Get ready to be inspired!

True Friendship 7·27·13 · Comments (18)
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home sweet home

I will take refuge in the shadow of your wings

At ease 6·5·12 · Comments (2)
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Giddy up

you are understood…

Giddyup 6·4·12 · Comments (1)
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Be playful always smile think 4yourself love others give thanks

of focus off focus 5·22·12 · Comments (0)
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loons cc

Making the most of a little wind chop…

Wind swell 5·15·12 · Comments (1)
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My head’s been in the sand, time to get it back into the living water…

Ostrich 5·13·12 · Comments (4)
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A doctor’s visit to the green room for a little nip and tuck!

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Go find what you seek 2·8·12 · Comments (0)
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 Go Go Go…Fun Fun Fun

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Brought to you by Ryan Lovelace

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Alone in blue grey flight, lost and found in dwindling light, cutting back and off again, alone into the blue grey night

Swell’ing 1·18·12 · Comments (0)
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Draw a line across the canvas and make it yours

Towards Clarity 1·17·12 · Comments (1)
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con shack

Home sweet home!

YEWWWWWWW 1·16·12 · Comments (0)
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rincon bird girl

You know its a good day by all the smiles in the lineup!
Super clean and fun and big at 6am, but as my buddy said, you’re either a surfer or a photographer, but you can’t do both…
and he’s right, by the time the camera was out post sesh, the magic was gone! …but the smiles will last all day!

Smiles for miles… 11·19·12 · Comments (0)
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You shaped boards, culture, style, and many a surfer.  We are indebted to you uncle Takayama! Continue to RIP & Godspeed!

Photo: borrowed from Glenn Sakamoto/Liquid Salt

Godspeed DT 10·23·12 · Comments (0)
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con fun

I love seeing people smile when they are surfing…it’s funny how so many of us forget that we are supposed to be having fun. Surf, smile, laugh! See you out there.

Stoke’ologist 10·22·12 · Comments (0)
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con tip time

Do what you love 10·18·12 · Comments (19)
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con top turn

Clarity 10·17·12 · Comments (3)
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Do you prefer the larger photo format?  Or do you like the smaller ones (see below). Have a great day!

Bird’s eye view 10·15·12 · Comments (4)
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“Don’t ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive and then go do that. Because what the world needs is people who have come alive.” Howard Thurman

Sunset Set 10·13·12 · Comments (0)
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“Always Do Right. This Will Gratify Some
People And Astonish The Rest.”
Mark Twain, 1901

Surf Check = small, empty, keep looking

Between two views 9·11·12 · Comments (0)
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Early morning ankle peelers are good for the soul

Solo 9·10·12 · Comments (0)
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In God we Trust!

Red White & Blue 9·6·12 · Comments (1)
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A fleeting moment

Under the lip 9·5·12 · Comments (2)
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Took this way pixelated and too dark iphone shot on the way back from a fun roadtrip south to catch the dying south swell, which it turns out was not really dying, and we found some super crowded but fun walls.  It’s a single exposure but has a double reflection in it…sometimes the lesson is easier to learn when we reflect on it twice.


No surf was had today…but here is a recent painting I did for some dear friends.
Am rebuilding my art website…check it out here

Gordo 8·24·12 · Comments (1)
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Time to get back to my roots and daily shoots, triple sessions and self reflections, a truck, a camera, quivers and wetsuits…bring on the NW swells… Seas the day!

South Swell Surprise 8·23·12 · Comments (4)
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Make the most of every opportunity…

El’Cap 2·14·12 · Comments (4)
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Venus 11•9•11 · Comments (0)
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Let’s play 11•8•11 · Comments (0)
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Grom 11•7•11 · Comments (1)
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…taken with a plastic camera.

Cold Winds 11•5•11 · Comments (1)
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gold coast storm

Storm’s a comin’ 11·4·11 · Comments (2)
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Hollywoodland 11•3•11 · Comments (0)
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con blue by

Building momentum 11·2·11 · Comments (0)
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close out bu2


Kustom 10•26•11 · Comments (2)
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Chicas y olas 10•20•11 · Comments (1)
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Epic rincon 10•18•11 · Comments (2)
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Beach day! 10·17·11 · Comments (0)
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conbigwood2Today is the 14 yr anniversary of my dad passing away…am stoked to spend the day with my bro and sister, in remembrance of him. Hopefully today will also include a few waves in his honor at the Con. How crazy is it that we spend so much time honoring and morning the lost, but ignore our living loved ones by our side. Why not honor the living in the same way? Tell your mom and your dad, and your brother and your sister today how much you truly love them, I am sure that it would mean a lot, and besides you may not get another chance. There were two passages that I read this morning that I would like to share with you to think about and act on…

“For whoever does the will of my Father in heaven is my brother and sister and mother.” Matthew 12:50


“This, then, is how you should pray: “‘Our Father in heaven, hallowed be your name” Matthew 6:9

God bless you, have an awesome day!

sunsethammysA glorious sunset last night…

yellow cali sunset surf A man is rich in proportion to the number of things which he can afford to let alone

Live simply 10·11·11 · Comments (1)
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blur topanga2

Winter Storms 10·6·11 · Comments (0)
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cali maine

The Cali Maine Man 10·4·11 · Comments (2)
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zuma greenThe season is here for roadtrips and bonfires, guitars and fellowship, campin and surfin, memories and new friends…stoked!

Octo 10·3·11 · Comments (2)
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zuma duck diveSome fun ones to be had this weekend…

Duck duck goose 9·26·11 · Comments (1)
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co line sunrise sesh 2Go get it!

