Surfbird

…and sometimes peace.

How fun would a covert op across the border be in this wave hunting machine…

Yeah surf, surf, surf and glass glass glass, not the blue glass-kind, but the no-wind-glass-kind…fun to be in the water and excited for the little bump we are getting this weekend.

It’s taken me a few days to get back into things here, but am now really back and ready for some adventures…

These images were inspired by one of my favorite photographers of all time…Gallen Rowell. It’s good to be back in Cali and nice that there are some waves.

A little south swell in the water for my return to Cali…and a hot new Patagonia wetsuit for the coming winter season…stoked to take it slow and enjoy the El Niño ride.

En route to SB…so psyched!

You can’t really tell from this photo but that wave is about headhigh…

Had to escape the island today to find non-suicidal surf…waves were coming in at way way overhead and very non-makeable (not that that is really a word)…Checked a number of spots and they were all in the 10-12ft faces category, scary and very hollow.. we chose a headhigh+ spot that was fun fun fun…

Hurricane Bill just showed up and we’re off…loaded the lobster boat and headed to Shipwrecks for some fun shoulderhigh cold angry monsters…waves out here seem a little more angry than our waves back home…still had a ball!

Another view of sunset through the 4″ high shorebreak…

Went to the beach tonight for sunset and got the waterproof digi in some great 4inch thick ankle breaker barrels…here is the view from within.

First off I want to say that I’ve been hiding on an island off the coast of Maine all summer with very limited internet connectivity and as such have not been updating this site daily…but have been trying to retroactively get shots up whenever possible. I’ll be back in SB next week and all will be back to order, yeah! The moon is doing her thing and the tides are crazy high. The swell is building, you can feel it rumbling over the horizon, and though the ocean is crazy flat and there is not a speck of wind it is definitely the calm before the all-too-real-storm…Hurricane Bill is scheduled to push some surf up this way right in time for a proper send off. They’re calling for 4-6ft swell @ 16seconds for saturday morning…which around these parts means a solid headhigh…building to 6-8ft by evening…we’ll probably surf the secret spots around here and then hit the road early sunday heading north towards Canada as the swell builds to 14-18ft…which would blow out the local spots and will make a few northern outer reefs come to life…and so I end this post with a quote by Margo in one of my favorite surf flicks…”I’m just frothing mate, I’m that excited, I’ve got butterflies and all those funny twitches in my stomach”!

So excited to trade in this Birch tree for SoCal’s palms, these flat Maine waters for a Pacified ocean, fun times for fun times….but first I have a date with Hurricane Bill.

Excited to get some painting done this evening…

Sparkling!

There is surf heading this way…and I can just about see it coming over the horizon. Hurricane Bill is coming!

The boat is complete…will have more shots soon. Excited to be back to SB in a week…bring on the Pacific Ocean.

Ready to put the skin on…only a few days left.

Almost done with the boat…things are moving fast.

This is how we ride longboards in Maine…

This photo makes me think of how fast summer is passing by…

My brother and now new sister just got married today…well technically they eloped, then got in a boat we build four years ago and sailed away…but not before we were able to attach some cans to the transom and stick a just married sign on the boat in proper wedding fashion…Congratulations you pirates! Photo taken by Spencito Kawamoto….what’s a pirate’s favorite letter?….P, its like an RRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR but it’s missing a leg.

You could win this boat for $20! Will have details for you soon.

The summer sun decided to play today…and the fog ran away.

All day hike in Acadia National Park…

Another beautiful sunrise…

Yeah yeah, I am really happy with this shape, needs a little oil and she’ll be ready to go…assuming we ever get some real surf around here I’ll post more photos of bottom contours and can email shots of other details if ya want…Dimensions: 6’6″ X 15″&7/8 X 3/4″