Flat spell ·10·23·08

October 23, 2008 by admin

Got back from the East Coast to a pacified ocean.Went to Rincon to get wet and plug back in. Dolphins playing, pelicans fishing, nobody out and no inside peelers…plenty of fun floating on the log and slowing way down. With a wavecount of zero, I caught my first and last ankle breaker of a wave in
and smiled all the way home…Winter’s coming.