California ·12·05·08

December 5, 2008 by admin

Its been an incredible week- seems all I’ve been doing is surfing surfing surfing.  Went down to C Street today for a surf check, surprisingly the swell was not showing, but the locals were.  Talked to some ol’timers in the parking lot for a while, the folds, wrinkles and lines of there faces etched in by decades of surf sessions tell the story of this coast, this sport, this lifestyle…they love to share and laugh and its fun to connect.  This bus was in the lot.  California Street!  Ended up surfing Rincon ’til dark.