Surfbird

We’ve spent most of our time in Haiti at the beach. Took a small boat out to a tiny island of sand for a picnic and snorkeling…Took this shot as a little peeler crashed into shore. I really like this photo for its blurs and splashes and composition and colors and it really reminds me of a photo of a Bristlecone Pine taken by one of my favorite photographers, Gallen Rowell.

A photo from a year ago, a beautifully large swell came down from Alaska and graced us with three days of glorious surf…

Was given a 1964 book titled “SURFING” as a Christmas gift, lots of cool graphics to inspire the next round of t-shirt designs…this image was titled “Pearling is Perilous”.

Not a bad place to spend Christmas with the family.

Was driving through Cap Haitian, in northern Haiti, when I saw my first Haitian surfboard shaper…There was something about the way this guy was looking at the wooden planks that just screamed “I’m going to shape some Haitian Alaias”. He grabbed the four boards as I snapped the photo and is probably in his shaping room right now, contemplating the finer points of contour, rocker and speed.

You should see some of the waves and shore breaks that these little dugout canoes can handle.

Evenings at the beach, Prestige beer in hand, watching the sun go down over Isle de la Gonave…

Took this shot on a trip through Baja. Having spent the entire trip surfing, we took advantage of a flat spell and headed to the Sea of Cortez for some fishing & exploring. Woke up early the next morning to this incredible sunrise.

A shot of a dehydrated surfer, lost in Zambia, circa mid-2007…If found, please return to the waters of southern california for immediate resuscitation.

A post surf shot of a big swell that came through this time last year, throwing sea spray high into the heavens, blending the line between ocean and sky and softening everything out of focus. Was thinking today about the ritual of gift giving and how the most important gift we can ever give has to be the gift of forgiveness, I mean its practically spelled out for us, it’s ForGiveness. These thoughts grew out of a talk I recently had with a friend who told me that she may never speak to her long estranged father, despite his many attempts to contact her…and that’s sad to me. I just traveled a quarter of the way around the globe to be with my family for the holidays and can’t imagine anywhere I’d rather be. Maybe we all have somebody we should be forgiving this holiday season…

Went for a surf check at Mesalane. The wind is on it and the swell angle still too steep. Was hoping to get wet one last time before getting on a plane to Hispaniola later today. Excited for my three week sabbatical in the Caribbean. Had a staring contest with this little white eye on my way up the 1000 Steps, it won! See ya in the tropics.

“and all the things i tried to say were never easy to explain…”

Got in the water as the sun was setting. 6 people out, three of them groms…water’s still warm and full of fish. The swell direction is way to steep and passing us right by on its way to Mexico, only the occasional waist high peeler gives any proof of its existence. Didn’t think I’d get much but wanted to celebrate the full moon as it is closer to us tonight than at any time in the last 14 years. Traded waves with the others till soon enough I was alone, the groms left first and the adults slowly followed. Watching the moon rise over the coastal range was awe inspiring, and I had my pick of every set. I surfed for quite a while, watching the moon’s reflection dance on the crest of each wave. Soon I too got out of the water, wanting to take a photo of this eternal dance. Didn’t think I’d ever surf Rincon alone, it was great.

Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don’t matter and those who matter don’t mind.
-Dr. Suess

Not a great shot but always a fun spot, look at that little peeler. A two day flat spell is the calm before the storm. Forecasts are calling for well overhead this weekend…the butterflies in my stomach are waking and the knees starting to shake with excitement…where do I go? North or South? What board do I ride? Do i pull a solo mission or invite the crew? What song will I play in the car on the way to the break to get the blood flowing? The anticipation is great and always half the fun. Had a great day today getting the peeps at REEF to partner up with REEF CHECK to do some cross-marketing reef conservation/surfer awareness stuff…To borrow from a friend, Do Good Well!

I tend to get a little itchy this time of year as the travel bugs start biting and so will soon be off to Hispaniola for three weeks. Went to Mesalane for an evening surf check. No surf to be had. Came home to a brand new Ukulele–Santa came early this year. Time to practice.

Spent another sunset in the ocean. Surfed Faria again, a little slow but seemed to build as the session went on. An in-between-sets epiphany at the importance of water in my life. Rewarded by another great sunset- almost as though Monet had spilled his palette into the glassy sea as it mirrored a sky full of swirls of every imaginable hue. Surfed ’til dark and were treated to a post surf campfire warm up session by perfect strangers…they offered beer, tea and dinner, we accepted their warm fire and friendship. Makes me want to go camping. A shot of a waterfall in Northeastern Oz.

Over 4000 troops have died in Iraq to date, and think about all the Iraqi civilians that have also lost their lives. Walked by the memorial to those troops tonight as fireworks were going off…thankful that I am not covered by the oppressive envelope of war, lucky to be free of war’s worries.

Its been an incredible week- seems all I’ve been doing is surfing surfing surfing.  Went down to C Street today for a surf check, surprisingly the swell was not showing, but the locals were.  Talked to some ol’timers in the parking lot for a while, the folds, wrinkles and lines of there faces etched in by decades of surf sessions tell the story of this coast, this sport, this lifestyle…they love to share and laugh and its fun to connect.  This bus was in the lot.  California Street!  Ended up surfing Rincon ’til dark.

Surfed Faria today, again surprised to find that the swell is holding up. This is one of the most picturesque backdrops against which to surf, the view from the lineup as the evening sun sets fire to the golden mist rolling over the coastal buttes is breathtaking. Did not have my camera, so here is a photo of Amanda.

Went down the road today to C Street. Pleasantly surprised at the head high sets rolling through. Crowded but fun. Ended up surfing for three hours. Had not expected the size and so took out the 9’3 Herbie–spent most of the session on the nose. Excited to see what I find in the morning.

Had thanksgiving in Santa Cruz…lots of pies!