D.O.H. 04·23·09

Today’s dawn patrolmen were two locals and me and my brother Ruben. Complete glass, water warm as apple pie and the sets were consistently head high. My first wave was a screamer! After breakfast we packed up the rental and headed to the east cape for some size and diversity. It was empty wave after empty wave, empty point after empty point and empty cove after empty cove…you could have taken an epic-day Rincon crowd and each person would have had his or her own break. We checked out the local favorites and settled on a double overhead pointbreak. Much faster and more hollow than La Roca, it kept me on my toes…kooked out a couple good ones, and nailed another handful. I hadn’t seen size like this in a while…of course in all my excitement I did not photograph that wave–but maybe that’s how secret spots stay secret. Some fish tacos for lunch and back home for the third session. Just got out of the water and wanted to share. La vida es buena.

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