Sunrise Special 9·23·11 · Comments (0)
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leadbetter square

Not much out there 9·22·11 · Comments (1)
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tiago surfRescued this little guy on venice beach…now he is the perma-surf-bud!

New surf buddies 9·21·11 · Comments (3)
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Channel islandsTake a 90degree turn from where you stand and look at where you were from where you now are and find the solution…

Perspective needed 9·20·11 · Comments (0)
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fuzzy dice

bu oldieA little fuzzy but still like it…

Maliblur 9·16·11 · Comments (0)
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bu lip hit

Prepare for landing 9·15·11 · Comments (3)
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bu red board 2

Wade in the water… 9·14·11 · Comments (2)
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bu big2

Peak-a-Bu 9·13·11 · Comments (3)
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bu buds2

Looking out… 9·12·11 · Comments (1)
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kooker2How many of you are going to be watching the Billabong Pro on your computer all day while you pretend to work…

topanga ride 2Wondering if I get a truck, van or…maybe something like this?

liberia dugout boards2Had a great day that day…

liberia fishermen 3

may the tide
that is entering even now
the lip of our understanding
carry you out
beyond the face of fear
may you kiss
the wind then turn from it
certain that it will
love your back may you
open your eyes to water
water waving forever
and may you in your innocence
sail through this to that

liberia surf check2Got to surf Robertsport while in Liberia…If you like sweet tasty lefts you now know where to find them. Apparently when it’s going off this bay fills up with lines to the horizon.

lovebirdsTiming is everything….so good to be home, stoked for the fall swells to start rolling in.

Liberia boats 1Surfistas, I finally found internet and figured I should drop some 411 your way…(the photo is low fidelity on account of the slooooowwww internet upload)…sorry for not posting up for the days, I’ve been in Liberia, West Africa, working with a public health organization and all the refugees from the Ivory Coast (which is where I was born and raised). It’s been an incredible month and we’ve been working more or less around the clock…I just yesterday got to run to the beaches in search of surf…and got skunked. No surf to be had, but some tasty rocky points and large sandy coves with high potential were found and noted. Praying I get another shot at surf prior to departure in a few weeks. Hope you are all scoring perfect summer souths and living it up. Be thankful for what you have (and I don’t just mean the surf). Peace.

Surf Liberia 7·24·11 · Comments (2)
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rincon morning light IIlife is love…

la lights ii
“Let the morning bring me word of your unfailing love, for I have put my trust in you. Show me the way I should go, for to you I entrust my life.”
Psalm 143:8

towards the heavens 6·22·11 · Comments (0)
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summerland sunset IIA sleepy little town on the morning fog covered coast wakes up to the waves slapping at its shores…the sun breaks through and lights the way as the day takes note of our adventures…as if to celebrate another great day, the sky erupts in glory and the sun and clouds paint a beautiful canvas of thanksgiving. This is the view from summerland and I didn’t even have to post process it, life and sunsets are just better when you let them go where they must…

Summerland Sunsets 6·21·11 · Comments (0)
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goodbye figMoving out, moving up, and moving on…but where do we go? Liberia, West Africa or Liberia, Costa Rica or Nica or or or….

6·13·11 · Comments (3)
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red truckWhere shall I go from here…

Where Now? 6·7·11 · Comments (0)
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rincon winter swell 2The question I ask myself is does the apple fall far from the tree?

From whence I came 6·2·11 · Comments (0)
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surf co line greenSummer is here and the souths are coming north…it would be fun to go see what we can find out on the islands…

180degrees South 5·31·11 · Comments (2)
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grannisI’ve always loved Grannis’ photo of this surfer…he is so peaceful, almost in prayer, as the world and waves explode around him …Yeah Leroy!

A Grannis prayer 5·26·11 · Comments (2)
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toilet office2A nice infusion of new research material to be perused at work…note the Lightner original print, thanks Kyle!

Office Space 5·25·11 · Comments (3)
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abyss-2Morning session at a not-so-secret lil’ spot before the wind showed up was definitely the call today…hoping to get out there again tomorrow. Here is a piece I recently completed…

Into the Abyss 5·23·11 · Comments (2)
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kawkawHave an awesome weekend…surf’s here.

Angry birds 5·20·11 · Comments (0)
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deep insideGetting deep for two seconds of glory…before the closeout!

Inside 5·19·11 · Comments (0)
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SatansakookAm back at it…I took a self-prescribed break from myself for the last two months and got lost in dreams and life and happiness and in the process found myself again. Have surfed here and there but have nothing epic to report…but isn’t that the point, that life is only as epic as you make it and these last two months have been the best, ever. Am stoked to be back and will pick up where I left off, but with new drive and outlook and peace…let’s make this summer one to remember!

Am back… 5·18·11 · Comments (6)
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Painting while I wait for the swell to come…

Doldrums 3·10·11 · Comments (4)
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Birthday surfFun morning session surprise…

Funtimes 3·9·11 · Comments (0)
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Rincon!…for sale.

Abstract Dreams 3·8·11 · Comments (92)
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Stormy waves and stormy days…no surf sessions had, hikes into the mountains in their stead. Found the burning bush.

Victory at see 3·7·11 · Comments (0)
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Fuel Creativity 3·4·11 · Comments (3)
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Finished this diptych of my favorite Joel Parkinson aerial last night and really like it…this photo does not do the paintings justice but I wanted to share anyways. I’ll have better shots of it on my art website soon. Hope you get a shot at this swell today…am going to head north and see what I find. Blessings.

Parko 3·3·11 · Comments (0)
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‘And now what are you waiting for? Get up, be baptized and wash your sins away, calling on his name.’ Acts 22:16

What do you wait for? 3·1·11 · Comments (2)
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Thank God!

