Surfbird

Half way through the boat building camp…and she’s coming right along.

Got so many surf reports and epic-session-stories these last few days I figured I should just fly home and get ready for miracle summer swell #2…but then I remembered the all-time-offshore-and-glassy-head-high-plus-swells that Maine is so well known for and figured I’d wait it out here…in the fog.

Here we go…glued up a blank and started hand planing my first Alaia…will have shots of the finished product very soon…so fun!

Had my fingers crossed that some of that west coast miracle swell would sneak over to the east coast…this is all I found, knee high shore break…Man I’m blowing it, should be in SB right now…

Two keepers…

Started making an Alaia today…will post photos of the process sometime soon. Supposed to be a little bump making its way towards Maine this weekend and I’ve decided that some wake surfing might have to happen if the swell is a noshow.

The epic surf never made it here today, the storm weakened and ankle breakers were about the best thing around and so with that I post a photo taken almost exactly a month ago on a nice day in LA Co. (by the way, he makes the section and glides down the line for quite a nice long ride).

Calling for surf in the morning, water’s warmed up to a balmy 50 Degrees Fahrenheit…can’t wait to duck dive.

Another wonderful evening…

Life on an island has a tendency to slow way down yet somehow days fly by…checked the surf three times today, it’s definitely building and we might actually get in early this week and in turn you might get to see secret spot #32 going off somewhere off the coast of Maine…come on olas!

We just finished the first week of boatbuilding…and this is what she looks like. What a joy it is to work with wood, with your hands, with kids, with family–so fun! Have big plans to shape another surfboard and a few Alaias this summer…maybe I’ll start this weekend. No surf here in Maine, so I hope one of you out there is getting some for me…thanks.

For Lil’ and Betty…a beautiful sunset.

Wouldn’t mind being in Costa right about now…a little birdie told me it’s going off…:)

Island time means dial-up internet…but no rush-hour commute…Here is a shot of a Beach Rose on a foggy day.

Am off to Maine today for 6 weeks. I run a boat building camp there (for kids ages 7-18) during the summer and am stoked to go. Check out the website www.islesfordboatworks.org, it’s a great program and great fun, though I have to rebuild the site…we have not updated it in a while and it needs some TLC. In any case the camp is on an island off the coast and sure enough there is surf (very good and uncrowded surf)…but unfortunately it is certainly not as consistent as Cali and so I will take this opportunity to delve into various photo projects and may stray from surf-only content ( i hope you’ll forgive me:)…So with that… see you in Maine.

Yee-Haww!

If you’re ever in the neighborhood make sure to stop by this place and stay a while…

This wave was right around the corner from our hostel…(for scale look for the guy about to drop in on the right shoulder).

Found an exact Central American replica of Rincon on this last trip…the cobbled point, the long rides, even the way the trees hug the beach were the same…less of course the crazy crowd. Here is a shot of a local grom checking it…

One of the friendliest places on earth…a true definition of community.

Wow what a crazy trip to Central America…we planned on a two week trip to Honduras and ended up having to make our way out of the country about a week in after a coup shut down all the roads and airports and things got messy…after quite a bit of maneuvering we found ourselves in El Salvador for the best swell they’ve had all year. We posted up at a chill little hostel and surfed the building swell…Just got back last night and already thinking of my next trip south to those magical breaks…definitely going back soon.

Solo session…