Just Swell ·11·11·08

November 11, 2008 by admin

Went for a hike a few days back. The flat spell sent me to the mountains and there, to my surprise, I found surf. An oak tree had recently come down across the path and had been rounded to open up the way…I thought about counting the rings when like a Rorschach inkblot test the grain lined up just so and all I could see were the beautiful corduroy swell lines all the way to an imagined horizon. I’m sure someone else would have imagined a different scene, but all I could think of was that I would really like to be surfing that set wave, the offshore winds seem to be holding it wide open…