You know its a good day by all the smiles in the lineup!
Super clean and fun and big at 6am, but as my buddy said, you’re either a surfer or a photographer, but you can’t do both…
and he’s right, by the time the camera was out post sesh, the magic was gone! …but the smiles will last all day!
Took this way pixelated and too dark iphone shot on the way back from a fun roadtrip south to catch the dying south swell, which it turns out was not really dying, and we found some super crowded but fun walls. It’s a single exposure but has a double reflection in it…sometimes the lesson is easier to learn when we reflect on it twice.
Today is the 14 yr anniversary of my dad passing away…am stoked to spend the day with my bro and sister, in remembrance of him. Hopefully today will also include a few waves in his honor at the Con. How crazy is it that we spend so much time honoring and morning the lost, but ignore our living loved ones by our side. Why not honor the living in the same way? Tell your mom and your dad, and your brother and your sister today how much you truly love them, I am sure that it would mean a lot, and besides you may not get another chance. There were two passages that I read this morning that I would like to share with you to think about and act on…
“For whoever does the will of my Father in heaven is my brother and sister and mother.” Matthew 12:50
“This, then, is how you should pray: “‘Our Father in heaven, hallowed be your name” Matthew 6:9
may the tide
that is entering even now
the lip of our understanding
carry you out
beyond the face of fear
may you kiss
the wind then turn from it
certain that it will
love your back may you
open your eyes to water
water waving forever
and may you in your innocence
sail through this to that
Surfistas, I finally found internet and figured I should drop some 411 your way…(the photo is low fidelity on account of the slooooowwww internet upload)…sorry for not posting up for the days, I’ve been in Liberia, West Africa, working with a public health organization and all the refugees from the Ivory Coast (which is where I was born and raised). It’s been an incredible month and we’ve been working more or less around the clock…I just yesterday got to run to the beaches in search of surf…and got skunked. No surf to be had, but some tasty rocky points and large sandy coves with high potential were found and noted. Praying I get another shot at surf prior to departure in a few weeks. Hope you are all scoring perfect summer souths and living it up. Be thankful for what you have (and I don’t just mean the surf). Peace.
A sleepy little town on the morning fog covered coast wakes up to the waves slapping at its shores…the sun breaks through and lights the way as the day takes note of our adventures…as if to celebrate another great day, the sky erupts in glory and the sun and clouds paint a beautiful canvas of thanksgiving. This is the view from summerland and I didn’t even have to post process it, life and sunsets are just better when you let them go where they must…
Am back at it…I took a self-prescribed break from myself for the last two months and got lost in dreams and life and happiness and in the process found myself again. Have surfed here and there but have nothing epic to report…but isn’t that the point, that life is only as epic as you make it and these last two months have been the best, ever. Am stoked to be back and will pick up where I left off, but with new drive and outlook and peace…let’s make this summer one to remember!
Finished this diptych of my favorite Joel Parkinson aerial last night and really like it…this photo does not do the paintings justice but I wanted to share anyways. I’ll have better shots of it on my art website soon. Hope you get a shot at this swell today…am going to head north and see what I find. Blessings.
Been getting it good the last few days…but today was victory at sea…Here is a shot of a not so secret spot I surfed yesterday with about 50 other dudes-including Kelly Slater and a bunch of other pros and Channel Island guys doing product testing on some new boards…it’s always entertaining to watch those guys rip…in other news, my website has been down and out and I have not been able to post for about a week…but it is still broken but a patch is on the way and somehow I backdoored this entry so that I could post up…enjoy this soggy weekend!
Had such a fun weekend full of surf…there aren’t many other places where I feel at such peace as I feel when in the water…and I know you probably feel the same way…yet there is still one place better and it’s the place where I come to rest in faith, the place where my being is truly centered, where inner peace and outer peace are one in the same and that is where I find my Lord and Savior, Jesus Christ. Psalm 63:3 reads “Because your love is better than life, my lips will glorify you.” And so I glorify Him. Please feel free to call me up at 310-525-4227 if you want to know Him and find His peace, for Philippians 4:7 says “And the peace of God, which transcends all understanding, will guard your hearts and your minds in Christ Jesus.” I definitely do not have all the answers, in fact I actually have very few, but I am willing to talk things through and pray with you until we find what you seek. God Bless you.
