Surfbird
When
You can still sometimes wonder off the beaten path and find a perfect left with nobody out…
A wonderful day at a wonderful break…
I got it…
I really liked this study of negative and positive space and would challenge you to think about which one is more powerful in your life.
Ain’t summer Gr8? Packing my bags as we speak and flying south tonight to Honduras…stoked. There’s no internet where I am going and so I am given an opportunity to rethink how I do things…I started this site as a metaphorical branding iron–red hot, ready to poke me into action–so that I’d be motivated to shoot everyday. Well, if you have ever tried to do this, it is quite difficult but a fun exercise in discipline. I try, try, try to shoot everyday, and almost all of these shots are posted the same day that they were taken, but sometimes I don’t shoot, or maybe I have way too many fun or good shots I want to share from previous days, and then they take precedent and get posted…I guess it has turned into an exercise in complete objectivity and randomness…all of which luckily revolves around my surfing obsession. So anyways, today I fly south and have pre-posted an assortment of shots from past shoots to keep you entertained until my return…enjoy
The Bu went off this week…
Yeah weekend! Almost time to pack the bags for Honduras…so stoked.
Wow did I get some epic sessions full of lefts in LA these last couple days…yes, I surf goofy and this south swell is exactly what the doctor ordered to cure my summertime SB no-surf blues…Here is a shot from a cliff south of Co. Line, definitely one of those semi-secret spots with zero crowd and all sorts of surf.
I come down to LA about once a week to work with a client whose office is right on the beach…surfed Topanga this sunrise and had a blast…here is a pretty mediocre shot of the view from my office. I can see Sunset and Topanga from here and they’re going off with the changing tide. Go get it!
Made it to LA Co. today and hit up some great spots…had a 4hr. long evening sesh. full of lefts, lefts, lefts. This photo doesn’t do the session justice. It was consistently shoulder to headhigh (with a few overhead sets) and the kelp was glassing it off…so fun!
Lowers was going off today (as reported by a little birdie) and SB was just not…Did not get in today and starting to get a little dehydrated. Am off to LA county for two days in the morning for some hydration therapy and salt baths…see you there.
What a fun weekend…found waves everyday and even had a couple double sessions…went camping, did yoga, swam in a very warm Pacific, met new peeps, enjoyed old ones, ate some tasty food and smiled smiled smiled.
Had some great waves here yesterday, and the swell is supposed to stick around through the week…on my way out the door to find some more.
YEAH, just got out of session number two…waist high glassy, maybe even as big as bellybutton high, really long rides all the way to the cove. Yeah! Got a new waterproof/shockproof/stoke-giving/ugly-looking/but-great-photo-taking digital camera yesterday and put it through it’s paces today…And just as advertised I am stoked. Everyone looking for a waterproof/shockproof/stoke-giving/ugly-looking/but-great-photo-taking digital camera should get the new Canon PowerShot D10! Enjoy your weekend!
Optimism is waking up to waist high sets and thinking, or knowing that you’ll find head high surf further down the road…on a day when they weren’t even calling for anything past knee high.
Found a little surf today…little being the operative word, but still fun.
I really like this shot of El’Marinero. It was shot in maine on a cold winter night, it’s about to snow and the raging Nor’Easter is bringing in some serious swell…its taken at the beach while checking the surf. I am posting this shot because El’M. just got back from sea today with only 9 fingers…that is pretty heavy stuff and its been weighing on my mind and heart since the phone call from the hospital. His index finger was ripped off at sea working on the engine of a huge tanker…it took 36 hours to get back to port and a hospital. The pain must have been excruciating only to be overtaken by the mental anguish. I do not know how we deal with such catastrophes- granted it could have been a whole lot worse, entire hands or arms could have gone missing, but that being said it is an incredibly sad and heart wrenching affair. Life is incredibly precious and delicate. We need to live every moment to the fullest and give thanks. I am sorry for your loss El’M.
It’s all about the contour of the bottom…heehee
Wow, talk about flat. Am excited about this week’s roadtrips, one evening sesh planned for up north and at least one dawn patrol south…wish it were way way south like to Playa Negra, but that’ll have to wait a few months.
Not much out there these days (locally anyways- the roadtrips have been fun) and so I figured I’d make some waves of my own…
Don’t you wish you could fall asleep and wake up here…
A buddy called me last night reporting that he had just had one of the top five sessions of his life…an evening glass off sesh at a spot not too far from here on a day where most everyone I know (including me) had written off finding much surf in SB. Goes to show that if you’re willing to drive a little and check a few spots, you will be rewarded..here is the text he sent me “Long, fast, glassy lefts. Sets were a couple feet overhead. Arguably one of my best sessions ever. STOKED!”…good job buddy!
Just bought a ticket to Honduras, not sure that I’ll find much surf but will try…maybe I should have gone to Costa instead!
Drove south today and got in here…some fun waist2chest sets…looks like summer is all about roadtrips and distant breaks.
The size of the crowd is directly proportional to the temporal extent of the flat spell…huh? In other words, the Bu should not be this crowded except that these peelers are as good as it’s been since I left for the East Coast.
