Went to surf this secret spot...and the Con'ditions were far from epic. But found some magic at the rebound spot down the road...alone and happy.
Surfbird
Went to surf this secret spot...and the Con'ditions were far from epic. But found some magic at the rebound spot down the road...alone and happy.
Kids see with their hearts, point the way with their fingers and laugh loud...here I am holding my good friend Clayton...yet I feel like I am the one being molded, finding purity, joy, youth, laughter, passion and truth through the eyes of Clay. I'm thankful.
Sometimes a smile is born and creeps across your face as you walk up to a familiar little cove and see that you are alone...the smile grows up and explodes into a million little smiles, and stoke is born.
"It may be hard for an egg to turn into a bird: it would be a jolly sight harder for it to learn to fly while remaining an egg. We are like eggs at present. And you cannot go on indefinitely being just an ordinary, decent egg. We must be hatched or go bad." -C. S. Lewis
Name that spot...i love that game...this one's a little easy...but a good warm up run...am on my way south tonight and excited to hit up some old haunts...
Waves come and go like water under the bridge...memories of adventures and friends stay stuck in the sand, shaping the next wave to wash under the bridge. Just got featured on the Daily Shaka...the newest place to surf when it's flat everywhere else. Stoked!
Think about the less fortunate this weekend...as the rain comes down a drowns away dreams...think of how nice it is to be warm and dry, how nice is that roof over your head, really think and think long about how thankful you should be to have a computer by your side to check the surf or this blog, let alone enough money to feed yourself and those you love, maybe you should buy a stranger a meal or give them a dry shirt...share your love...i will...see you out there...
Two Guys, One Camper and Nine Boards...Wish I had been part of that trip...I came upon this rig on the PCH and all I could think of as I passed by and shot this photo were the weeks and weeks of uncrowded perfect breaks, fish tacos, wailing guitars and bonfire dreams...time to head south I say!
Took this shot out of the car window, while driving down the highway on my way to cash in my surf check...
Small one person studio for rent, no pets allowed except for fish, non-traditional floorplan, long hallway with jade green walls...please apply inside.
Am off to Catalina for three days...if there is no internet I will post up when I get back...What a weekend!
As promised, here are some more Iceberg barrels (The last photograph is from a different wave sequence, but is so juicy that I thought I'd include it)...if you look at the 4th shot in the sequence there is a small dark spec right above the right side of the wave (left side if you were on the wave) which can also be seen a little bit better higher in shot 5...that's a bird with a 12-16" wingspan...when seeing these blue barrels from the ship I assumed they were about chest high...it was dificult to gauge the size not having anything for scale. It was not until I really looked at these shots that I saw the bird and thus could measure these babies at about 10ft+...Amazing. Check out the Antarctica Portfolio for more shots...
Another shot from the Antarctica files...more Antarctic surf shots to be posted mañana
zoomed way in to take this shot with my little digital camera while in Uruguay...kinda pixelated but nice...
Am back in town...and drowning in over 3000 photos taken since I left. It'll take me some time to sift through the pile so I figured I'd post an appetizer. Surf is still here and I am excited to get back in. It has been too long.
Sorry for not giving you a heads up...was in Haiti for Christmas and 5 days after getting back to SB, the quake hit and well, it's been horrific. It is just so so sad, words just simply are to feeble to describe the loss. My mom has been put in charge of US medical relief in Haiti and is swamped with logistical nightmares and short supplies of just about everything...I am in Argentina, having just returned from a ten day cruise to Antarctica, where I found this wave. At about 3-4feet overhead, in the middle of the ocean, breaking off an iceberg (many more photos to come, and yes, those are the real colors, it has not been color corrected or tweaked in any way, that is what it looked like...surreal) it had certainly never been ridden, and unfortunately probably never will be (I did not have my surf gear on the cruise). Exciting to think how many more of these are out there. Am in Argentina and Uruguay for the next few days and will upload more photos than you can handle when I am back stateside. What a crazy year this has been. Pray for healing in Haiti.
Man the ocean was delicious this weekend...so many treats to be had, and I am still hungry...luckily this watery buffet of set waves is sticking around for the week. Getting back in soon.
Will be out of internet touch until the January 7th...so no updates until then. Happy New Year, it's going to be a great one.
Am far far away in the Caribbean and while it is very nice and warm and perfectly tropical, I have missed yet another epic swell...I've been posting shots from the swell we got right before I took off about a week ago, and post this shot as a toast to all of you who got it good yesterday and the day before...Good'on ya, the reports I got were that it was all time.
When it's on, it''s on...
Doesn't anybody work anymore? So so fun...
It just keeps going and going and going...
Flew out to Haiti last night and am here for two weeks...will look for surf, but tis' not the season for Caribbean surf. So will be posting random images and old shots from recent swells...Here is a shot from last week, really had a lot of fun that day surfing this spot.
I've been courting the Queen these last few days, and she has definitely returned the love with some incredible sessions...here is a shot I took pre-session yesterday during the low tide...I like this shot for a lot of reasons, one of them being the guy boosting the pelican-like-air...see the incredibly pixelated shot below.
