niño has arrived and is bringing it! The swell is building again and it is time to head back to the water, the waves, the Con.

I can get lost for hours looking at this wave…and somehow completely find myself at the same time.

a surfbird?

Surf was good last night…and everyone knew it. Still picked off some nice ones despite the crowd.

I HEART SURFING

Found surf today and man was it good to get wet…surfed all evening ’til way past dark….here is a shot from the surf check prior to getting in.

Hey party people, sorry for the lack of posts but had to drop everything and fly to Kentucky to celebrate the life of Grandpa Jack…am back in Cali now and posting up…Here is a video to encourage you all to follow your dreams–Grandpa Jack was a close family friend and like everyone who met him, I quickly adopted him as my own grandfather.  At 90yrs. old he released his third CD and was living his dream…SMILE!

This surf session brought to you by the wonderful people at Rainbow Sandals…making sure that every wave we catch feels as smooth as a well-worn pair of your favorite sandals.

Really itchin’ to go go go…been looking at tickets to Panama and thinking I might need to go soon…this photo, though blurry, says it all.

Happy Birthday to my favorite Latina.

No waves.

Found some surf this morning…

Did not surf today, did not take any photos today…did not watch TV either. Found this shot from my trip to Honduras last June, thought I’d share. Sharing is caring. Wouldn’t mind changing the channel to something with a little more surf…

Saw Dominic Bali tonight in Ventura…check him out, it was a pretty great show!

All in a day’s work…

Like a raisin in the sun…

Talk about style points…

Surfed today but man was it tiny…here’s a shot of a surfbird of paradise instead.

Went to check the surf and everyone else was doing the same…drive, stop, check, frown, drive again…repeat! But at least these guys were doing it in style.