Went back to this spot last night with some friends and surfed it as the moon rose over the distant mountains and perfectly lit up each face as we raced into the darkness…water was warm, the phosphorescence was killer and the rides were surprisingly long and fun. There is still a lot of size in the water and I’m getting in soon. Sea ya out there.
First of all, I hope you all had a shot at your favorite spot yesterday cause it was all time…I had the longest sweetest cleanest most tasty cover up of my life yesterday…it has been stuck on repeat in my head ever since. Along with some of the biggest waves I’ve seen at Rincon in a long while. Wow. Now, you better be calling in sick today with all the rest of southern California, cause today is going to be even better. I went to check the surf report last night and this is what I found…looks about normal, a big swell, promises of fun times today…until I realized that this swell is clearly a shaka that is blowing up all our favorite spots and slamming into LA…This image is not manipulated or enhanced, the swell literally appears to be a shaka shaped hand slamming into LA…or maybe beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Go surf!
Been fighting the gnarliest cold, but as I got up this morning for a most beautiful sunrise the light through my kitchen widow was reflecting perfectly off this awesome piece of seaglass that resides on my kitchen table…it is a perfect barreling left…and no crowd factor. Mindsurfed it as the tea steeped and figured i’d share. Be well.
A new year is here and with it a lifetime of possibilities. It is a great day to focus on your focus and make sure that this year is marked by action. The sunrise filtering through my window this morning on this first day of the year made me think of Psalm 27:1 “The LORD is my light and my salvation— whom shall I fear? The LORD is the stronghold of my life—of whom shall I be afraid?” And I must say that I have only myself to fear and invite you to join me in holding each other accountable towards a year full of righteous action…Happy New Year everyone!
Am back in town and ready for this rain to kick out and for the swells to drop in…stopped by Mollusk while in SF…stop on in if you are ever in that hood…and if you are in this hood, you better go have a looksea at Point Concept! Be well everyone. I’ll be posting some shots from last week soon.
“Do not withhold your mercy from me, LORD; may your love and faithfulness always protect me. For troubles without number surround me; my sins have overtaken me, and I cannot see. They are more than the hairs of my head, and my heart fails within me. Be pleased to save me, LORD; come quickly, LORD, to help me.” Psalm 40:11-13
Could a mariner sit idle if he heard the drowning cry? Could a doctor sit in comfort and just let his patient die? Could a fireman keep on sleeping, let men burn and give no hand? We’ve got to fight injustice, make a difference, take a stand! How do we keep on smiling in light of our neighbors pain? We see the tired and the hungry, but their plight is just in vain. We’re called not to be idle, with eternity on the line? Yet all I see are the needy and those that aren’t don’t have the time. To help the orphans and the windows or the homeless and the sick! We’re to help the weary and the scared, and the lost and the proud. Wouldn’t you, just like the mariner, help the crying soul from drowning.
You know it’s been a dry spell when you go check the surf and realize that your shred sched. has been completely empty and that you are in such need of an epic swell that you would even gladly take all these crowds…oh, withdrawal sucks…bring back my muse.
“Ask and it will be given to you; seek and you will find; knock and the door will be opened to you. For everyone who asks receives; the one who seeks finds; and to the one who knocks, the door will be opened.” Matthew 7:7-8
I am selling this Nikon 500mm lens…and you should buy it if you want some awesome surf shots. It is in great condition and I am selling it just because I don’t use it much and it deserves a loving home. I am going to post it on ebay and craigslist, but call me and it’s yours…310-525-4227 or email@example.com! Yeah!
“Do nothing out of selfish ambition or vain conceit, but in humility consider others better than yourselves. Each of you should look not only to your own interests, but also to the interests of others.” Phil.2:3-4
Up at the break of dawn for some early morning treats…but nothing (death by high tide!). Perfect opportunity to give thanks and praise for this wonderful day and wait out the tide by reading the bible on the beach…
Drove by this spot on a surf check last night and just had to get in and pick off a few of these beauties…hope you are making the most of this swell. I’m down to surf whenever, wherever and with whoever…so call me if you want to cruise. 310.525.4227. Or more importantly feel free to call me if you need prayer or want to talk about God, your faith, my faith or if you just need a friend, or advice…I’m far from wise, but I got your back!