A man named Freedom passed away a few days back. A war veteran and friend to all, he lived on the streets and was a ray of light. My girl and I met him two nights before he passed, and in that short time really came to consider him a friend. It has been cold, wet and nasty here these last few days, and the elements got the best of him. We are blessed with food, clothes, warmth, friends and family...not to mention being free to surf at will. So be grateful for what you have and please consider sharing your resources, friendship and love with those in need. What would you give for your Freedom?
Today's session came in under the radar and the crowds missed it...super low tide but smiles all around.
He made this bottom turn and charged into a closeout barrel...gnarlz.
Drop, carve, pick a line, hit the lip, tuck in, cover up and closed out 12·10·09 · Comments (0)
Scroll down for more.
Scroll down for more.
Found some fun steep ones this morning near County Line, it was glassier up north closer to home, where I took this shot but I opted for size...and I found it. I took the photo through the window of my truck, while parked on the shoulder of the 101...i kind of like how the door frames the right side of the shot...a total accident, but cool.
The swell is definitely here, found a nice somewhat uncrowded spot this morning, excited for the pm session. Took this shot as I was driving south...
Rain rain go away, come back another day, it you don't, we don't care, we'll go surf...if we dare? Man the water is chocolate mud pie soup, and still every lineup was full this morning on the gold coast.
Got a little surf yesterday and got a little cold this morning...but it was worth it. On a different note I am loving the new look at wablog!
The swell is fading and the mid-week doldrums eminent...luckily there is a whole lot of pie in our future.
The sweet afterglow of a delicious day wafts over the horizon, delicately dancing a slow waltz across the drifting lines of swelldom, not a sound is heard beyond the sleepy shorebreak and twinkling stars. We are safe and sound, basking in the warmth of a purposeful day spent in the pursuit of truth. Surf and epiphanies were had and horizons expanded, as time slowly turns the afterglow dimmer switch to night.
Found some more surf last night at this spot...the swell was barely showing then and there were some sweet rides to be had...but it's fully on right now, so am out of here to get some more.
Am back from a crazy trip to the East Coast...no waves were found, but plenty of adventures. So good to be back in California, excited to make things happen, super stoked on the possibilities...
Sometimes there's no surf...always plenty of birds...which admittedly are pretty boring...but...so is no surf...so here is a bird.
No surf means being able to scan old and not-so-old photos...and then realizing you spend way too much time updating your blog and should instead be driving to Mexico where there is undoubtedly big uncrowded surf.
The world sure seemed flat today, not a ripple on the ocean. Here is a shot that I took through the sideview mirror of the Tacoma while on a surfcheck...I took it while driving and kinda just shot from the "hip", the focus is a little off but so am I. Hope to see more surf in that mirror soon.
Not much surf to be found this morning but might jump in with a log and ride some ankle breakers...here is a shot from last Tuesday.
The swell went away as fast as it showed up...but even in these dire times this guy manages to keep a roof over his head...good job man, wave of the day in a day without waves.
Wow the ocean was big and angry today...went to this spot and got it good with just one other guy out. It was way bigger than I expected and the offshore winds were keeping the faces open just long enough to entice us in, and though I got a handful of crazy fast rides, I mostly got worked...feeling humbled I got out after only an hour and took some shots as the afterwork crowd filled in. This one doesn't really show the size, but I like the idea.
PARTY WAVE...it's sessions like this that make you want to leave home in search of more secluded breaks. Alejandros sounds real good right now...as does just about any spot closer to the equator.
The Niño has arrived and is bringing it! The swell is building again and it is time to head back to the water, the waves, the Con.
I can get lost for hours looking at this wave...and somehow completely find myself at the same time.
Found surf today and man was it good to get wet...surfed all evening 'til way past dark....here is a shot from the surf check prior to getting in.
This surf session brought to you by the wonderful people at Rainbow Sandals...making sure that every wave we catch feels as smooth as a well-worn pair of your favorite sandals.
Really itchin' to go go go...been looking at tickets to Panama and thinking I might need to go soon...this photo, though blurry, says it all.
Did not surf today, did not take any photos today...did not watch TV either. Found this shot from my trip to Honduras last June, thought I'd share. Sharing is caring. Wouldn't mind changing the channel to something with a little more surf...
Went to check the surf and everyone else was doing the same...drive, stop, check, frown, drive again...repeat! But at least these guys were doing it in style.
Checked all sorts of spots today and didn't find much...ended up surfing this 10'2" Takayama Model T down south...which was perfect cause it doesn't need much of a wave to get it going...fun wind-slop, but fun nonetheless.
Found a little something today...There was some nice size (chest-to-head-high) down south in Ventura for the morning session, but with the size came the thickest crowd I've seen there in a long long time...opted for the Queen on rounds two and three...much better crowd setup, but small. Here's a a shot that kind of sums up the day...making something out of nothing!
No surf today...but lots of SUP's looking like they were street sweeping their way to the horizon...