Romero Canyon 2·28·11 · Comments (2)
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painting suppliesA blurry iphone snap mid-painting session…

Expressed 2·23·11 · Comments (1)
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life is better when.jpg HA…

White wash surferBeen thinking about going down to Nica…would love to hear from any of you who have gone down and want to share some stories…hit me up at

Rincon green leafs.jpgBeen getting it good the last few days…but today was victory at sea…Here is a shot of a not so secret spot I surfed yesterday with about 50 other dudes-including Kelly Slater and a bunch of other pros and Channel Island guys doing product testing on some new boards…it’s always entertaining to watch those guys rip…in other news, my website has been down and out and I have not been able to post for about a week…but it is still broken but a patch is on the way and somehow I backdoored this entry so that I could post up…enjoy this soggy weekend!

Double Trouble 2·18·11 · Comments (0)
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Pelican days 2·13·11 · Comments (0)
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Going north for the weekend to find surf and adventure. We look at the sea and breath in…lost in its expanse. Seeing God in it’s beauty, we smile, becoming who we are. See you up north.

Norte 2·11·11 · Comments (2)
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Been out on Catalina for the week and will post some shots later…Here is my birthday sunset last weekend from Summerland, CA! Life is love…remember it!

Mainland 2·10·11 · Comments (0)
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Find yourself 2·7·11 · Comments (1)
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You can’t live a perfect day without doing something for someone who will never be able to repay you…think about it.

Sponsor this girl! 2·1·11 · Comments (0)
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Lunes Vidrioso 1·31·11 · Comments (0)
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Been making no-knead-bread lately and it’s delish! Hope you got some of those waves yesterday….they were also delish! God bless!

A bun in the oven… 1·28·11 · Comments (1)
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Go now! 1·27·11 · Comments (1)
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Anhelo Su Boca, Su Voz, Su Pelo by Pablo Neruda

Anhelo su boca, su voz, su pelo. Silencioso y muerto de hambre, rondo a travs de las calles. El pan no me alimenta, amanecer me interrumpe, yo busca todo el dia para la medida lquida de sus pasos.

Tengo hambre de su risa lisa, sus manos el color de una cosecha salvaje, hambre para las piedras plidas de sus uas, yo deseo comer su piel como una almendra entera.

Deseo comer el rayo de sol que seala por medio de luces en su cuerpo encantador, la nariz soberana de su cara arrogante, yo deseo comer la cortina efmera de sus latigazos,

y establezco el paso alrededor de hambriento, oliendo el crepsculo, caza para usted, para su corazn caliente, como un puma en los barrens de Quitratue.

…see you out there.

My morning session = fun…can’t wait til my evening session.

Had such a fun weekend full of surf…there aren’t many other places where I feel at such peace as I feel when in the water…and I know you probably feel the same way…yet there is still one place better and it’s the place where I come to rest in faith, the place where my being is truly centered, where inner peace and outer peace are one in the same and that is where I find my Lord and Savior, Jesus Christ. Psalm 63:3 reads “Because your love is better than life, my lips will glorify you.” And so I glorify Him. Please feel free to call me up at 310-525-4227 if you want to know Him and find His peace, for Philippians 4:7 says “And the peace of God, which transcends all understanding, will guard your hearts and your minds in Christ Jesus.” I definitely do not have all the answers, in fact I actually have very few, but I am willing to talk things through and pray with you until we find what you seek. God Bless you.

Sonday 1·23·11 · Comments (0)
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Have an awesome friend-filled weekend!

TGIF 1·22·11 · Comments (0)
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Went back to this spot last night with some friends and surfed it as the moon rose over the distant mountains and perfectly lit up each face as we raced into the darkness…water was warm, the phosphorescence was killer and the rides were surprisingly long and fun. There is still a lot of size in the water and I’m getting in soon. Sea ya out there.

Full moon rising 1·21·11 · Comments (0)
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3 Mile Surprise 1·20·11 · Comments (5)
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Love is life 1·20·11 · Comments (1)
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With this much size and hype it is time to go to the mattresses and check out your favorite not-so-secret spots…here is a fun local nook.

Nook and crannies 1·19·11 · Comments (3)
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First of all, I hope you all had a shot at your favorite spot yesterday cause it was all time…I had the longest sweetest cleanest most tasty cover up of my life yesterday…it has been stuck on repeat in my head ever since. Along with some of the biggest waves I’ve seen at Rincon in a long while. Wow. Now, you better be calling in sick today with all the rest of southern California, cause today is going to be even better. I went to check the surf report last night and this is what I found…looks about normal, a big swell, promises of fun times today…until I realized that this swell is clearly a shaka that is blowing up all our favorite spots and slamming into LA…This image is not manipulated or enhanced, the swell literally appears to be a shaka shaped hand slamming into LA…or maybe beauty is in the eye of the beholder.  Go surf!

Big Wednesday Shaka 1·19·11 · Comments (1)
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Here is a panoramic shot that my iphone stitched together after yesterday’s evening session…an interesting new look to that old faithful point break. The swell is here…go get some!

Perspectives 1·18·11 · Comments (2)
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So so good to get back in this weekend…

Reflecting 1·17·11 · Comments (4)
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Almost done with this painting…it’s taking me a long time to finish it but I think the last of the paint will go on today…a little sneak peek for all of you.

fARTing around 1·14·11 · Comments (0)
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Doc says I can get back in the water tomorrow…so that is what I shall do. Here is a photo for an old friend.

