6am 03·12·09

March 12, 2009 by admin

Woke up this morning very hopeful…had rolled in last night to pounding surf and zero wind–if you’ve been to this spot you know how windy it can get. From the cliff, you could see lines to the horizon, perfectly spaced apart, a long period with about a 15 second interval…they just kept coming in, in beautiful mile-wide lines. This morning was a different story. The wind was back and the swell had backed down to chest high…Damn it, should have charged it at 1am when I took these three shots!