The Surfbird Store is finally up...it's an evolving project and will be updated as new art projects come to life.
The swell showed up last thursday and lasted through most of the weekend...spent most of those sessions at this break and a few down south in Ventura. The fog lasted all weekend and made for some incredible shots...but every time I framed a cool photo in my mind, I was in the water getting some waves--the camera safely tucked away in the car...and so you are left with these not so interesting shots...really wish there had been a cool something or other for the foreground of this shot...but I still kind of like the gradient.
A beautiful afternoon and glassy chest high sets made for a fun session today at the Queen. The water was apple pie warm. Playing with the exposure on this shot in an attempt to give you a taste of that apple pie...
Got home and got wet...sent the "waterproof" digi to Canon for a fix, got the real camera out and am ready for a fun new season of surf, laughs, and smiles...enjoy!
A long long hike down an empty coast to this gem of a spot...got a little water in the 'Waterproof" camera and am pretty upset, but I guess it makes for an interesting blurring effect....that being said, the camera is out of commission and so you are stuck with this photograph until my return to Cali...
Out of focus, I know...but that is what vacations in Hawaii are about...loose your focus and gain freedom.
Sometimes I imagine these as dandelions blowing in the wind...but there was no wind blowing and so the seeds of change remain in want, and the little kid inside me keeps wanting to kick them into the air, wanting to see those seeds do their thing.
Yeah surf, surf, surf and glass glass glass, not the blue glass-kind, but the no-wind-glass-kind...fun to be in the water and excited for the little bump we are getting this weekend.
It's taken me a few days to get back into things here, but am now really back and ready for some adventures...
These images were inspired by one of my favorite photographers of all time...Gallen Rowell. It's good to be back in Cali and nice that there are some waves.
A little south swell in the water for my return to Cali...and a hot new Patagonia wetsuit for the coming winter season...stoked to take it slow and enjoy the El Niño ride.
You can't really tell from this photo but that wave is about headhigh...
Had to escape the island today to find non-suicidal surf...waves were coming in at way way overhead and very non-makeable (not that that is really a word)...Checked a number of spots and they were all in the 10-12ft faces category, scary and very hollow.. we chose a headhigh+ spot that was fun fun fun...
Hurricane Bill just showed up and we're off...loaded the lobster boat and headed to Shipwrecks for some fun shoulderhigh cold angry monsters...waves out here seem a little more angry than our waves back home...still had a ball!
Went to the beach tonight for sunset and got the waterproof digi in some great 4inch thick ankle breaker barrels...here is the view from within.
First off I want to say that I've been hiding on an island off the coast of Maine all summer with very limited internet connectivity and as such have not been updating this site daily...but have been trying to retroactively get shots up whenever possible. I'll be back in SB next week and all will be back to order, yeah! The moon is doing her thing and the tides are crazy high. The swell is building, you can feel it rumbling over the horizon, and though the ocean is crazy flat and there is not a speck of wind it is definitely the calm before the all-too-real-storm...Hurricane Bill is scheduled to push some surf up this way right in time for a proper send off. They're calling for 4-6ft swell @ 16seconds for saturday morning...which around these parts means a solid headhigh...building to 6-8ft by evening...we'll probably surf the secret spots around here and then hit the road early sunday heading north towards Canada as the swell builds to 14-18ft...which would blow out the local spots and will make a few northern outer reefs come to life...and so I end this post with a quote by Margo in one of my favorite surf flicks..."I'm just frothing mate, I'm that excited, I've got butterflies and all those funny twitches in my stomach"!
So excited to trade in this Birch tree for SoCal's palms, these flat Maine waters for a Pacified ocean, fun times for fun times....but first I have a date with Hurricane Bill.
There is surf heading this way...and I can just about see it coming over the horizon. Hurricane Bill is coming!
The boat is complete...will have more shots soon. Excited to be back to SB in a week...bring on the Pacific Ocean.
My brother and now new sister just got married today...well technically they eloped, then got in a boat we build four years ago and sailed away...but not before we were able to attach some cans to the transom and stick a just married sign on the boat in proper wedding fashion...Congratulations you pirates! Photo taken by Spencito Kawamoto....what's a pirate's favorite letter?....P, its like an RRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR but it's missing a leg.
Yeah yeah, I am really happy with this shape, needs a little oil and she'll be ready to go...assuming we ever get some real surf around here :) I'll post more photos of bottom contours and can email shots of other details if ya want...Dimensions: 6'6" X 15"&7/8 X 3/4"
Got so many surf reports and epic-session-stories these last few days I figured I should just fly home and get ready for miracle summer swell #2...but then I remembered the all-time-offshore-and-glassy-head-high-plus-swells that Maine is so well known for and figured I'd wait it out here...in the fog.
Here we go...glued up a blank and started hand planing my first Alaia...will have shots of the finished product very soon...so fun!
Had my fingers crossed that some of that west coast miracle swell would sneak over to the east coast...this is all I found, knee high shore break...Man I'm blowing it, should be in SB right now...
