Surfbird

I’m going going back back to Cali Cali…

“The greatest resource of the ocean is not material but the boundless spring of inspiration and well-being we gain from her” -Jacques Cousteau

Am in The Ocean State but aint no surf…

Went out to the FDR memorial but no surf was had…it’s looking a lot like the Pacific ocean these days…FLAT!

A photo from C street, DC. Posting it makes me realize how much I’d rather be shooting waves…or the pier. But I guess I should smell the flowers and count my blessings that at least I know what drives me, what I love, what I seemingly could not live without…SURF!

Rolled into DC last night for two days of work and play before rolling north to Rhode Island, and hopefully a little surf. Took this opportunity to upload some photos. Am without computer on this East Coast trip so the daily photos will be uploaded in batches. Hope some of you are getting some surf.

A picture of my brother and me at a dear friends wedding this weekend…”I love love, I love marriage, I love weddings. They’re the best” -Hank

Drove from NYSea to VA…8 hours of driving, 7 dollars worth of gas, ten playlists, one yard sale, one diner, and 5 friends in the Party Prius!

Flew into JFK tonight…already missing the surf. Does not help that we’ve been sin olas for the last week!

Went into the hills to find peace above the clouds covering the view of rush hour below the sound of birds singing to the setting sun and came down centered and ready to follow the path…but still no surf.

This winter flew right by at 99mph…Summer once seemed like a far off place, but here we are, its arrival forcing the memories of winter sessions into the past tense. It was a weirdly inconsistent winter by all accounts, yet somehow I feel like I’ve never surfed as much. Off to the east coast in a few days for weddings and graduations, and perhaps, if I’m lucky, a few east coast sessions…but until then I’ll be driving this road searching for the surf of sessions passed.

Spent the weekend in the 858/619…found some surf, had some beers, took some photos, ate some food, made some friends and smiled alllllllllllllllllllll the way home.

Drove around all morning checking every spot from here to Cardiff…almost got in at the reef but wanted a little more size so drove back south and got in at El Rancho, for some chest high close outs…punchy and fun. Might have to take some logs out tomorrow for the morning session.

Headed south today to kook it up with some warm water friends just north of the border…excited to hit up all my favorite breaks.

Starting to feel like it’s time to head south again.

One of the very first surf shots I ever took, back in 1995 in Rhode Island with my very first camera- a Pentax K1000…just recently came across these–funny how life so often comes full circle…

His story=History=Our story

Got the midnight surf session to ourselves…a little texture on the water but fun waist high rollers were consumed.

If you didn’t get in today then you didn’t try…wow, there were some good sessions to be had. The sunset sets were ridiculous.

The same Santa Ana’s that have been driving this fire have been holding up faces and turning this surprise swell into some fun sessions. Checked way too many spots today and sifting through the junk found a spot down south and jumped in…good to get wet on such a hot day, crazy to be surfing in light of all this destruction. There was so much ash falling from the sky tonight that you could have thought it was snowing. Be safe and remember to help your neighbors! (and if being kind and selfless isn’t reward enough, think of it as an investment in them not snaking you next time you’re in the water together ).

Santa Barbara’s burning! Keep those risking their lives for ours in your minds and hearts, and be thankful…

A super fun board for today…

Got in this evening at the Carp go to spot…whenever everything is nonexistent or slop (like tonight), this wave offers up little jewels of stoke. A fun session with friends and a nice floater to end the evening. Here is a shot of a break down the way that I checked before getting in. Go surf!

“It is important that we look at wrinkles as signs of wisdom and not as scars meant to be removed. We need to destroy the idea that perfection is a static thing…We need to start realizing how our world is so much richer because of time and use, and celebrate that richness, celebrate it’s mark. ” -Brendan Ravenhill

Got rincon to ourselves this afternoon for about 10 minutes of pure fun as we traded sloppy wave after sloppy wave…water was almost summer warm and the waves, well, they were all over the place. Had a great time. Here is a shot of a good friend trickin’ it out.

Jumped in at Rincon this afternoon…sloppy but good to get some waves. Supposed to get better as the week goes on. Trevor was out on his new Ryan Lovelace hull and tearing it up…man that thing gets some speed. The talk in the lineup was that Costa sounds like the place to be in June…and I might have to let my arm be twisted into going. Got out and went for a hike as the sun was setting. What a day. Ooh, yeah, had a meatloaf sandwich for lunch that was killer….uhmmm, what a day!

Went to the beach…but no surf was had…somebody asked me if I crop my photos (and the answer is no, what you see is what I shot…exactly as I composed the frame) and if not then why is this photo (and other photos) a different size, and the answer is that sometimes (rarely) I shoot with my little digi point and shoot (such as here) and the dimensions of the frame are slightly different and so the image is sized differently…word!