Massive 8·23·09

You can’t really tell from this photo but that wave is about headhigh…

Had to escape the island today to find non-suicidal surf…waves were coming in at way way overhead and very non-makeable (not that that is really a word)…Checked a number of spots and they were all in the 10-12ft faces category, scary and very hollow.. we chose a headhigh+ spot that was fun fun fun…

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