Started making an Alaia today...will post photos of the process sometime soon. Supposed to be a little bump making its way towards Maine this weekend and I've decided that some wake surfing might have to happen if the swell is a noshow.
The epic surf never made it here today, the storm weakened and ankle breakers were about the best thing around and so with that I post a photo taken almost exactly a month ago on a nice day in LA Co. (by the way, he makes the section and glides down the line for quite a nice long ride).
Calling for surf in the morning, water's warmed up to a balmy 50 Degrees Fahrenheit...can't wait to duck dive.
Life on an island has a tendency to slow way down yet somehow days fly by...checked the surf three times today, it's definitely building and we might actually get in early this week and in turn you might get to see secret spot #32 going off somewhere off the coast of Maine...come on olas!
We just finished the first week of boatbuilding...and this is what she looks like. What a joy it is to work with wood, with your hands, with kids, with family--so fun! Have big plans to shape another surfboard and a few Alaias this summer...maybe I'll start this weekend. No surf here in Maine, so I hope one of you out there is getting some for me...thanks.
Island time means dial-up internet...but no rush-hour commute...Here is a shot of a Beach Rose on a foggy day.
Am off to Maine today for 6 weeks. I run a boat building camp there (for kids ages 7-18) during the summer and am stoked to go. Check out the website www.islesfordboatworks.org, it's a great program and great fun, though I have to rebuild the site...we have not updated it in a while and it needs some TLC. In any case the camp is on an island off the coast and sure enough there is surf (very good and uncrowded surf)...but unfortunately it is certainly not as consistent as Cali and so I will take this opportunity to delve into various photo projects and may stray from surf-only content ( i hope you'll forgive me:)...So with that... see you in Maine.
This wave was right around the corner from our hostel...(for scale look for the guy about to drop in on the right shoulder).
Found an exact Central American replica of Rincon on this last trip...the cobbled point, the long rides, even the way the trees hug the beach were the same...less of course the crazy crowd. Here is a shot of a local grom checking it...
Wow what a crazy trip to Central America...we planned on a two week trip to Honduras and ended up having to make our way out of the country about a week in after a coup shut down all the roads and airports and things got messy...after quite a bit of maneuvering we found ourselves in El Salvador for the best swell they've had all year. We posted up at a chill little hostel and surfed the building swell...Just got back last night and already thinking of my next trip south to those magical breaks...definitely going back soon.
I really liked this study of negative and positive space and would challenge you to think about which one is more powerful in your life.
Ain't summer Gr8? Packing my bags as we speak and flying south tonight to Honduras...stoked. There's no internet where I am going and so I am given an opportunity to rethink how I do things...I started this site as a metaphorical branding iron--red hot, ready to poke me into action--so that I'd be motivated to shoot everyday. Well, if you have ever tried to do this, it is quite difficult but a fun exercise in discipline. I try, try, try to shoot everyday, and almost all of these shots are posted the same day that they were taken, but sometimes I don't shoot, or maybe I have way too many fun or good shots I want to share from previous days, and then they take precedent and get posted...I guess it has turned into an exercise in complete objectivity and randomness...all of which luckily revolves around my surfing obsession. So anyways, today I fly south and have pre-posted an assortment of shots from past shoots to keep you entertained until my return...enjoy
Wow did I get some epic sessions full of lefts in LA these last couple days...yes, I surf goofy and this south swell is exactly what the doctor ordered to cure my summertime SB no-surf blues...Here is a shot from a cliff south of Co. Line, definitely one of those semi-secret spots with zero crowd and all sorts of surf.
I come down to LA about once a week to work with a client whose office is right on the beach...surfed Topanga this sunrise and had a blast...here is a pretty mediocre shot of the view from my office. I can see Sunset and Topanga from here and they're going off with the changing tide. Go get it!
Made it to LA Co. today and hit up some great spots...had a 4hr. long evening sesh. full of lefts, lefts, lefts. This photo doesn't do the session justice. It was consistently shoulder to headhigh (with a few overhead sets) and the kelp was glassing it off...so fun!
Lowers was going off today (as reported by a little birdie) and SB was just not...Did not get in today and starting to get a little dehydrated. Am off to LA county for two days in the morning for some hydration therapy and salt baths...see you there.
What a fun weekend...found waves everyday and even had a couple double sessions...went camping, did yoga, swam in a very warm Pacific, met new peeps, enjoyed old ones, ate some tasty food and smiled smiled smiled.
Had some great waves here yesterday, and the swell is supposed to stick around through the week...on my way out the door to find some more.
YEAH, just got out of session number two...waist high glassy, maybe even as big as bellybutton high, really long rides all the way to the cove. Yeah! Got a new waterproof/shockproof/stoke-giving/ugly-looking/but-great-photo-taking digital camera yesterday and put it through it's paces today...And just as advertised I am stoked. Everyone looking for a waterproof/shockproof/stoke-giving/ugly-looking/but-great-photo-taking digital camera should get the new Canon PowerShot D10! Enjoy your weekend!
