Know 02·11·09

February 11, 2009 by admin

It was raining as I took this shot and some of the raindrops on the lens come through in the photograph…not a rockstar shot but I wanted to post it anyways because of the thoughts going through my head as I stood on the cliff taking the photo. Ask a surfer what it is about surfing that he or she loves so much or feels so connected and drawn to and they’ll spill their heart…or not. Some of us can write you a whole dissertation on our connection to the wave, the board, the sport, the art, the lifestyle…while others may not, deciding it to be a personal matter, maybe a secret. The point is that you’ll get a million different answers from a million different surfers, and truth be told, you’d probably get a million different answers from a single surfer, depending on the day, or his previous session, or her best wave ever, or the most recent swell or flat spell. Standing on that cliff I realized that on this day I was happy to be a surfer because of the connection I feel to the ocean. I love getting up in the morning and jumping into the sea to wake up. I am especially fond of the fact that I know when high tide and low tide are every day, what phase the moon is in, and what storms are brewing out there over the vast Pacific ocean. I like the thunderous sound of macking surf heard three blocks away as you walk towards the sea, heart pounding at the thought of getting in. I love the fact that on a rainy day, when most are glad to be inside, I am standing on a cliff checking the surf.