Been fighting the gnarliest cold, but as I got up this morning for a most beautiful sunrise the light through my kitchen widow was reflecting perfectly off this awesome piece of seaglass that resides on my kitchen table…it is a perfect barreling left…and no crowd factor. Mindsurfed it as the tea steeped and figured i’d share. Be well.

Glassy 1·11·11 · Comments (1)
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Been sick as a dog the last two days…which means the surf has shown up and some of you are getting it good…while I lay in bed sneezing and coughing! YAY!

Salty Dog 1·6·11 · Comments (4)
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It’s funny the stuff you’ll take photos of when you have surf on the mind…stop reading this and go get wet. See you out there.

Eagle eyes 1·4·11 · Comments (0)
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An evening spent with the stanleys…in other news: it’s time for a surf hunt…need to bag a few sets. Happy hunting to all!

bros 1·3·11 · Comments (2)
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IPhone induced panoramic!

Rainstorming 1·2·11 · Comments (2)
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A new year is here and with it a lifetime of possibilities. It is a great day to focus on your focus and make sure that this year is marked by action. The sunrise filtering through my window this morning on this first day of the year made me think of Psalm 27:1 “The LORD is my light and my salvation— whom shall I fear? The LORD is the stronghold of my life—of whom shall I be afraid?” And I must say that I have only myself to fear and invite you to join me in holding each other accountable towards a year full of righteous action…Happy New Year everyone!

THE ONE 1·1·11 · Comments (2)
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Out with the old and…

In with the new…12·31·10 · Comments (2)
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Time is too slow for those who wait, too swift for those who fear, too long for those who grieve, too short for those who rejoice, but for those who love, time is eternity.

4ever! 12·30·10 · Comments (0)
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Am back in town and ready for this rain to kick out and for the swells to drop in…stopped by Mollusk while in SF…stop on in if you are ever in that hood…and if you are in this hood, you better go have a looksea at Point Concept! Be well everyone.  I’ll be posting some shots from last week soon.

Back at it… 12·29·10 · Comments (1)
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“Do not withhold your mercy from me, LORD; may your love and faithfulness always protect me. For troubles without number surround me; my sins have overtaken me, and I cannot see. They are more than the hairs of my head, and my heart fails within me. Be pleased to save me, LORD; come quickly, LORD, to help me.” Psalm 40:11-13

Into the light 12·28·10 · Comments (0)
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The new scool…12·26·10 · Comments (0)
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His star is rising. Merry Christmas everyone.

Happy Birthday! 12·25·10 · Comments (2)
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Mind surfing 12·24·10 · Comments (2)
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Build 12·23·10 · Comments (2)
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Genius 12·22·10 · Comments (2)
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Do art!

Figured with all that brown ocean soup out there I should add a little soap. Hope you are all staying wet out there…and dry inside.

Rain Rain Go Away 12·20·10 · Comments (0)
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words words words and words…i need to work more on action!

“Let the morning bring me word of your unfailing love, for I have put my trust in you. Show me the way I should go, for to you I entrust my life.” Psalm 143:8

Sailor’s delight 12·14·10 · Comments (1)
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Looking up to the heavens last night finding peace…

Upwards 12·13·10 · Comments (4)
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Keep pushing the limits…

For Kyle L. 12·12·10 · Comments (0)
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Man, what a week…hope you’ve found your spot in the lineup…hope you’re gotten your fill…this swell is dying quick…go!

…lines to the horizon…

Here it comes… 12·8·10 · Comments (0)
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It is way bigger than you think…and way colder too. My tootsies froze out there…

…no time for words…gotta get in!

Agua fria! 12·7·10 · Comments (3)
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Hope you all found a little time to enjoy today’s surprise westies…I did!

Westy 12·6·10 · Comments (4)
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Could a mariner sit idle if he heard the drowning cry? Could a doctor sit in comfort and just let his patient die? Could a fireman keep on sleeping, let men burn and give no hand? We’ve got to fight injustice, make a difference, take a stand! How do we keep on smiling in light of our neighbors pain? We see the tired and the hungry, but their plight is just in vain. We’re called not to be idle, with eternity on the line? Yet all I see are the needy and those that aren’t don’t have the time. To help the orphans and the windows or the homeless and the sick! We’re to help the weary and the scared, and the lost and the proud. Wouldn’t you, just like the mariner, help the crying soul from drowning.

Confirmed 12·5·10 · Comments (2)
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Headed south of the border for the weekend…hope to sea some of you there!

Mexicali 12·3·10 · Comments (1)
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“In the same way, let your light shine before others, that they may see your good deeds and glorify your Father in heaven.” Matthew 5:16

Be Radiant 12·2·10 · Comments (0)
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You know it’s been a dry spell when you go check the surf and realize that your shred sched. has been completely empty and that you are in such need of an epic swell that you would even gladly take all these crowds…oh, withdrawal sucks…bring back my muse.

A little bit to be had today…

peelers… 11·30·10 · Comments (2)
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So many thanks to give, so gifted just to live, so many friends to love, so many ways to help so many…..

THANK YOU 11·29·10 · Comments (2)
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sea fleas 11·24·10 · Comments (1)
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Spent the day in Ventucky and capped the night off with some new friends checking out The White Buffalo, and he rocked it! I can’t recommend The White Buffalo enough…seriously, give him a good listen and join me in wondering why someone with this much soul hasn’t yet blown up…man, good stuff.

Ripples 11·20·10 · Comments (0)
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“Ask and it will be given to you; seek and you will find; knock and the door will be opened to you. For everyone who asks receives; the one who seeks finds; and to the one who knocks, the door will be opened.” Matthew 7:7-8

Be true to yourself 11·19·10 · Comments (2)
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Right on!