Optimism is waking up to waist high sets and thinking, or knowing that you'll find head high surf further down the road...on a day when they weren't even calling for anything past knee high.
I really like this shot of El'Marinero. It was shot in maine on a cold winter night, it's about to snow and the raging Nor'Easter is bringing in some serious swell...its taken at the beach while checking the surf. I am posting this shot because El'M. just got back from sea today with only 9 fingers...that is pretty heavy stuff and its been weighing on my mind and heart since the phone call from the hospital. His index finger was ripped off at sea working on the engine of a huge tanker...it took 36 hours to get back to port and a hospital. The pain must have been excruciating only to be overtaken by the mental anguish. I do not know how we deal with such catastrophes- granted it could have been a whole lot worse, entire hands or arms could have gone missing, but that being said it is an incredibly sad and heart wrenching affair. Life is incredibly precious and delicate. We need to live every moment to the fullest and give thanks. I am sorry for your loss El'M.
Wow, talk about flat. Am excited about this week's roadtrips, one evening sesh planned for up north and at least one dawn patrol south...wish it were way way south like to Playa Negra, but that'll have to wait a few months.
Not much out there these days (locally anyways- the roadtrips have been fun) and so I figured I'd make some waves of my own...
A buddy called me last night reporting that he had just had one of the top five sessions of his life...an evening glass off sesh at a spot not too far from here on a day where most everyone I know (including me) had written off finding much surf in SB. Goes to show that if you're willing to drive a little and check a few spots, you will be rewarded..here is the text he sent me "Long, fast, glassy lefts. Sets were a couple feet overhead. Arguably one of my best sessions ever. STOKED!"...good job buddy!
Just bought a ticket to Honduras, not sure that I'll find much surf but will try...maybe I should have gone to Costa instead!
Drove south today and got in here...some fun waist2chest sets...looks like summer is all about roadtrips and distant breaks.
The size of the crowd is directly proportional to the temporal extent of the flat spell...huh? In other words, the Bu should not be this crowded except that these peelers are as good as it's been since I left for the East Coast.
"The greatest resource of the ocean is not material but the boundless spring of inspiration and well-being we gain from her" -Jacques Cousteau
Went out to the FDR memorial but no surf was had...it's looking a lot like the Pacific ocean these days...FLAT!
A photo from C street, DC. Posting it makes me realize how much I'd rather be shooting waves...or the pier. But I guess I should smell the flowers and count my blessings that at least I know what drives me, what I love, what I seemingly could not live without...SURF!
Rolled into DC last night for two days of work and play before rolling north to Rhode Island, and hopefully a little surf. Took this opportunity to upload some photos. Am without computer on this East Coast trip so the daily photos will be uploaded in batches. Hope some of you are getting some surf.
A picture of my brother and me at a dear friends wedding this weekend..."I love love, I love marriage, I love weddings. They're the best" -Hank
Drove from NYSea to VA...8 hours of driving, 7 dollars worth of gas, ten playlists, one yard sale, one diner, and 5 friends in the Party Prius!
Flew into JFK tonight...already missing the surf. Does not help that we've been sin olas for the last week!
Went into the hills to find peace above the clouds covering the view of rush hour below the sound of birds singing to the setting sun and came down centered and ready to follow the path...but still no surf.
This winter flew right by at 99mph...Summer once seemed like a far off place, but here we are, its arrival forcing the memories of winter sessions into the past tense. It was a weirdly inconsistent winter by all accounts, yet somehow I feel like I've never surfed as much. Off to the east coast in a few days for weddings and graduations, and perhaps, if I'm lucky, a few east coast sessions...but until then I'll be driving this road searching for the surf of sessions passed.
Spent the weekend in the 858/619...found some surf, had some beers, took some photos, ate some food, made some friends and smiled alllllllllllllllllllll the way home.
Drove around all morning checking every spot from here to Cardiff...almost got in at the reef but wanted a little more size so drove back south and got in at El Rancho, for some chest high close outs...punchy and fun. Might have to take some logs out tomorrow for the morning session.
Headed south today to kook it up with some warm water friends just north of the border...excited to hit up all my favorite breaks.
One of the very first surf shots I ever took, back in 1995 in Rhode Island with my very first camera- a Pentax K1000...just recently came across these--funny how life so often comes full circle...
Got the midnight surf session to ourselves...a little texture on the water but fun waist high rollers were consumed.
If you didn't get in today then you didn't try...wow, there were some good sessions to be had. The sunset sets were ridiculous.
The same Santa Ana's that have been driving this fire have been holding up faces and turning this surprise swell into some fun sessions. Checked way too many spots today and sifting through the junk found a spot down south and jumped in...good to get wet on such a hot day, crazy to be surfing in light of all this destruction. There was so much ash falling from the sky tonight that you could have thought it was snowing. Be safe and remember to help your neighbors! (and if being kind and selfless isn't reward enough, think of it as an investment in them not snaking you next time you're in the water together ).
Santa Barbara's burning! Keep those risking their lives for ours in your minds and hearts, and be thankful...