God is Great! What a beautiful day to give thanks and praise! Got in at o’dark:30, the stars were bright, the air: clear and sweet, and the chest-high rollers were glassy and far from consistent but fun. Cold feet, warm smiles, good times. Second sesh this pm if anyone wants to cruise…
Get right! Took this photo with the burst function of my iphone camera…it takes 16 photos in a second and though the format is weird and the resolution sucks, it is still a fun little thing to play with…This kid needs to be sponsored, so help him out with your connections and I promise great great things to whoever decides he is worthy…cause he is beyond good.
Think about how hard we all try to get shacked all the time and then realize that it’s just surf and that the shackless, homeless, and folks on the street try harder than any of us for a little shackage, shelter or coverup…It rained last night, complete with thunder and lightning, and I bet that just about everyone reading this blog had a roof over their head. I say this because I need to be reminded of my priorities now and then, and figure you do to. Give thanks and praise for the things you have, but do not let them define you…give them away freely and you will be blessed. Let your compassion define you instead and help a friend get shacked!
Found a fun-filled morning a few clicks north of here last Saturday. Pulled a solo mission to meet up with some folks but did not complete that mission objective… I did, however, end up finding some unexpected old friends…for triple bonus points! The crowd filled in with the morning light and by mid-day it was packed–most people were just bobbing around like buoys and the waves were there for the taking. The wind stayed away and the glassy sets kept rolling in. Finished off the session with a burger and capped of the morning with a siesta….NICE!
This is one of my favorite passages and I think of it often…and wanted to share. “Rejoice in the Lord always. I will say it again: Rejoice! Let your gentleness be evident to all. The Lord is near. Do not be anxious about anything, but in everything, by prayer and petition, with thanksgiving, present your requests to God. And the peace of God, which transcends all understanding, will guard your hearts and your minds in Christ Jesus.
Finally, brothers, whatever is true, whatever is noble, whatever is right, whatever is pure, whatever is lovely, whatever is admirable — if anything is excellent or praiseworthy — think about such things. Whatever you have learned or received or heard from me, or seen in me — put it into practice. And the God of peace will be with you. “
Stop for a few seconds and think about where you are heading…1 mississippi, 2mississippi, 3mississippi…when you look back on your life, two, five, ten, fifty years from now, what do you want to have done, to be remembered for? Here is a Call Box, answer your calling and get going on those dreams, make life happen…
Man it was good yesterday, and again this morning and all glassy and some nice fun fast sets and crowd was chill and parking lot was full and life is good and then I got this coffee….Crazy! (sorry for the grain and focus, it was taken with the iphone, so is low-fidelity).
Drove south to meet up with my bro and found this cove with just one guy out and savory little peelers rolling in…the sun came out, the water warmed up and we were blessed with laughs, good conversation and much tip time. Yeah Lord!
Started the day with an early morning session down south smiling because it looks like it should get better as the week progresses. Yet I look back to this sunset last night and realize that we spend, I spend, too much time looking forward trying to figure out what the future holds, and in the process the todays of our life melt into the yesterdays of our story and the “now” morphs into the “then” and with it disappears another wasted opportunity to seize the day and actually walk the walk…but here I am again just talking the talk and repeating the sequence…what shall today hold?
These flat cold foggy seas have forced me to subsidize the stoke meter with adult ed classes…spanish, guitar and jewelry making. Yeah, i know jewelry making isn’t exactly a macho thing to do, but who cares and besides, you get to play around with stuff like this anvil…and what could make you feel more alive than that…Be thankful for what you have and make the most of today, for tomorrow may never get here…but if it does, I hope there are waves. Blessings to all!
Drove south last week and just kept going…ended up just north of the border with boards, bikes, sleeping bags and girl. Spent the last few days finding summer, sun, surf, sailboats, and the Lord’s sweet sweet love. Am back in the 93103 and stoked that the summer sun followed us north.
Sometimes you just need to change your point of view to change your point of view. Sometimes we see so much as to be blind to the scene and the seen, and those that are blind to so much see our unseen and un-scene. Choose to be blind to yourself and you will see others.