Stickin’together 11·18·10 · Comments (1)
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Didn’t find much, but still got in and had a good time…

A little surf. 11·17·10 · Comments (0)
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I am selling this Nikon 500mm lens…and you should buy it if you want some awesome surf shots. It is in great condition and I am selling it just because I don’t use it much and it deserves a loving home. I am going to post it on ebay and craigslist, but call me and it’s yours…310-525-4227 or! Yeah!

FOR SALE 11·16·10 · Comments (2)
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Curren goes big… 11·11·10 · Comments (1)
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Sometimes you just have to run for it…

Last light 11·10·10 · Comments (4)
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“Do nothing out of selfish ambition or vain conceit, but in humility consider others better than yourselves. Each of you should look not only to your own interests, but also to the interests of others.” Phil.2:3-4

Diagonals 11·9·10 · Comments (2)
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Surfbird AFrames hat

Check out the new Surfbird hats

New Trucker Caps 11·9·10 · Comments (21)
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Moment of truth…

Claro que si 11·8·10 · Comments (0)
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Heard this yesterday and kind of liked it…”Shoot for the moon, ’cause if you fail you’ll still be among stars”.

Aim High 11·7·10 · Comments (2)
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…good deeds are obvious, and even those that are not obvious cannot remain hidden forever…

Good Deeds 11·4·10 · Comments (0)
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Found some nuggets today!

Getting Good 11·3·10 · Comments (4)
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Up at the break of dawn for some early morning treats…but nothing (death by high tide!). Perfect opportunity to give thanks and praise for this wonderful day and wait out the tide by reading the bible on the beach…

Death by High Tide 11·3·10 · Comments (0)
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Pat Curren ripping it up this evening at the corner spot…this swell was a little over-hyped, but 4hrs+ of 3-6ft+ surf & glass is all I needed to cast my vote for the Queen! FUN!

Big Wednesday? 11·2·10 · Comments (2)
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Looking back into the rear view mirror I can safely say that that was a fun October…I can only hope that November turns it up…

Behind us 11·1·10 · Comments (2)
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Here is a good trick or treat…

Trick or treat 10·31·10 · Comments (0)
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…being sure of what we hope for and certain of what we do not see…

Take a hike! 10·30·10 · Comments (3)
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Better than coffee!

Half & Half 10·29·10 · Comments (0)
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Drove by this spot on a surf check last night and just had to get in and pick off a few of these beauties…hope you are making the most of this swell. I’m down to surf whenever, wherever and with whoever…so call me if you want to cruise. 310.525.4227. Or more importantly feel free to call me if you need prayer or want to talk about God, your faith, my faith or if you just need a friend, or advice…I’m far from wise, but I got your back!

Funtastic 10·28·10 · Comments (1)
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Lots of wind and lots of surf, lots of fun and lots of sun. Get it before if goes away!

Offshore accounts 10·27·10 · Comments (1)
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God is Great! What a beautiful day to give thanks and praise! Got in at o’dark:30, the stars were bright, the air: clear and sweet, and the chest-high rollers were glassy and far from consistent but fun. Cold feet, warm smiles, good times. Second sesh this pm if anyone wants to cruise…

Checked it early this morning…but the tide was killing it…but time will do its thing, the tide will fall and the walls will rise…and surf will be had by all! Have an awesome day!

Found some waves today…and some goats. Turns out these goats can surf better than you or me, and can actually hang twenty…ok, maybe not, but they sure were cool.

Get right! Took this photo with the burst function of my iphone camera…it takes 16 photos in a second and though the format is weird and the resolution sucks, it is still a fun little thing to play with…This kid needs to be sponsored, so help him out with your connections and I promise great great things to whoever decides he is worthy…cause he is beyond good.

Rise 10·23·10 · Comments (1)
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Took three photos with my iphone and it put tem together for me…fancy! Next thing you know, the iphone will be doing my surfing for me… :)

Found waves 10·22·10 · Comments (2)
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A crazy idea…helped Spencer glue up an alaia blank the other day…fun to play with wood and glue and tablesaws and creativity…sorry for the awful photo quality!

Glueup 10·21·10 · Comments (0)
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So many tears falling from the heavens today…

blurred vision 10·20·10 · Comments (0)
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Think about how hard we all try to get shacked all the time and then realize that it’s just surf and that the shackless, homeless, and folks on the street try harder than any of us for a little shackage, shelter or coverup…It rained last night, complete with thunder and lightning, and I bet that just about everyone reading this blog had a roof over their head. I say this because I need to be reminded of my priorities now and then, and figure you do to. Give thanks and praise for the things you have, but do not let them define you…give them away freely and you will be blessed. Let your compassion define you instead and help a friend get shacked!

Howdy’camper 10·19·10 · Comments (0)
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Found a fun-filled morning a few clicks north of here last Saturday. Pulled a solo mission to meet up with some folks but did not complete that mission objective… I did, however, end up finding some unexpected old friends…for triple bonus points! The crowd filled in with the morning light and by mid-day it was packed–most people were just bobbing around like buoys and the waves were there for the taking. The wind stayed away and the glassy sets kept rolling in. Finished off the session with a burger and capped of the morning with a siesta….NICE!

Two of my favorite barns…

The Approach 10·17·10 · Comments (0)
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This has got to be one of my favorite vistas…

…is where you find it….

The wind blows wherever it pleases. You hear its sound, but you cannot tell where it comes from or where it is going. So it is with everyone born of the Spirit. -John 3:8

Dad’s Day 10·13·10 · Comments (2)
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Found a little somethin’ this morning…though I should of headed north to Jalama with some of you folks. Next time!