Got in this evening at the Carp go to spot...whenever everything is nonexistent or slop (like tonight), this wave offers up little jewels of stoke. A fun session with friends and a nice floater to end the evening. Here is a shot of a break down the way that I checked before getting in. Go surf!
"It is important that we look at wrinkles as signs of wisdom and not as scars meant to be removed. We need to destroy the idea that perfection is a static thing...We need to start realizing how our world is so much richer because of time and use, and celebrate that richness, celebrate it’s mark. " -Brendan Ravenhill
Got rincon to ourselves this afternoon for about 10 minutes of pure fun as we traded sloppy wave after sloppy wave...water was almost summer warm and the waves, well, they were all over the place. Had a great time. Here is a shot of a good friend trickin' it out.
Jumped in at Rincon this afternoon...sloppy but good to get some waves. Supposed to get better as the week goes on. Trevor was out on his new Ryan Lovelace hull and tearing it up...man that thing gets some speed. The talk in the lineup was that Costa sounds like the place to be in June...and I might have to let my arm be twisted into going. Got out and went for a hike as the sun was setting. What a day. Ooh, yeah, had a meatloaf sandwich for lunch that was killer....uhmmm, what a day!
Went to the beach...but no surf was had...somebody asked me if I crop my photos (and the answer is no, what you see is what I shot...exactly as I composed the frame) and if not then why is this photo (and other photos) a different size, and the answer is that sometimes (rarely) I shoot with my little digi point and shoot (such as here) and the dimensions of the frame are slightly different and so the image is sized differently...word!
I've always thought that Ralph Waldo Emerson nailed it when he said that "The Earth laughs in flowers"...and along the same lines perhaps the sea smiles in waves.
Have made the most of this flat spell and finished my taxes, sold my truck, completed my first album, climbed Mt. Everest, worked on my ninja tricks, decided that I want to be a firetruck when I grow up...or more likely have done nothing but check the surf everyday for the last week and not gotten in...here's another attempt at trying to find surf, this time as found in the power lines down the street.
Checked it this morning and nada...checked it this evening and even less. Was still going to get in for a paddle and the wind turned me away. Here is a shot from a break down the road, taken en route to LAX to fly to Mex last week. How I wish those waves were still around...I would so be stoked!
So after a week of crazy surf (12 sessions in 4 days) I have returned to SB and somehow not surfed the last two days...am excited to bring that loosing streak to a close with tomorrow's dawn patrol. On a side note, I think a friend may have just convinced me that there is absolutely zero reason why I shouldn't move to southern France and live and work and surf in Bearritz. I'm a dual citizen (US and British) and thus can work in the EU without much hassle, and am fluent in french (it was my first language)...so I got a tattoo today to remind me that I just need to get up and go...well, ok, it's not a real tattoo, just sharpie, and I most likely am not moving to southern france, though it would be dope, but it's a possibility and possibilities make the world a more interesting place.
Didn't find much surf today, spent some time checking the spots and rockin'out to Modest Mouse but didn't get in. Somehow I didn't mind too much as I'm still riding the Cabo stoke. Here is a shot of La Roca after I got out yesterday to get on a plane. Such a fun wave, and the left is just as good.
Am back in cali, and with a little luck will get to surf this south swell all over again. Looking forward to hitting some of the local spots these next few days. Sad to think of putting on a wetsuit...anybody wanna go to Cabo next week?
The rising sun cast its rays on the biggest day yet. Paddled out to La Roca, got two fast rights and then moved to the left for the rest of the session. Got some crazy drops and carved them up all the way to the inside rock...paddled over to the left at old man's as the crowd filled in at the rock and got my best rides of the trip. Bigger sets coming in a 3-4ft overhead and fast but super makeable. The lefts were walling right up and I smiled all the way down the line, hitting the lip a couple times. Am so amped right now despite the battle wound on my heel (see below).
Today's dawn patrolmen were two locals and me and my brother Ruben. Complete glass, water warm as apple pie and the sets were consistently head high. My first wave was a screamer! After breakfast we packed up the rental and headed to the east cape for some size and diversity. It was empty wave after empty wave, empty point after empty point and empty cove after empty cove...you could have taken an epic-day Rincon crowd and each person would have had his or her own break. We checked out the local favorites and settled on a double overhead pointbreak. Much faster and more hollow than La Roca, it kept me on my toes...kooked out a couple good ones, and nailed another handful. I hadn't seen size like this in a while...of course in all my excitement I did not photograph that wave--but maybe that's how secret spots stay secret. Some fish tacos for lunch and back home for the third session. Just got out of the water and wanted to share. La vida es buena.
A good friend asked me about my day...dawn patrol.. jaccuzi.. breakfast... hammock.. session 2...pool/yoga...water, whole lot of water...snack...shade tree...lunch... session 3...water/sunscreen break...evening session (#4)...pool/jacuzzi...fish dinner...lots of margaritas...exploration...squidrow...sleep....repeat. I might never leave this place!
