Surfbird

Checked all sorts of spots today and didn’t find much…ended up surfing this 10’2″ Takayama Model T down south…which was perfect cause it doesn’t need much of a wave to get it going…fun wind-slop, but fun nonetheless.

No surf today, but a nice desert sunset…

Found a little something today…There was some nice size (chest-to-head-high) down south in Ventura for the morning session, but with the size came the thickest crowd I’ve seen there in a long long time…opted for the Queen on rounds two and three…much better crowd setup, but small. Here’s a a shot that kind of sums up the day…making something out of nothing!

No surf today…but lots of SUP’s looking like they were street sweeping their way to the horizon…

Funsylvania!

Found surf today.

The Surfbird Store is finally up…it’s an evolving project and will be updated as new art projects come to life.

Went to check it, and the parking lot said it all…

Trying to spice up an otherwise dry photo session…

The swell showed up last thursday and lasted through most of the weekend…spent most of those sessions at this break and a few down south in Ventura. The fog lasted all weekend and made for some incredible shots…but every time I framed a cool photo in my mind, I was in the water getting some waves–the camera safely tucked away in the car…and so you are left with these not so interesting shots…really wish there had been a cool something or other for the foreground of this shot…but I still kind of like the gradient.

A beautiful afternoon and glassy chest high sets made for a fun session today at the Queen. The water was apple pie warm. Playing with the exposure on this shot in an attempt to give you a taste of that apple pie…

Good to get back in the socal swing of things…morning sessions and empty secret spots…

Got home and got wet…sent the “waterproof” digi to Canon for a fix, got the real camera out and am ready for a fun new season of surf, laughs, and smiles…enjoy!

A long long hike down an empty coast to this gem of a spot…got a little water in the ‘Waterproof” camera and am pretty upset, but I guess it makes for an interesting blurring effect….that being said, the camera is out of commission and so you are stuck with this photograph until my return to Cali…

So beautiful!

Out of focus, I know…but that is what vacations in Hawaii are about…loose your focus and gain freedom.

Kauai!

Am leaving soon to go find secret spot #349862…

Sometimes I imagine these as dandelions blowing in the wind…but there was no wind blowing and so the seeds of change remain in want, and the little kid inside me keeps wanting to kick them into the air, wanting to see those seeds do their thing.

Off to Kauai on friday…PSYCHED!

So much glass + a little hurricane headed our way = stokage!

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