Surfbird

Sometimes we need the ocean to wipe the slate clean…

Surfed fun little waves today. Nice waist high peelers created for nose riding. With a big smile and at times a loud “YEAH”, i find pleasure in every ride…on most days like today I choose not to wear a leash. This affords me the freedom of a ballerina turned Matador as i cross-step to the nose and hang. Most of the time its a beautiful afternoon stroll to the tip, but not always, sometimes the board is covered in banana peels and i not only kook right off the nose, but as was the case this afternoon, lose the log to the waves…and race it all the way back to the beach as it instinctively homes in on the biggest and only rock on this stretch of coast or better yet the poor little unsuspecting kid playing in the whitewater …this image popped into my head as I swam and bodysurfed after my board.

Summer came and went
away with the fog and left
me stranded high and dry
as fall arrives and promises
better days ahead
and whispering swells…

I need to get wet but the home breaks are double-over-ankle at best and so I contemplate a drive south while dreaming of empty southern coves…

A little birdie dropped in a few days back, urging me to put in my order with Skip Frye…for those of you who don’t know that is akin to calling up Picasso or Leonardo DaVinci and asking them for a painting. The birdie works for Donna, Skip’s wife, and so has his ear…so I’m in! What should I ask for? In times like this it’s all about what you know and so I called the famed Marinero. Having grown up in SD, this boy knows his stuff and most importantly is a close friend who’s opinion is to be trusted. His advice, don’t ask Leonardo to paint you a Warhol, go for the Mona Lisa,
and with that in mind I put in my order for a 10’3″ Frye Eagle, to be delivered in 6 to 8 months…CAN’T WAIT!

Been thinking about this break all summer. Nothin but glass to the horizon and perfect little peelers reflecting the setting sun. No swell is forecasted and the lineup is empty, save for the 80lb groms that are tearing it up. You nod as you get in the water, thinking you’re gonna rip and show ‘em a thing or two. WRONG, they’re bustin airs, floaters and well, you’re not. Somehow it doesn’t matter.

The summer swells are shifting and winter’s on its way…it will soon be time for a new 4/3, but trunks still reign supreme. Just barely made it back to Cali after a summer-long East Coast sabbatical, in time for some last minute warm water swells…
excited for the inside section at Secrets, pumped for the post-surf breakfast burrito.