It’s one thing when you are surfing your local spot back home in Santa Barbara and some guy paddles out that you don’t recognize…you kind of nod and chalk it up to that-sucks-that-there-is-another-person-in-the-water-but-there-are-plenty-of-waves…but when you are in deep back-country coastal Maine and some VW van is parked in the local spot parking lot with a board strapped to the top, you can’t ignore the intrusion…never did find out who the surfer was…but fingered I’d take a ransom-shot…jk. Surf showed up this weekend. Yippeeeeeeee!
Usually a date with the queen to me means an epic session at rincon but there is another queen that graced my night last night…The Night Blooming Cereus, also known as the Queen of the Night, is a wonder to be seen. Now, I am not some flower freak, but this thing is incredible. This flower only blooms once a year, and starts opening up as the sun sets, and by midnight is fully open…only to close again by the time the sun rises. It is ghostly white and light sensitive, so you have to watch it bloom in a very dark room- in this case it is in the painting studio of a great friend of mine. In any case, the only light we could illuminate it with were very dim colored lights, thus all these amazing hues (you don’t really get the full feeling from these photos, because the photo file is so big that when I have to compress it to post in on this site, the color hues get mixed up and pixelated, as seen above…email me and I will send you the large file for your viewing enjoyment). Click here for more shots from last night. Oh yeah, the smell is intoxicating and very similar to the night blooming jasmine that we have all over socal. yum.
I am off to the land of Grain Surfboards, empty cold water breaks, lobster and hurricane swells…MAINE! But don’t you worry, there will be plenty of updates to be had. Until then, here is a shot of what I found yesterday on my surf hunt…
This infectiously sweet shot was set up and taken by the very talented and amazing Ms. KLR… I awoke to the sound of the fog horn this morning thinking of that beautiful afternoon back in Kauai, wishing I were back there. Most of Santa Barbara is covered in fog this morning, which means glassy little peelers and no crowd…meet me out there.
As I look out my window at the coming weekend I wonder: How will I make these days stand out? Will I dare to be different this weekend, or will time tick by, the dare unanswered? What is at the center of our being? My Answer: a deep love of God and doing right. Your Answer: …think about it. Whatever it is, I hope it grabs you this weekend and pushes you to be different. This could be your last weekend! I don’t mean to be morbid, but what if it were? Wouldn’t you have wanted to stand up for what you believe in, wouldn’t you want to be remembered for what you finally did on that last weekend of your life? It is said that it is easier to die for what you believe in than it is to live your entire life for it. Think about that! What are you going to choose? Make this weekend count…
Drove all over dodge to find a face, a lip, a bump or a lump…opted for photographically sliding into the future. Shot this surf’rig as it flew by a local spot- they weren’t interested in getting wet either…I like this shot ’cause it lets you decide for yourself how good that local spot looked today on the other side of the truck…could be going off!
The swell is dying and this guy is making the most of that set. What a fun week if you were able to catch that south swell…spent last night with my good friend Michael, who is without home and lives on the streets. He goes without food for days and days at a time and is all skin and bones…so sad. I’ve been bringing him a turkey (he loves turkey) sandwich almost every night for about 10 days now (some nights he does not show up), and he is looking so much better. I don’t tell you all this to boast or to get your kudos, but to say tell you this: I asked him if he wanted me to change it up and get him a burger or other type of sandwich instead of the turkey and he said, when you are starving, you are just glad you get to eat and you’ll take anything. And that got me thinking…How starving are you guys? I don’t mean hungry, i mean in life, how hungry are you for compassion, for righting wrongs, for love, for goodness, for truth, for helping the less fortunate, for faithfulness? How hungry are you to truly live. I know I am way too content. Content with the roof over my head and the way I spend my days. Content that I help people here and there and feel good about myself. Contentment…where is the hunger? I need to go on a diet from this perverse reality where I find contentment in being able to buy things, always thinking of the next board I am going to get or the surf vacation I am going on or whatever. How much fat can we cut out of our contentment to be leaner and more hungry for life. What a rant this has become, but I am serious. How hungry are you? Cause if we were truly starving to find direction, instead of this aimless to and thro thing most of us have going on, i guarantee that you we would be glad with even a morsel of simple truth…It is said that “the fruit of the Spirit is love, joy, peace, patience, kindness, goodness, faithfulness”…How hungry are you?