You'll have to pardon my lackluster photo...been surfing all day and barely got off a shot. Here is La Roca as seen from my balcony between session 3 and 4. I have noodle arms and my head is congested with stoke. So good today, bigger sets were well overhead and it's supposed to be bigger tomorrow. Psyched for the dawn patrol.
A beautiful sunrise this morning. It's 7:30am and I've already had my morning sesh. Got in at 6 right after I took this shot and got some good ones. The swell has built overnight and is consistently shoulder high and supposed to build with the falling tide. yeeyeah!
Cabo is grand. Rolled up midday, jumped into the rental and made our way to this little magical spot. Settled in, met all the locals in the lineup, trunked it into the evening and got some great rides. Only about waist to chest today, but supposed to build to overhead by Thursday. Stoked!
Drove right by potentially epic rincon this morning on my way to LA...and if you want a taste of what I (and most of you) missed read Kyle's post for today...darn it, sometimes work just plain gets in the way of fun. Here is a shot from an LA spot I checked out after a day full of meetings. Definitely not the size, glassiness or speed that I saw at the con, and seeing as that I am flying to Cabo in the morning for a week of stokage, I didn't even get in. See if you can make your eyes turn this photo inside out, whereby the dark bars turn into the background and the surf,sand,sky turn into bars...huh? Good job Kyle.
No surf today but a nice hike...am all packed up and ready to finally fly south to warm empty headhigh lineups. Come on buena suerte!
Found three friends, piled them into my truck and went surf hunting at high noon...not much to be found but did bag a few choice sets at a local rivermouth south of here. A beautiful hot sunny day made it clear that summer is right around the corner and with it maybe some fun sessions at the summertime breaks. Checked mesalane for sunset. It was tiny but a couple groms were ripping it up. 1.5 days til' Cabo! Who's excited?
"You might feel like a lone individual in the world, but may be the world to a lone individual" -Andrew Garcia
Surfed down in LA today with a dear friend. He hasn't surfed in a while but is more stoked than most. Bought my ticket to Cabo for next week and getting really excited about surfing warm water. Crossing my fingers for swell.
Went back to this spot this morning before the wind hit it. A consistent shoulder to headhigh with a few juicy overhead sets...super fast fun rides. Not sure how many different ways you can photograph a certain break, but here is another entry in the Lil'Con series.
So as surfers we tend to exaggerate a little when it comes to our favorite pastime. We stretch the truth when recounting that one epic day we had no too long ago, or maybe in estimating the size of the surf when giving a buddy the surf report (in hopes of enticing them to the water). We are plagued by white lies and half-truths...and so with that disclaimer I would like to temporarily disown this vice and tell you that I got the longest barrel of my life this evening--no lie! I didn't expect much out of the session when I drove up to MiniCon and the lineup was empty. Sat there a while checkin' it when a sneaker set came through and got my ass in gear. Surfed it by myself for 2 hrs, and it just kept getting better and better as the sun moved towards the cloudy horizon. The waves were jacking right up and the better sets were shoulder to headhigh and far from mushy they were kinda hollow and very fast. Saw a two wave set coming in from the horizon and paddled for the second and bigger wave, made a steeper than expected drop and pulled in for my longest cover up ever...it just kept going and holding up and going and and I rode it from the green monster almost to the hotel, kicking out over the lip with a loud YEAAAAAAH! Think I'll be riding that high for weeks to come. Of course there was nobody out to corroborate my feat and I felt a little like the tree falling in the solitary woods trying to make some noise...but noise I made!
Had a great day yesterday. Got in at this little point on my way to Ventura and got it good- well better than expected. Definitely a wind swell but some fun rides as the waves jacked right up on the monster (what i've been calling the hungry seaweed covered rock lying right inside the takeoff spot). Fun. The Land Of Plenty artshow rocked out and I have to give some big THANK YOUs to all of you who donated art and supported the cause. Found some fun little rides this pm at armpits. Great day!
I hate to double post, but you should all be making your way towards Ventura this evening...and celebrating with us at the Buenaventura Artshow at the Red Brick Gallery in downtown Ventura, CA (315 E. Main Street, from 7 to 11pm). There will be music by Mr. Dope America, drinks provided by Nectar Ales, surf/skate films, and a bounty of art, photos, prints, and handpainted skateboards by some of your favorite artists and local students. Come by and support!
No waves were had today. Wish I were back in Big Sur...definitely the biggest surf I've had this winter. Here is a shot from our first evening, after making camp and checking the evening glassoff.
Got up early to check G-land and nada, nothing at the Queen either, so settled on a mid-afternoon hike up to Inspiration Pt...Santa Barbara is silent and at peace at those heights. Thought of this quote by Ralph Waldo Emerson- "Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air". Seemed fitting for this SB lifestyle. Maybe we'll get a little swell this weekend.
"...And hope does not disappoint us"...Was in Ventucky this pm and with a burrito in hand went to the water to watch the chaos. It is the surfer's spirit that allows us to hope a little hope that we might find a secluded cove and a head high peeler, even when we know it's blowing 30 knots and we're headed to a well known not-so-secluded break.