Morning Brewhaha 10·12·10 · Comments (0)
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Bedhead 10·11·10 · Comments (0)
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I got to hang Ten ten ten on 10/10/10…

Rainmaker 10·10·10 · Comments (1)
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Legacy 10·8·10 · Comments (5)
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Surf check 101!

Go 4th and X! 10·7·10 · Comments (0)
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Humble pie 10·4·10 · Comments (2)
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You know it’s been good when you have this many suits drying!

Surf’s up 10·2·10 · Comments (0)
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Came upon this scene while checking for some waves…

This is one of my favorite passages and I think of it often…and wanted to share. “Rejoice in the Lord always. I will say it again: Rejoice! Let your gentleness be evident to all. The Lord is near. Do not be anxious about anything, but in everything, by prayer and petition, with thanksgiving, present your requests to God. And the peace of God, which transcends all understanding, will guard your hearts and your minds in Christ Jesus.

Finally, brothers, whatever is true, whatever is noble, whatever is right, whatever is pure, whatever is lovely, whatever is admirable — if anything is excellent or praiseworthy — think about such things. Whatever you have learned or received or heard from me, or seen in me — put it into practice. And the God of peace will be with you. “

Rejoice 9·30·10 · Comments (3)
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Stop for a few seconds and think about where you are heading…1 mississippi, 2mississippi, 3mississippi…when you look back on your life, two, five, ten, fifty years from now, what do you want to have done, to be remembered for? Here is a Call Box, answer your calling and get going on those dreams, make life happen…

Man it was good yesterday, and again this morning and all glassy and some nice fun fast sets and crowd was chill and parking lot was full and life is good and then I got this coffee….Crazy! (sorry for the grain and focus, it was taken with the iphone, so is low-fidelity).

Addicted 9·28·10 · Comments (2)
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Hear hear to sunrise sessions…

Reenkon 9·27·10 · Comments (0)
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A quick iphone shot of the Santa Barbara Pier…

93101 9·26·10 · Comments (1)
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Party Wave 9·25·10 · Comments (0)
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Dwaine…Dwaine who?…Dwaine the baftub i’m dwowning! This painting gets mailed to whoever posts the best knock-knock joke in the comments section!

Drove south to meet up with my bro and found this cove with just one guy out and savory little peelers rolling in…the sun came out, the water warmed up and we were blessed with laughs, good conversation and much tip time. Yeah Lord!

Be thankful…

Leave a note 9·21·10 · Comments (1)
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Started the day with an early morning session down south smiling because it looks like it should get better as the week progresses. Yet I look back to this sunset last night and realize that we spend, I spend, too much time looking forward trying to figure out what the future holds, and in the process the todays of our life melt into the yesterdays of our story and the “now” morphs into the “then” and with it disappears another wasted opportunity to seize the day and actually walk the walk…but here I am again just talking the talk and repeating the sequence…what shall today hold?

3ft & Building 9·20·10 · Comments (4)
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These flat cold foggy seas have forced me to subsidize the stoke meter with adult ed classes…spanish, guitar and jewelry making. Yeah, i know jewelry making isn’t exactly a macho thing to do, but who cares and besides, you get to play around with stuff like this anvil…and what could make you feel more alive than that…Be thankful for what you have and make the most of today, for tomorrow may never get here…but if it does, I hope there are waves. Blessings to all!

Betterment 9·17·10 · Comments (0)
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Went south by southwest for some tip time this morning at C st. Not much bigger that waist high, but super fun. Here is a shot of me and two of my favorite people!

Ice Cold 9·16·10 · Comments (3)
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Drove south last week and just kept going…ended up just north of the border with boards, bikes, sleeping bags and girl. Spent the last few days finding summer, sun, surf, sailboats, and the Lord’s sweet sweet love. Am back in the 93103 and stoked that the summer sun followed us north.

Sailing away 9·13·10 · Comments (0)
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Looked for surf all weekend and didn’t find much…heard from the boys back in Maine that they got it all time.

Take time to figure out what you believe…

Take time 9·5·10 · Comments (2)
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Wow, we are due for a swell and some sun…and it sounds like we might get both this weekend!

Here is a shot of my pops back in the 60’s…wish he were still here.

Looking back 9·2·10 · Comments (2)
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Drove south today through the fog towards clarity but it was only temporary and now the haze is back…the sun sets and offers a glimpse at the clarity of days ahead.

Clarity 9·1·10 · Comments (0)
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The days ahead are gloriously bright, I feel like it is all possible and right, like the sets are stacking up and we just have to ride one all the way in to the cove…stoked!

Surfy surfy surfy…just got back to the SB…Stoked!

Back in the water 8·30·10 · Comments (2)
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Woweee…this was one cool sunrise. Still no surf here in Maine and only have a week to go…may the west coast swells of fall and winter start to do their thing…

The girl of my dreams arrives tonight!

Be a mirror!

Was messing around and took this self-portrait…kind of think it looks like a blackbird flying your way…

Bird 8·12·10 · Comments (0)
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Sometimes you just need to change your point of view to change your point of view. Sometimes we see so much as to be blind to the scene and the seen, and those that are blind to so much see our unseen and un-scene. Choose to be blind to yourself and you will see others.

From Above 8·11·10 · Comments (0)
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It’s one thing when you are surfing your local spot back home in Santa Barbara and some guy paddles out that you don’t recognize…you kind of nod and chalk it up to that-sucks-that-there-is-another-person-in-the-water-but-there-are-plenty-of-waves…but when you are in deep back-country coastal Maine and some VW van is parked in the local spot parking lot with a board strapped to the top, you can’t ignore the intrusion…never did find out who the surfer was…but fingered I’d take a ransom-shot…jk. Surf showed up this weekend. Yippeeeeeeee!