Life is so so precious…and so I write to all of you to let you know that famed surfboard shaper Al Merrick’s granddaughter, Daisy Merrick, is fighting for her life this morning…At 6 years old, she has been fighting cancer for the last 9 months, and though she was in remission, it is back on the attack. She needs your prayers this morning, keep her in your thoughts and just love on her from wherever you are. If you shortboard you have probably at one time or another surfed an Al Merrick shape, or ridden a board that was influenced by his designs. He is a part of your life’s story and you are part of his…It is said that it takes a village to raise a child, well you are part of His village and so I ask for you to do what you can to lift her up and help raise her out of these difficult times. Pray for her, keep her in your hearts and thoughts and, like these ladybugs, together we can have an impact. Life is so so precious.
You are stopped, at this very moment, at life’s crossroads: time to figure out how you want to live…really, truly live. The train of time is about to charge right by and it’s decision time! If you are like me, you probably think that you can put off that decision, let the train pass and cross these train tracks, since there will most likely be another set of tracks down the winding road…but what if this is it? What if today is your last day, these are your last tracks? This could be your last chance to jump onboard and charge towards eternity. I hope you’ll turn off your car and think about this for a moment longer before crossing the tracks. Seriously, stop what you are doing, look into the review mirror and decide if that is how you want to be remembered. Now look forward and live the way you know you should…stop meandering and get on that train! My grandfather once said that “We are not eternity conscious enough”…think about it.
Found a little surf these last few days, but we’ve had to travel far and wide just to find it. Ran into a friend that is separating from his wife because things just aren’t working out and I thought I would pepper this post with a little depth instead of staying in the shallows just talking about my not so epics last few sessions…”Peacemakers who sow in peace raise a harvest of righteousness.” …be the peacemaker, humility is key. It is never our fault, pride is always there to rub our back and say “don’t worry about it, you are right” or “she is this or she is that or she just doesn’t get me” and so we blame the other person or….The grass is always greener and we think the next girl is going to understand us completely, when in fact we don’t want to open up our shells to let anyone in. Be the peacemaker, meet halfway, and if needed take another step or two towards humility and away from pride. Realize that we have the power to change…the problem is you and you must be willing to fix yourself if the machinery of marriage is to work…be the peacemaker.
Been playing my new guitar…this long exposure was shot in low candlelight and weird fluorescent lighting…here are some lyrics from a song I’ve really been digging lately…”Your eyes are doves behind your veil. Your hair is as a flock of goats…”
An old guy drove by with a smile on his face, the folds of his leathery skin spoke volumes to the sacrifice he has made for this way of life…no 9 to 5 for this guy, definitely not of this world he drives the road before him, an easy smile, a board and a purpose…As I took this shot this quote came to mind: “Let your conversation be always full of grace, seasoned with salt, so that you may know how to answer everyone.”
There are a few little coverups to be found in this south swell…and this shot perfectly illustrate’s today’s quote: “I have learned to be satisfied with whatever I have”. Think on this one for a while, really chew on it…we always think that the grass is always greener on the other side of our perspective. This break is only waist-high, but I am sure that that other spot is at least headhigh. We tend to want what we don’t have, at the expense of all that we did to get to where we are. We can be so A.D.D about life. I tend to think of things in relation to my life’s perceived continuum projecting before me for another 60 years…but it could all end today, this could be my last wave. Why do we run so fast to get to the finish line, why not enjoy the ride…even if it is just waist-high.
Sorry I have been m.i.a. I walked off into the darkness to try to find the light and did not bring a camera nor a computer to update my blog…the good news, however, is that I found the light and it was from within. I’ve spent a good part of the last three weeks since my last post trying to define and refine things, call it spring cleaning, call it soul searching, call it way too many things on my plate and not enough want for the mental and spiritual clutter that a full plate brings, I have been trying to simplify. I have been trying to focus, looking for purpose…and talking to friends I find that many of them, and maybe many of you, have walked off into that same darkness, searching…
This is what is said of Truth, “you will seek me and find me when you seek me with all your heart. I will be found by you.” and in seeking with all of mine, I have found it in my faith. It pray that you are seeking with all of your heart…seriously, ALL of your heart.