Surfbird

No surf today… dark, grey and windy. Drew the opposite.

What a day. Woke up early and went for the audible by deciding for a mid-morning session instead of joining the dawn patrol…back to bed. Got up at a reasonable hour and drove south past super crowded shoulder-high Rincon. I love this time of day, alone in the car, pumping some tunes and checking all the spots for the pick of the day. Settled on Hobson’s and suited up. Tide was low and the reef firing. Surfed for two hours or so and then was off to get a burrito. This is how Saturday’s should be spent. After the burrito I joined up with Kitz, a local troublemaker, and we headed to little rincon for an afternoon session…again with the audible as we stretched the afternoon session into a sunset session, getting out of the water in the dark. Thoroughly exhausted and smiling, I am ready for tomorrow’s dawn patrol.

Drove by this secret spot and had to stop and shoot. Only had my little elph camera and the resolution sucks, but the mood is right…WAVES!

Seems like everyone was out tonight…including the queen of the coast in all her majestic glory. Head high offshore perfection. Beautiful!

The view from my porch…Lots of friends out there in those hills tonight, some firefighter friends, some homeowner friends, some surf buddies…be thankful you’re at your computer and not about to lose your quiver, house, life.

Light Santa Ana winds swept in this evening to clean things up. Headed down to this secret spot for a sunset session.  I brought my water camera to shoot some sunset shots and was rewarded by both a beautiful sunset and shoulder high sets.  I always have fun here.

Went for a hike a few days back. The flat spell sent me to the mountains and there, to my surprise, I found surf. An oak tree had recently come down across the path and had been rounded to open up the way…I thought about counting the rings when like a Rorschach inkblot test the grain lined up just so and all I could see were the beautiful corduroy swell lines all the way to an imagined horizon. I’m sure someone else would have imagined a different scene, but all I could think of was that I would really like to be surfing that set wave, the offshore winds seem to be holding it wide open…

Waiting for waves while the little fish play with the little piggies…

Took this shot in Haiti. I do not usually like manipulating photos, but I was playing with the features of my new camera and those yellows deserved attention…I also do not usually like elections manipulated, but thankfully they weren’t and our man Barack WON!

It rained yesterday and the 10ft swell they were calling for came in at head high…went north to avoid some of the SB runoff, got some good ones. Tried for three sessions, but the wind came up and stopped us at two. Still stoked.