Surfbird

You guessed it…it’s flat again, no surf but a nice pastel sunset.

“All that we are is the result of what we have thought. The mind is everything. What we think we become.” -Buddha.

Spent the weekend in San Diego…surfed 7 times in three days. Water was summer warm and clear in most spots…Surfed IB on Saturday morning, paddled right by a dead seal and a nasty ass used condom, should have turned around and headed for shore but the head high glassy faces were too mesmerizing…
Hope those Hep.ABC shots work. Here is a painting I did for Spencito.

Got back from the East Coast to a pacified ocean.Went to Rincon to get wet and plug back in. Dolphins playing, pelicans fishing, nobody out and no inside peelers…plenty of fun floating on the log and slowing way down. With a wavecount of zero, I caught my first and last ankle breaker of a wave in
and smiled all the way home…Winter’s coming.

Radical Surfing…

October 13 gives me pause time to reflect and be
a beautiful weekend in maine working the woods
as if ten again working by dad’s side the sound of a chainsaw
forever reminding me of him salty sweat mosquito spray hugs
we cut down a dead tree whose rings numbered 110 all the way to 1898
what is it’s legacy what do we all leave behind but leaves
can’t believe it’s been 11 years feels like an eternity.

We are what we think.

I saw this yesterday and had to go back to shoot it. My brother just turned me on to telephonic staple art ( yeah I just made that word up, what) and I’m fascinated. It is fun to think of telephone poles as individuals, far from static they take on the evolving identity of their street, their hood. There are hipster telephone poles in Brooklyn, moss-covered fleece wearing green telephone poles in the Pacific Northwest and of course surfer telephone poles here in Santa Barbara. I especially love how this surfer is perfectly positioned above the void…he’s literally ripping.