Intruder Alert 8·8·10 · Comments (2)
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Early morning boat ride in the fog…looking forward to getting in the water over the next two days as a mid-summer swell hits Maine. Stoked!

Usually a date with the queen to me means an epic session at rincon but there is another queen that graced my night last night…The Night Blooming Cereus, also known as the Queen of the Night, is a wonder to be seen. Now, I am not some flower freak, but this thing is incredible. This flower only blooms once a year, and starts opening up as the sun sets, and by midnight is fully open…only to close again by the time the sun rises. It is ghostly white and light sensitive, so you have to watch it bloom in a very dark room- in this case it is in the painting studio of a great friend of mine. In any case, the only light we could illuminate it with were very dim colored lights, thus all these amazing hues (you don’t really get the full feeling from these photos, because the photo file is so big that when I have to compress it to post in on this site, the color hues get mixed up and pixelated, as seen above…email me and I will send you the large file for your viewing enjoyment). Click here for more shots from last night. Oh yeah, the smell is intoxicating and very similar to the night blooming jasmine that we have all over socal. yum.

A date with the queen 8·4·10 · Comments (0)
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I am off to the land of Grain Surfboards, empty cold water breaks, lobster and hurricane swells…MAINE! But don’t you worry, there will be plenty of updates to be had. Until then, here is a shot of what I found yesterday on my surf hunt…

Eastward 8·3·10 · Comments (1)
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This infectiously sweet shot was set up and taken by the very talented and amazing Ms. KLR… I awoke to the sound of the fog horn this morning thinking of that beautiful afternoon back in Kauai, wishing I were back there. Most of Santa Barbara is covered in fog this morning, which means glassy little peelers and no crowd…meet me out there.

Confectionery 8·2·10 · Comments (0)
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Yeah, you know who you are…

Claiming it 8·1·10 · Comments (0)
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As I look out my window at the coming weekend I wonder: How will I make these days stand out? Will I dare to be different this weekend, or will time tick by, the dare unanswered? What is at the center of our being? My Answer: a deep love of God and doing right. Your Answer: …think about it. Whatever it is, I hope it grabs you this weekend and pushes you to be different. This could be your last weekend! I don’t mean to be morbid, but what if it were? Wouldn’t you have wanted to stand up for what you believe in, wouldn’t you want to be remembered for what you finally did on that last weekend of your life? It is said that it is easier to die for what you believe in than it is to live your entire life for it. Think about that! What are you going to choose? Make this weekend count…

Be Different 7·30·10 · Comments (1)
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…kept messing with that watercolor I posted back on 7·17·10…but am not sure which one I like better. It may have been a case of if-it-aint-broke-then-don’t-try-to-fix-it…which do you prefer?

2nd session 7·29·10 · Comments (8)
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Drove all over dodge to find a face, a lip, a bump or a lump…opted for photographically sliding into the future. Shot this surf’rig as it flew by a local spot- they weren’t interested in getting wet either…I like this shot ’cause it lets you decide for yourself how good that local spot looked today on the other side of the truck…could be going off!

Surfari 7·28·10 · Comments (1)
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Brush in hand, I spent some time last evening staring up at the heavens trying to replicate that immense perfection…check it out here.

What do you see? 7·27·10 · Comments (5)
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Not always sure if it’s worth getting in…but figured I’d try. It was fun.

The swell is dying and this guy is making the most of that set. What a fun week if you were able to catch that south swell…spent last night with my good friend Michael, who is without home and lives on the streets. He goes without food for days and days at a time and is all skin and bones…so sad. I’ve been bringing him a turkey (he loves turkey) sandwich almost every night for about 10 days now (some nights he does not show up), and he is looking so much better. I don’t tell you all this to boast or to get your kudos, but to say tell you this: I asked him if he wanted me to change it up and get him a burger or other type of sandwich instead of the turkey and he said, when you are starving, you are just glad you get to eat and you’ll take anything. And that got me thinking…How starving are you guys? I don’t mean hungry, i mean in life, how hungry are you for compassion, for righting wrongs, for love, for goodness, for truth, for helping the less fortunate, for faithfulness? How hungry are you to truly live. I know I am way too content. Content with the roof over my head and the way I spend my days. Content that I help people here and there and feel good about myself. Contentment…where is the hunger? I need to go on a diet from this perverse reality where I find contentment in being able to buy things, always thinking of the next board I am going to get or the surf vacation I am going on or whatever. How much fat can we cut out of our contentment to be leaner and more hungry for life. What a rant this has become, but I am serious. How hungry are you? Cause if we were truly starving to find direction, instead of this aimless to and thro thing most of us have going on, i guarantee that you we would be glad with even a morsel of simple truth…It is said that “the fruit of the Spirit is love, joy, peace, patience, kindness, goodness, faithfulness”…How hungry are you?

Red niK eB <-- 7·23·10 · Comments (2)
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Drove by this scene yesterday on the PCH…miles and miles of open ocean and emptiness being filled with some pretty sick drum beats. Talk about rocking out for God. It was a sick show!

Only on the PCH 7·22·10 · Comments (2)
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Strengthen the feeble hands, steady the knees that give way…found surf in LA today (it is much bigger than you think).