Surf's been great these last couple days and I somehow find myself just wanting more...one friend got the longest shakage she's ever gotten at the Queen while another friend got a local point all to himself this morning at shoulder high...surfed north this pm and found some fun ones in a leeward cove, the clouds opened up right as we were changing and in no time we were soaked and full of smiles. Just got the invite for a Cabo surf trip and just can't say no, so am off in a couple of weeks to warm waters and hopefully some quality surf.
Come party with us this saturday in Ventura...plenty of cool art will be on silent auction, beer will flow and the Malloys have donated the use of their film One Track Mind to get you all to roll up...tell your friends, bring your peeps and see you there!
Wonderful to play all day with great ol'friends. Surfed Secrets this morning on the high tide and had some clean fast lefts...it seems to be the go-to spot whenever I am in SD. Spent some time on the cliffs above Blacks getting the bird's eye view...sunset session at T's on longboards. Feels like summervacation. yeah yeeeeeaaahh!
Somehow found a little surf this afternoon at RoadsEnd, fun times and warm water...really starting to feel like summer. Here's a shot from yesterday's surf check...
"Singin sweet songs...Of melodies pure and true,...Sayin, this is my message to you-ou-ou...................Singin: dont worry (dont worry) bout a thing,...cause every little thing gonna be all right!...." -Bob Marley
Was surfing this spot this pm when out of nowhere a grey whale breached completely out of the water and landed with the biggest of splashes...it was close enough for us to smell it's fishy breath. In retrospect it was quite an awe-inspiring event, but in those first few seconds of its leap into the air, I was certain a monster had risen from the deep to devour the entire line-up.
Was pleasantly surprised to find these little ankle snappers this evening. Took this shot and jumped in...water was warmish and I surfed 'til dark. Fun to be in the pacific ocean, it really centers my being.
My first car was a '69 cherry red bug..and there is something about this surf rig that is quite romantic. Not in the lets-hold-hands-and-whisper-sweet-nothings kind of way, but in the all-we-need-are-a-couple-of-boards-and-the-open-road sort of romance. It screams independence and free-spirits, and is the latest addition to the SurfRigs photo project. Time to hit the open road...
I've come to realize that some of my favorite people are other's black sheep...conformity is far from a necessity and it is often those that fall furthest from the familial or societal tree that are the most interesting. Not much in the way of surf today, but still got in this evening. The small glassy peelers were supplemented by good company and new friends. Was invited a little while back on a trip to JBay in June. At first I put it off as too expensive, but I am in serious need of some quality surf and, as of late, have been daydreaming about Africa...maybe it's time to go back. Check out the smile on that guy!
Just a quick post to say that if you haven't tried yoga yet, you should, your surfboard will thank you (for all the dope new tricks and aerials you'll be able to do). I started doing yoga this past summer and was told to give it 4 to 6 weeks (assuming you go at least once a week) and I'd be a different person. Sure enough I am hooked and now practice yoga about 4 times a week...so give it a shot!
Went down the road this afternoon for some waves. Got there right as the after-work crowd was showing up and by the looks of the way-more-full-than-it-should-be parking lot, it looked like everybody's favorite break was really going off...ran down to the beach to check it and take some photos and actually laughed out loud...only about waist high and lots of heads bobbing in the water. Sat on the sand, watched and took some mediocre shots. After taking this photo and talking some friends into getting in, I decided it was time to get wet and kook it up with the rest of the crowd. Within 30minutes of getting in, however, the crowd thinned right out and the evening glass off helped pick things up. A surprisingly fun session full of smiles and fun little rides. Got a text message while I was in the water that read along the lines of "you reaaaallly misssed it, you should have been here yesterday"...in other words, those of you who were lucky enough to dawn patrol it this morning really got it good.
Here's a shot to match the echoeing memories of a great weekend spent in pursuit of surf and adventure.
Swell picked up overnight with the wind...the bay messy and closed out at way overhead. Spent some time on the cliffs watching the surf, then packed up the Number Two and headed back south towards home. Really enjoyed the drive, we live in a pretty incredibly pretty state.
Woke up early this morning with a long walk to the cove for a surf check. A bay full of head-high+ peaks, nobody out and a morning full of hopes. Excited to spend some time going left! Suited up and jumped in with Mr. SkeetSkeet, Mrs. Turbo and El'Spencito. A half-mile paddle out through crystal clear water full of ice cream headaches and we were in the money. Super steep drops and some of the fastest waves I've seen in a long time...I had a great session. Spent the rest of the day celebrating life with beer, food, games and laughter.
Surfed rincon this morning...nice and glassy, waist high and super fun...then went home and met up with the SD folk, we loaded up the Number Two (of Siestas y Olas fame) and headed north to find surf. They left SD yesterday but were slowed by a flat tire...and sure enough, an hour up the road, blow-out number two. Having no spare tire we were stuck, called AAA and hung out on this country road for a while just shootin' the shit. The adventure was off to a splendid start.