Take Two 7·21·10 · Comments (1)
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Take One 7·21·10 · Comments (1)
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mainers blur walk.jpg Defend the cause of the weak and fatherless; maintain the rights of the poor and oppressed…

Not much surf around these parts this last week…thoughts of moving to Nica on my mind, thinking sometimes we just need to see the open doors and jump right in!

Nicaragua? 7·19·10 · Comments (10)
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…a work in progress…–>7·29·10

looking 7·17·10 · Comments (1)
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Life is so so precious…and so I write to all of you to let you know that famed surfboard shaper Al Merrick’s granddaughter, Daisy Merrick, is fighting for her life this morning…At 6 years old, she has been fighting cancer for the last 9 months, and though she was in remission, it is back on the attack. She needs your prayers this morning, keep her in your thoughts and just love on her from wherever you are.  If you shortboard you have probably at one time or another surfed an Al Merrick shape, or ridden a board that was influenced by his designs.  He is a part of your life’s story and you are part of his…It is said that it takes a village to raise a child, well you are part of His village and so I ask for you to do what you can to lift her up and help raise her out of these difficult times. Pray for her, keep her in your hearts and thoughts and, like these ladybugs, together we can have an impact.   Life is so so precious.

Together 7·13·10 · Comments (3)
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train overexposed.jpgYou are stopped, at this very moment, at life’s crossroads: time to figure out how you want to live…really, truly live. The train of time is about to charge right by and it’s decision time! If you are like me, you probably think that you can put off that decision, let the train pass and cross these train tracks, since there will most likely be another set of tracks down the winding road…but what if this is it? What if today is your last day, these are your last tracks? This could be your last chance to jump onboard and charge towards eternity. I hope you’ll turn off your car and think about this for a moment longer before crossing the tracks. Seriously, stop what you are doing, look into the review mirror and decide if that is how you want to be remembered. Now look forward and live the way you know you should…stop meandering and get on that train! My grandfather once said that “We are not eternity conscious enough”…think about it.

I choo choose you! 7·12·10 · Comments (3)
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“As charcoal to embers and as wood to fire, so is a quarrelsome man for kindling strife.” This one is for sale…all proceeds to go to Orphan Network.

77 surf vw van.jpg…return to me with all your heart!

Fast 7·8·10 · Comments (0)
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old ford truck.jpgFound a little surf these last few days, but we’ve had to travel far and wide just to find it. Ran into a friend that is separating from his wife because things just aren’t working out and I thought I would pepper this post with a little depth instead of staying in the shallows just talking about my not so epics last few sessions…”Peacemakers who sow in peace raise a harvest of righteousness.” …be the peacemaker, humility is key. It is never our fault, pride is always there to rub our back and say “don’t worry about it, you are right” or “she is this or she is that or she just doesn’t get me” and so we blame the other person or….The grass is always greener and we think the next girl is going to understand us completely, when in fact we don’t want to open up our shells to let anyone in. Be the peacemaker, meet halfway, and if needed take another step or two towards humility and away from pride. Realize that we have the power to change…the problem is you and you must be willing to fix yourself if the machinery of marriage is to work…be the peacemaker.

Peace Out 7·6·10 · Comments (0)
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Been playing my new guitar…this long exposure was shot in low candlelight and weird fluorescent lighting…here are some lyrics from a song I’ve really been digging lately…”Your eyes are doves behind your veil. Your hair is as a flock of goats…”

For a song… 7·1·10 · Comments (0)
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An old guy drove by with a smile on his face, the folds of his leathery skin spoke volumes to the sacrifice he has made for this way of life…no 9 to 5 for this guy, definitely not of this world he drives the road before him, an easy smile, a board and a purpose…As I took this shot this quote came to mind: “Let your conversation be always full of grace, seasoned with salt, so that you may know how to answer everyone.”

Salt 6·30·10 · Comments (0)
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There are a few little coverups to be found in this south swell…and this shot perfectly illustrate’s today’s quote: “I have learned to be satisfied with whatever I have”. Think on this one for a while, really chew on it…we always think that the grass is always greener on the other side of our perspective. This break is only waist-high, but I am sure that that other spot is at least headhigh. We tend to want what we don’t have, at the expense of all that we did to get to where we are. We can be so A.D.D about life. I tend to think of things in relation to my life’s perceived continuum projecting before me for another 60 years…but it could all end today, this could be my last wave. Why do we run so fast to get to the finish line, why not enjoy the ride…even if it is just waist-high.

Coverup 6·29·10 · Comments (2)
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Sorry I have been m.i.a. I walked off into the darkness to try to find the light and did not bring a camera nor a computer to update my blog…the good news, however, is that I found the light and it was from within. I’ve spent a good part of the last three weeks since my last post trying to define and refine things, call it spring cleaning, call it soul searching, call it way too many things on my plate and not enough want for the mental and spiritual clutter that a full plate brings, I have been trying to simplify. I have been trying to focus, looking for purpose…and talking to friends I find that many of them, and maybe many of you, have walked off into that same darkness, searching…

This is what is said of Truth, “you will seek me and find me when you seek me with all your heart. I will be found by you.” and in seeking with all of mine, I have found it in my faith. It pray that you are seeking with all of your heart…seriously, ALL of your heart.

Re:Definition 6·28·10 · Comments (0)
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the summer doldrums have forced my surfing to the internet…where I found this totally radical video…somebody had way too much time on their hands…but I am glad they did. Good job. Enjoy!

SO SICK! 6·9·10 · Comments (2)
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We were body whomping when this floating head charged us…man, what an ugly scary hungry monster…ehwwwwww, that thing was gnarly. Luckily it attacked some spongers instead!

fun evening in the surf as memories flashed across a painted sky…

Summered 6·7·10 · Comments (3)
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